DBSharp's Turbo Fabrication thread.

[Gtseviper]

when you say a compression test at WOT...do I press the accelrator before I do it

When I did the compression test...I didn't press the accelrator or turn the fuel injectors off

I'm going to runn another test tomorrow

[dbsharp]

when you say a compression test at WOT...do I press the accelrator before I do it

When I did the compression test...I didn't press the accelrator or turn the fuel injectors off

I'm going to runn another test tomorrow

check compression at wide open throttle with no fuel.

[gdout90accord]

150 accross is low but i think you didnt do it right bro!

heres how i do mine
unplug the harness for the dizzy
step on the gas WOT
then crank it 6-8sec

[Gtseviper]

I did the compression today with no fuel and wide open throttle..still 150 psi...ughhhhh...I'm start preparing my other block..so when I pull the head off I'm going to well the drain holes shot as well

[Gtseviper]

before I give the machine shop to do hone my block...could I give them my new piston rings since the pistons are currently in my engine

[dbsharp]

If you want to trust them to gap them and handle the rings correctly then yea sure give it to em! I don't trust a machine shop with anything I don't have too personally.

[Gtseviper]

oh no...they are sure as well not gapping it for me...I will be doing that myself..I was just talking about the bore..I just want the block honed professional..I bought a dial bore gauge recently and I can check the bore myself after

I read alot about stuff before I do it..but I know sometimes I over look stuff like break-in prodecure...I just figure since I have a brand new set of rings and a stock unhoned block..I want to give it another shot before I finally decide to make a decision...I'm stubborn on stuff not being the way it should...I fully understand what I need to do now to get the rings to seat correctly within the first 20 miles and you showed me some stuff as well

Do you hone your own blocks?

[dbsharp]

No. I do not hone my own. If I had the time and tools I certainly would though. Don't give the machine shop your rings, they can't do anything with them. I had my block machined to +.001 over 85.5mm should give me around .0035" piston to wall. That also gives a little room for error in case the machinist's tools are off a bit or the piston is a bit too big. I had two machine shops measure my bore and they came up with slightly different numbers....

[Gtseviper]

Do they have to have the pistons at hand?

alright cool...well when I check the other block I was looking at about max a
+.0045 piston to wall clearance if I was to get the cylinders round...I am thankful for all the info I gained from you and all the individual on cb that help include ash on honda-tech...I feel a little better about it now...I have a leak where the holes I plugged...sooo I'm just going to weld the holes and resurface the head....just consider my first build an learning experience...I am going to do it right this time including a much better break-in procedure

[dbsharp]

considering the fact that a teflon coted piston cannot be measured correctly, because your piston to wall clearance is from metal to metal, having the piston in hand should not make any difference. If you take a measurement from the piston and then use that to figure your piston to wall, your measurement will not be correct.

[Gtseviper]

alright D...I pulled the head...and my intake ports...intake runners had oil in them including oil on the valve stems... the exhaust ports were dry...the pistons had oil the top.. .any ideas

[dbsharp]

My advice? Throughly check your valve train and go with the next block and ring set. You should be good if you do that. I know you said it wasn't coming from the turbo so this is all that is left to cause it.




Check out my DIY's
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=160991
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=160994

I re painted my manifold and cured it in the oven properly. This coating better stay on this time!


My fresh painted block!


Now for some lsd damage pics! Fuck OBX and fuck their "Lifetime Warranty"






There used to be 6 washers in the diff......
ALL worm gears have significant wear.
One washer retainer is broken

I can reuse the worm gears by de-burring them but I have to have the broken washer retainer. Lucky for me I have the resources to get shit taken care of. I have submitted a CAD drawing to a local machine shop where this part will be lazer cut and then turned on a lathe, all for free! Washers are no problem to get a hold of.

OBX will not respond to my emails anymore. They only responded to my first email when I ask how to get warranty service. They told me to contact the reseller (Tunatom on ebay), who will not answer the phone or respond to my emails. He appears to be out of business.

I look on the BBB site and OBX has a rating of F! Big surprise. Ill file a complaint with them even though it wont do any good.

[Gtseviper]

Yeah I checked the other block it isn't any different from the one o i have in there...I had 187,000 miles on the other block that I took out my car...I'm sending the valvetrain to the machine shop to do a complete head job....I think I am having problems now because my timing belt at came off while I was driving and a few other times the timing was set right while I had it idling....

man the engine stuff is coming along great...nice manifold and man what the hell is with the lsd....obx..grrrr

you can use 2000 degree paint from the auto parts store and you wouldn't need a oven...mine stays on just fine

[dbsharp]

you can use 2000 degree paint from the auto parts store and you wouldn't need a oven...mine stays on just fine

Read the can. You are supposed to cure it in an oven.

[Gtseviper]

what...cure...forget that...my exhaust heat will cure that bad boy....lol...I'm to lazy to do that anyway....come on d...lol