So a while back I noticed my guage was acting a little funny, taking it a little longer to start moving, staying "warm" after the car was off for a certain period of time, etc.. Eventually it stopped working all together and has not moved from just a little above cold since. So I figured the sending unit went bad, I went to replaced and went hulk mode and broke it off. I wound up having to bring it to the shop to have it taken out, I got frustrated with it and didn't want to mess with it anymore. Anyways, there about to put the new one in but he said this will not fix my guage. According to the mechanic he said that that the sending unit has power and when he grounded it out the guage never moved so something has to be wrong with the guage itself. Has anyone else had this issue? What could be causing this? I'm hoping its not a fried spot on the cluster cause I'm wanting to be able to keep my original cluster in the car, and I'm not the best at soldering.
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I had problems with a fuel gauge and the temperature gauge in my wagon, as well as a corroded area on the printed circuit board. You could check your printed circuit board, and if good, try swapping the just the gauge within your cluster. I have several clusters in various states of disassembly; I grab clusters on my junk yard runs looking for ones with uncorroded boards.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by F22Chris View PostMine acts funny too. It never goes to the middle where it's supposed to be, it's always a little below it. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and now it reads even cooler. I was thinking my car was running rich with it always low like that.Last edited by BreckAConner; 05-05-2015, 09:11 AM.
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Actually if you can get your gauge cluster out this is not hard at all. Go to the junk yard find an exact matching cluster before buying it check for any burn-corroded marks on the circuit board by unscrewing the back white cover. Then if its good you unscrew all the screws-unplug all connectors from both of them and transfer once you get into the gauge cluster its pretty visible what you have to do just be very careful with the little wires and you should probably swap the bulbs from one to another if all of your lights were working.
One suggestion if you do this label every screw because there's many to be mixed up and take it easy on the trim piece lol you'll need a long magnetized screw driver Phillips a short one for under the radio and a really small glasses type flat head to pop all the buttons. I thought it was hard and scary to do til I did it a few times lol it just takes times and patients unless you wanna break something on your dash ahahah.Last edited by Kev1990; 05-05-2015, 09:01 AM.
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Originally posted by BreckAConner View PostI found out mine on my current CB the temp gauge sender wasn't screwed all the way into the head when I was checking to see what was wrong with it one day. As soon as I screwed the sucker in where it was supposed to be it fixed my issue with reading colder than it should. My first CB had your issue and I just replaced it.
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Originally posted by Kev1990 View PostActually if you can get your gauge cluster out this is not hard at all. Go to the junk yard find an exact matching cluster before buying it check for any burn-corroded marks on the circuit board by unscrewing the back white cover. Then if its good you unscrew all the screws-unplug all connectors from both of them and transfer once you get into the gauge cluster its pretty visible what you have to do just be very careful with the little wires and you should probably swap the bulbs from one to another if all of your lights were working.
One suggestion if you do this label every screw because there's many to be mixed up and take it easy on the trim piece lol you'll need a long magnetized screw driver Phillips a short one for under the radio and a really small glasses type flat head to pop all the buttons. I thought it was hard and scary to do til I did it a few times lol it just takes times and patients unless you wanna break something on your dash ahahah.
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Lol grab the whole dam cluster it should cost you 15-25 if that make sure you check for burn marks like I said. You took apart the cluster is what your saying and just took the temperature gauge? Most likely if you look at your current cluster you will find burn marks on the circuit board around the area that's not working. Try to find one that's exactly the same year as yours. A while back I bought a 91 ACCORD auto cluster thinking it would fit a 90 Auto nope they are not interchangeable by years at least for the automatics LOL. But in a way they are because you can swap out the circuit boards.Last edited by Kev1990; 05-07-2015, 09:51 AM.
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Originally posted by Kev1990 View PostLol grab the whole dam cluster it should cost you 15-25 if that make sure you check for burn marks like I said. You took apart the cluster is what your saying and just took the temperature gauge? Most likely if you look at your current cluster you will find burn marks on the circuit board around the area that's not working. Try to find one that's exactly the same year as yours. A while back I bought a 91 ACCORD auto cluster thinking it would fit a 90 Auto nope they are not interchangeable by years at least for the automatics LOL. But in a way they are because you can swap out the circuit boards.
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