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H22 90 Accord Blue Smoke .. HELP !

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    H22 90 Accord Blue Smoke .. HELP !

    I have a 1990 Honda Accord with an H22A . Got my transmission rebuilt last week and the guy who did it said I needed a new coil and distributor as well . My idle had been bouncing up and down for some time now but when I picked up the car from him I noticed the idle was bouncy but also rough . I didn't pay it much mind . Drove the car for about two days and it cut off on me when coming to a complete stop a few times . The oil light would flash and then the car would shut off . Paid that not much mind , I had a road trip planned the next day . Drove the car to Atlanta (about 300 miles from where I live) and it made it there just fine . Gas mileage was horrible though . Had to fill up after about 250 miles .. and I have the H2U5 tranny ! I hit VTEC after driving around in Atlanta and after that , every time I went to come to a complete stop or mashed the clutch to downshift , the oil light would flash and the car would shut off or I would have to raise the RPM for it to stay on . The next day , the smoke started . It's blue smoke and it's heavy at idle and during acceleration . Drove the car back home , made it back fine , just wasn't capable of holding its speed while going up the hills on the highway . Changed the spark plugs after I got back and they all were fine except for one . Cylinder 3's spark plug was cluddered with oil . Put a new set in and the car idles a little better , and drives a little better but still lots of smoke and rough driving . Haven't drove the car since . Can anyone give me any input on what may fix this ???? I know its not the plugs or the valve cover gasket because none of the spark plug wires were wet on the tip , just one plug was smudged with oil on the bottom end . Was thinking a dead cylinder but I've had one of those with another CB and it drove MUCH worse than how this one is driving now . HELP PLEASE !

    #2
    Gosh, sorry to hear your troubles. I would get it compression tested. Try the ghetto way first by removing one of the spark tubes one at a time. If you don't get any drop in performance then you got a problem in that cylinder.

    You may have a partially dead cylinder.
    Last edited by Mishakol129; 10-10-2012, 10:12 PM.
    “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
    ― Jeremy Clarkson




    Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


    Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

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      #3
      if its smoking blue then its leaking oil into the cylinder, so that either means; piston rings, valve seals or a head gasket.. and probability in that order since it smokes still after its warmed.

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        #4
        ok the most common answers I'm getting are piston rings and valve seals . I doutb it's the head gasket because the car doesn't overheat , there's no white smoke , and the oil looks fine . Any ideas on how much it would cost to replace the piston rings / valve seals ? I know the parts are inexpensive on ebaymotors .

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          #5
          H22's typically burn oil because of the FRM, be careful you are not chasing an issue you can't resolve cheaply or easily. Compression and leakdown test results?
          Last edited by wildBill83; 10-11-2012, 02:02 PM.

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            #6
            having those done Monday .

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              #7
              FRM cylinders do not "Typically" burn enough oil to emit blue smoke at idle and under acceleration.




              OP - Do a cylinder leak down test, Something is wrong with (Going on your description) #3 cylinder.
              Only a leak down will help you find the issue.


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                #8
                yeah I'm taking it to have those done tomorrow . Really hoping I won't have to rebuild the entire engine .

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                  #9
                  OP you have a broken ringland on piston #3, but a severe break
                  the more you drive it the worse it will get
                  get your pockets ready, because this wont be a cheap one

                  hone block-$400-$500
                  pistons-$150
                  HG-$75
                  rings-$40
                  gasket kit-$100

                  in reality you are better off getting another motor
                  a jdmh22 you can find for $900+
                  a h22a4 from a good jy will be $500+

                  and you can make some of that money back, selling the head out of yours and other salvageable parts

                  rebuilding it takes money, especially to do it right
                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  Just do what PR CB7 said.

                  "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

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                    #10
                    I'll probably just go ahead and rebuild the block to OEM specs if that needs to be done . I'd rather do that than to get another motor and not know what you're getting .

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by PR CB7 View Post
                      OP you have a broken ringland on piston #3
                      You sound so sure. Could just as easily be a valve guide(s), another very common fault with any high-mileage engine.

                      Accord Aero-R

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                        #12
                        I'm REALLY hoping it's nothing tooo serious . Will have a definite answer for you guys tomorrow , if not then definitely tuesday .

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
                          You sound so sure. Could just as easily be a valve guide(s), another very common fault with any high-mileage engine.
                          Yeah or just a burnt valve. The rings and pistons don't go bad in accords unless you modify your car with turbo or nox.
                          “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
                          ― Jeremy Clarkson




                          Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
                          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


                          Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

                          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
                            Yeah or just a burnt valve. The rings and pistons don't go bad in accords unless you modify your car with turbo or nox.
                            So false it's not even funny. Any moving part will wear and tear, taking care of your engine ofcourse lengthens it's life.

                            It's nitrous btw NOS is a brand.

                            OP a leak down as evil stated is where you should start.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
                              The rings and pistons don't go bad in accords unless you modify your car with turbo or nox.
                              www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=185571

                              You are so full of shit, it's not funny anymore, it's ridiculous. You should refrain from giving anyone else any sort of technical advice.
                              Last edited by dj_ender; 10-14-2012, 02:02 AM.
                              Originally posted by Mishakol129
                              Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

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