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  • G. Wiffington
    replied
    The coupe looks good! Makes me want to go find another CB.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fleetw00d
    replied
    The cat dragged another one home:

    92 EX Rosewood by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

    92 EX auto, 190K. Reportedly needs head gasket (partially disassembled). Has new radiator, brakes, exhaust, newer tires, pretty good interior, some dents and rust.

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I don't know if you can actually call it a purchase, as they decided to not charge me for the work, but my stuff's back from the powder coater's. ESP traction bar (specific parts, anyway... it's all very carefully planned out), oil pan, and rear engine mount.

    Leave a comment:


  • wed3k
    replied
    another mini project, bought it with engine damaged and upon dissection, it only needs a cylinder head. It lost a timing chain guide and stopped one of the camshafts.

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  • F22Chris
    replied
    I want to rub that on my face.

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  • Corweena
    replied
    Technically not a new purchase....but I did get a few of my FFC goodies chrome plated. First batch of a small pile of stuff that will be chromed in the engine bay when the H swap goes in. I also already have chromed AC and Alternator brackets, and will be getting the PS bracket done too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Size9zombie
    replied
    Originally posted by GhostAccord View Post
    I have never used the single cut "Non Ferrous" ones yet. How do you find they work?

    Have you ever tried the double cut carbide burrs? I've been using the same DC carbide set on aluminum for 15 years now and they show no signs of wear. Well worth the extra money. Only thing you really have to watch out for is that they remove non ferrous material very quickly.

    I have some double cut burrs, they work great! they are not long like these, the single cuts are made for non ferrous metals the double for harder stuff. my other non ferrous burrs where from Northern Tool and lasted a long....long time. They were short shank though, and I wanted some longer ones, make porting MUCH easier. The single cut like these won't gum up with non ferrous like the double cut burrs are prone to.

    Leave a comment:


  • GhostAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by Size9zombie View Post




    My cheap set I had for years finally wore out, so I bit the bullet and got these. Lifetime warranty!
    I have never used the single cut "Non Ferrous" ones yet. How do you find they work?

    Have you ever tried the double cut carbide burrs? I've been using the same DC carbide set on aluminum for 15 years now and they show no signs of wear. Well worth the extra money. Only thing you really have to watch out for is that they remove non ferrous material very quickly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Size9zombie
    replied




    My cheap set I had for years finally wore out, so I bit the bullet and got these. Lifetime warranty!

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Got some cloth 05-06 seats for the RSX, because I hate my stiff and torn leather 02-04s. They're dirty as hell, but I figure for $50 they're worth seeing if I can save them. They're not black, like I wanted for my eventual interior conversion, but they'll match what I've got now. They even both fit in the trunk without blocking an inch of space in the rear-view mirror!



    Leave a comment:


  • F22Chris
    replied
    Yeah. That’s what I did on my Trans Am wheels, Jesse. The clear was almost brown. So I used that gel, let it sit for 30, pressure washed, reapplied for stubborn parts near the valve & lip, and just polished the hell out of it best I could. I used a wire brush with plastic bristles too.

    Edit: wear gloves because that stuff WILL give you chemical burns on bare skin.

    Leave a comment:


  • Crankshaft
    replied
    Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
    I tried a heavy duty gel stripper - if you let it dry up (didn't get back to it for a while), should the paint still be loosened up?

    Back in the 1980's, I rigged up a stripping tank using a hot lye solution (steel stand alone sink with a space heater under it), it did well on steel parts, but it would destroy aluminum.
    Not dry completely, i have let it sit for about 10 minutesand scrub with a brush to loosen up paint; then reaply if needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fleetw00d
    replied
    I tried a heavy duty gel stripper - if you let it dry up (didn't get back to it for a while), should the paint still be loosened up?

    Back in the 1980's, I rigged up a stripping tank using a hot lye solution (steel stand alone sink with a space heater under it), it did well on steel parts, but it would destroy aluminum.

    Leave a comment:


  • AccordWarrior
    replied
    Originally posted by Bunta View Post
    Aircraft paint remover will take it off no problem.
    Back in college my friend cleaned / degreased / used aircraft stripper on a valve cover in his dorm room shower. Completely and totally terrible, but it worked well.

    He built a powder-coating oven with cement board and the guts from a toaster oven and had a cheap Craftsman powder-coating kit. The end results were quite good.

    Leave a comment:


  • bassrock234
    replied
    I agree, aircraft remover should remove factory paint no problem. Although, the gel type stuff seems to work better than the aerosol if you can find it.

    Leave a comment:

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