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I have found Enkei Hub Caps (I think) on my steelies online a long time ago. The car in back is mine and you may see silver/chrome looking things on the wheels. Those are what I have now.
You are welcome!! DCB7!!
I hope the fan functioned as it supposed be functioning.
The photo came out pretty good.
Yep, yes it did. Even though the sensor came of the harness from another car right? It works perfectly.
I know i wasnt getting the boiling water in the reservoir yesterday, but earlier I made it idle and watched it till it came on. Changes my whole driving experience now Engine che ck light is off with new O2 sensor also
A/C work is going to be a little more involved along with need/recommended for some new parts.
Let me know when you want have that taken care of.
Well I already got the High pressure switch (I think its called), the one that goes to the switch that was jumped. And Im assuming the radiator is good, since the coolant temp sensor works, and the cooling fan takes long to come on, so Ill just get the condenser fan instead of whole assembly.
Ill install those, so the only thing left will be to get the moisture out of the system like you said, and Ill start pricing free on. I should have it in a week or two
Of course I would appreciate your help again You know I need it
I hope your system is in positive pressure with Freon, still. If not, you may be looking at replacing receiver/dryer as well. In order to avoid/minimize air entering the system, you wanna hold off on replacing that switch till we are good to do the work.
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I did oil change today. The oil pressure warning light has been flickering on at idle speed when hot. So I got curious about switching pressure of existing pressure switch.
I got new one from NAPA.
Switching pressure on this switch is 3 psi. If I still see the warning light flickers, I am in real trouble with this engine.
The old one was from Advance Auto and switching pressure is 7 psi.
This filter came with purchase of a jug of oil from Advance Auto. I think this filter is pretty good as far as construction is concerned. Much better than a name brand with orange paint.
I bought this .50 oversized block last year. The guy said it has only about 500 miles since rebuild. He didn't go in detail of why it was removed from his car. The oil didn't contain any metal flakes, so I took the chance.
Today, I lifted my heavy ass to explore how it is. I tell you, this is a professionally botched rebuild engine as far as I can tell.
The shop that did this rebuild was sponsored by Loctite, I think. Way too much of their products are used throughout. Rod end caps falls out with a little wiggle, usually. Not this one.
Oil must have been leaking from aft seal.
Don't they pay attention to debris and stuff?
Do you think the rod is bent on this cylinder?
I think I will have bores up to 86 mm to take off those scoring and scuffing.
Now, who makes and sells 86 mm piston and rings for F22A1? Other than Bisimoto?
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I am thinking of getting K20A3 pistons now. Since, no turbo is in the future, I think OE pistons will do, OK. Re-bushing on small ends should be done with relative ease at an engine shop.
Removing screws was challenging on this pump. The previous installer may have used "red Loctite" on this one just as all other screws he/she did. Used impact wrench to remove screws. Used my foot to secure the pump while I strike the impact. That is why there's a foot print. Three of them needed heat (torch) to remove. This one was a bugger the most.
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