fleetw00d : 1990 Accord LX

[Raf99]

Doc (and my nurse wife) think some/a lot of the pain could be pinched nerves in my back, hence the MRI of that in addition to the hip. Probably isn't good that I continue to lift heavy objects (like an automatic transmission).

The cup holder bottom was done with a scrap of vinyl left over from when I had the shifter boot made.

So you just glued it down, wrapped around the bottom? I may steal your idea....

[Fleetw00d]

Doc (and my nurse wife) think some/a lot of the pain could be pinched nerves in my back, hence the MRI of that in addition to the hip. Probably isn't good that I continue to lift heavy objects (like an automatic transmission).

The cup holder bottom was done with a scrap of vinyl left over from when I had the shifter boot made.

[Raf99]

X-ray didn't show an obvious reason for pain, which persists. MRI of hip and back on 9/24.

Which implies muscle or tendon related. Got ice, massage gun, heat ?
(source = life time of chronic neck / back pain)

Hey on the earlier pages of this car you did the cup older bottom part red like the doors. Was that done with leather or vinyl or paint?

[Fleetw00d]

X-ray didn't show an obvious reason for pain, which persists. MRI of hip and back on 9/24.

[PakaloloHonda]

Yep, that age thang .. I wish I had a lift ... walk right under and go to work ...
Wishin you a speedy recovery !

[Fleetw00d]

Life (and age) is conspiring against me. I injured my hip about a month ago, several minutes of walking results in excruciating pain when trying to bend or twist my right leg at the hip, regardless of whether I'm using the leg muscles or not. Result: I couldn't get in Ruby to drive her home from a meeting at work yesterday - had to call my wife to come get me - I managed to drive her Pilot home while she drove Ruby (she hates the low, stiff ride, shaking from stiff engine mounts, exhaust leak, ...). This doesn't help my search for another CB; it just adds to the reasons my wife uses to tell me I shouldn't repair Ruby or get another one.

Sorry, just venting. Gonna have to do something relatively soon. Ruby would need tires before winter, needs a B pipe, and now I can't even drive her. Appointment with orthopedic doc next week.

[Fleetw00d]

This Looks ahh... like more work than it's worth. Mine was not near this bad.

What you going to do?

I think start looking for at least a rust free shell.

[Raf99]

In Sally, I had a hole where the rear corner seat belt bolt is. I had a shop gut it all and weld pieces in etc. They re-enforced the rear jack points and did rear wheel wells. That whole area on our cars = cancer. Job was close to $4500.

This Looks ahh... like more work than it's worth. Mine was not near this bad.

What you going to do?

[Fleetw00d]

Posted these same pictures in the "Rescuing Ruby" thread because this relates to the long term life of the repair. Just shy of 386,000.
Big hole in the frame box (right side), spring seat badly rusted (left side), quarters really bad again, maybe some above the rear cross member. I'm not sure I can convince myself to try to repair this - just drive until something lets go? I've started looking for something to maybe swap my drive train and suspension (such as it is) into. My wife is pushing hard for me to get out of CB7s altogether (does not consider them safe).

20200629_181441 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20200629_185745 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20200629_190644 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

[Fleetw00d]

Hole saw came in the other day; I was able to cut and install a ballistic rubber torque mount insert. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=211886 I installed that and a new Innovative rear mount this evening; the engine doesn't budge when engaging the clutch. The holes in the mount didn't quite match the holes in the cross member; I had some difficulty getting them to line up enough to install the bolts. I should have done this long ago, I think all the flexing has hastened the failure of my flex pipe.

20200416_212048_resized by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

April 17, 2020: First test drive with new mounts; they certainly transmit more vibration to the rest of the car. Concerning thing was the smell of hot rubber after parking it. I'll have to check with the ballistic rubber manufacturer about its temperature capability.

[Fleetw00d]

Closing on 384,500 miles. Getting a idle oscillation after releasing the brakes; idle drops low enough sometimes to shut the engine down just as you're trying to engage the clutch. Booster and IACV both seem to work correctly. More to do; may take tomorrow off work for the Good Friday holiday.

Cleaned the engine just because.

20200408_192521 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

I'm going to have to get a tripod or something - I can't hold my hand still for a photo

April 13, 2020: Idle oscillation was low coolant I think. I had replaced the upper hose the other day (small cut in it) and didn't quite get the system refilled. Bled it and filled it to the top; that seems to have fixed it. While I was in there, the engine rocks forward and back too easily. I think the rear mount is still original (my bad), ordered one from Innovative. I have a filled (Flex Seal liquid) front mount that seems to be separating again. A 2.5 inch hole saw does a good job of cutting all the rubber out. I have a block of ballistic rubber I used to make body mounts for my Ford van. I ordered a 68 mm hole saw (64.7 mm, 2.55 inch inside diameter) I am going to use to cut a solid rubber bushing to install in the torque mount. A one inch hole saw should be just about large enough for the center steel bushing.

[Fleetw00d]

Both my fans were getting noisy; the radiator fan probably has 1/4 inch of play. Replaced both. Finally got to install one of the AC fans I had powder coated.

20191010_194012 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20191010_194003 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

[Grumpys93]

That’s awesome the kid helped you out. My luck, the kid would have kept the bolt or just not cared.

[Jarrett]

An odd series of events that almost never ends that easily.

[Fleetw00d]

Got lucky yesterday (sort of). Driving along and I heard clanging from under the car, pulled over quickly and as I was getting out of the car, a kid from the house I just passed came up to me with a bolt in his hand. Turns out it was the front torque mount bolt. I must have loosened it thinking to remove the nut to give me a little extra room to get the exhaust manifold heat shield off/on when working on the head. He was able to supply a 17 mm socket and ratchet and I was able to reinstall it right there (man, the parts around there are HOT).