Freshagen : 1991 Accord LX

[SanJoCaF22DrAcc]

Next step would be to grab wire diagram and a volt meter and start tracing back all the wires from the Dizzy. Good luck bro.

[hondamanf22]

crossing fingers for you bro. car and engine bay look awesome
going to get mine done some time in the future.

[Freshagen]

Grounds seem ok.

Now my next duggestion is to run your stock battery harness, 4ga maybe to small to carry the current ro the starter

My engine cranks over fine though. I can try it with the battery closer.

Next step would be to grab wire diagram and a volt meter and start tracing back all the wires from the Dizzy. Good luck bro.

bout to take the multimeter to the harness. I have my fingers crossed too.

crossing fingers for you bro. car and engine bay look awesome
going to get mine done some time in the future.

thanks. now only if it worked...

[408cb7]

I hope you get her to start bro, double check all the sensors to make sure they are all cannected on the right spots, thats what happened when I did my swap, I connected them on the wrong spots lol

[SanJoCaF22DrAcc]

You and inspired just stuck. WTH, we should all just do a loop around the bay and help everyone get the cars going.

[Freshagen]

i knoww.. freakin bullshit. I'll get her running tho! if i die trying lol. if this doesnt work. I'll give up on cars altogether and ride motorcycles. lol cb7 or nothing at all.

[Straight Success]

Nice and clean. Just like I like 'um. Keep it looking beautiful.

[h22cb719]

do you have a testlight? Connect ONLY the ground or - side of the test light to a ground, and probe the + side of the coil, it should pulse. If not, the ignitor or ICM is bad and needs to be replaced, so long as it has power to it, key on engine off. Also, have you verified the fuel pump is priming when you turn the key on? another common problem is the main relay going bad. Its located under the dash on the drivers side of the car, on the left side of the steering column, just forward of the fuse panel. Try tapping that with a skrewdriver as you crank it (only if you havent verified the fuel pump is running with the key on, and you have no fuel).

sry if thats already been mentioned, LOT of pages to read through...

[SPLCB7]

Wheres your battery grounded? One time my car wouldnt start becuse of an bad batt ground.....you should ground it out to your rear strut tower....

[Freshagen]

Nice and clean. Just like I like 'um. Keep it looking beautiful.

TY

do you have a testlight? Connect ONLY the ground or - side of the test light to a ground, and probe the + side of the coil, it should pulse. If not, the ignitor or ICM is bad and needs to be replaced, so long as it has power to it, key on engine off. Also, have you verified the fuel pump is priming when you turn the key on? another common problem is the main relay going bad. Its located under the dash on the drivers side of the car, on the left side of the steering column, just forward of the fuse panel. Try tapping that with a skrewdriver as you crank it (only if you havent verified the fuel pump is running with the key on, and you have no fuel).

sry if thats already been mentioned, LOT of pages to read through...

The ignitor is getting power at the - and + ends. I used a test speaker and it chirps. I'm gonna try wiring in an msd blaster to make sure its absolutely not my dizzy. I've been going back and forth between grounds and the dizzy trying to get her started.

Wheres your battery grounded? One time my car wouldnt start becuse of an bad batt ground.....you should ground it out to your rear strut tower....

I'm grounded to the post under the rear tail light but I sanded it down first. should I reground to the shock tower? where was your's grounded when it wouldn't start?

[h22cb719]

The ignitor is getting power at the - and + ends. I used a test speaker and it chirps. I'm gonna try wiring in an msd blaster to make sure its absolutely not my dizzy. I've been going back and forth between grounds and the dizzy trying to get her started.

when you say it chirps, does it pulse? the ignitor is supposed to pulse the signal to the coil, which then fires the coil. if your coil isnt getting the signal to pulse, it wont fire. having power to the ignitor is a good thing, but like I said it should pulse, which is why I recommended the test light and checking at the coil. Have you ohmed the coil as well to see if its within spec?? If I remember correctly it shouldhave no more than 5ohms... Reference your haynes/chilton/google/FAQ to make certain though...

[Freshagen]

when you say it chirps, does it pulse? the ignitor is supposed to pulse the signal to the coil, which then fires the coil. if your coil isnt getting the signal to pulse, it wont fire. having power to the ignitor is a good thing, but like I said it should pulse, which is why I recommended the test light and checking at the coil. Have you ohmed the coil as well to see if its within spec?? If I remember correctly it shouldhave no more than 5ohms... Reference your haynes/chilton/google/FAQ to make certain though...

I was checking at the negative and the positive connections, getting steady power at both places with key turned to run.


At which points in the dizzy SHOULD I be checking for pulse? at the spring of the coil? at connections on the ignition module?

and yes I had it resistance checked and it's within spec according to the sercvice manual

[SanJoCaF22DrAcc]

Damn I wish you could make this meet @ Heather Farms today, bro. Your almost there. Talk about nerve wreaking.

[Freshagen]

i knoww bro... hurtt ://// I hella wanted go

[h22cb719]

it should pulse on the positive side of the coil while you're cranking it. It'll take a second set of hands or a handheld starter button to check. Like I said, if it isnt pulsing the coil wont fire...

Also, was this car origionally an internal or external coil car? It may be possible the signal wires to the coil we re-pinned backwards?