I have a 1990 Honda Accord with an H22A . Got my transmission rebuilt last week and the guy who did it said I needed a new coil and distributor as well . My idle had been bouncing up and down for some time now but when I picked up the car from him I noticed the idle was bouncy but also rough . I didn't pay it much mind . Drove the car for about two days and it cut off on me when coming to a complete stop a few times . The oil light would flash and then the car would shut off . Paid that not much mind , I had a road trip planned the next day . Drove the car to Atlanta (about 300 miles from where I live) and it made it there just fine . Gas mileage was horrible though . Had to fill up after about 250 miles .. and I have the H2U5 tranny ! I hit VTEC after driving around in Atlanta and after that , every time I went to come to a complete stop or mashed the clutch to downshift , the oil light would flash and the car would shut off or I would have to raise the RPM for it to stay on . The next day , the smoke started . It's blue smoke and it's heavy at idle and during acceleration . Drove the car back home , made it back fine , just wasn't capable of holding its speed while going up the hills on the highway . Changed the spark plugs after I got back and they all were fine except for one . Cylinder 3's spark plug was cluddered with oil . Put a new set in and the car idles a little better , and drives a little better but still lots of smoke and rough driving . Haven't drove the car since . Can anyone give me any input on what may fix this ???? I know its not the plugs or the valve cover gasket because none of the spark plug wires were wet on the tip , just one plug was smudged with oil on the bottom end . Was thinking a dead cylinder but I've had one of those with another CB and it drove MUCH worse than how this one is driving now . HELP PLEASE !
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H22 90 Accord Blue Smoke .. HELP !
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Gosh, sorry to hear your troubles. I would get it compression tested. Try the ghetto way first by removing one of the spark tubes one at a time. If you don't get any drop in performance then you got a problem in that cylinder.
You may have a partially dead cylinder.Last edited by Mishakol129; 10-10-2012, 10:12 PM.“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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ok the most common answers I'm getting are piston rings and valve seals . I doutb it's the head gasket because the car doesn't overheat , there's no white smoke , and the oil looks fine . Any ideas on how much it would cost to replace the piston rings / valve seals ? I know the parts are inexpensive on ebaymotors .
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H22's typically burn oil because of the FRM, be careful you are not chasing an issue you can't resolve cheaply or easily. Compression and leakdown test results?Last edited by wildBill83; 10-11-2012, 02:02 PM.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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FRM cylinders do not "Typically" burn enough oil to emit blue smoke at idle and under acceleration.
OP - Do a cylinder leak down test, Something is wrong with (Going on your description) #3 cylinder.
Only a leak down will help you find the issue.
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OP you have a broken ringland on piston #3, but a severe break
the more you drive it the worse it will get
get your pockets ready, because this wont be a cheap one
hone block-$400-$500
pistons-$150
HG-$75
rings-$40
gasket kit-$100
in reality you are better off getting another motor
a jdmh22 you can find for $900+
a h22a4 from a good jy will be $500+
and you can make some of that money back, selling the head out of yours and other salvageable parts
rebuilding it takes money, especially to do it right
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You sound so sure. Could just as easily be a valve guide(s), another very common fault with any high-mileage engine.Originally posted by PR CB7 View PostOP you have a broken ringland on piston #3
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Yeah or just a burnt valve. The rings and pistons don't go bad in accords unless you modify your car with turbo or nox.Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostYou sound so sure. Could just as easily be a valve guide(s), another very common fault with any high-mileage engine.“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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So false it's not even funny. Any moving part will wear and tear, taking care of your engine ofcourse lengthens it's life.Originally posted by Mishakol129 View PostYeah or just a burnt valve. The rings and pistons don't go bad in accords unless you modify your car with turbo or nox.
It's nitrous btw NOS is a brand.
OP a leak down as evil stated is where you should start.
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www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=185571Originally posted by Mishakol129 View PostThe rings and pistons don't go bad in accords unless you modify your car with turbo or nox.
You are so full of shit, it's not funny anymore, it's ridiculous. You should refrain from giving anyone else any sort of technical advice.Last edited by dj_ender; 10-14-2012, 02:02 AM.Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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