I'm not getting fuel or spark.

[STREET-SPEC]

First of all im in a rush typing this....

I'm doing my first motor swap and its all back together and turning over when I try to start it but my check engine light isn't lighting up when turned to ACC, but everything worked fine when the last motor blew.

Usually it comes on until the fuel pump kicks off or primed.

I can't hear the fuel pump kick on, I disconnected the fuel like to the manifold and nothing, then I found out I'm not getting spark either, I'm pretty sure every ground is good even for ecu, I tried 2 ecu's and 2 main relays. Nothing.

Will update later... Sorry gotta go to work.

Any help will be appreciated.

[STREET-SPEC]

Bump

[reklipz]

I don't have any input here other than: I think you're on the right track.

The troubleshoot code system needs fixed, so you might as well start there. Find out why the CEL isn't operating as it should; either start probing wires, putting power to the bulb to make sure it isn't burnt out, or look at the ECM itself. I think the '90 and some '91 ECMs have a window with an LED that will flash the code just like the CEL, so you may be in luck there.

Diagnosing that system may be enlightening and give way to the no start issue.

[STREET-SPEC]

Well I have a 93 and 93 ecu but I did the wire thing and no code is coming. I will check the bulb though to make sure it's working.

If you need more info. Let me know. I really don't know what else to say.

[wildBill83]

I don't have any input here other than: I think you're on the right track.

The troubleshoot code system needs fixed, so you might as well start there. Find out why the CEL isn't operating as it should; either start probing wires, putting power to the bulb to make sure it isn't burnt out, or look at the ECM itself. I think the '90 and some '91 ECMs have a window with an LED that will flash the code just like the CEL, so you may be in luck there.

Diagnosing that system may be enlightening and give way to the no start issue.

There is a bulb on the TCU and ABS modules, not ECU in my experience.

OP double check everything you did as far as removal and reinstall went. You need to probe the ECU 12v and accessory wires. Make sure when you turn the ignition the ECU knows it. When you removed the ECU you set it in a safe spot and removed the battery first I assume.

[STREET-SPEC]

One ecu I got from the junkyard and the other is base mapped for a delta cam, both were removed after battery was taken out as far as I know, I will try the one from my brothers cb7. I removed most wiring and I got someone else to take the motor out and install the block with a new clutch and my bro and I did the rest. Is there some kind of ignition switch near the timing belt? Someone said there was and that could be it.

I'm not sure what you mean by probing the wires. I don't know anything about electrical.

Ill try trouble shooting some things Monday when I'm off,

[SOHC-FTW]

Make sure your thermostat grounds (Main ecu) are good an grounded with no breaks in the wires.

[evil_demon_01]

Make sure your thermostat grounds (Main ecu) are good an grounded with no breaks in the wires.

^^ This would be the very First check and most likely cause.

#2 would be the ECU/ECU Basemap.



No fuel AND no spark normally instantly points to a ground problem.
Other wise a main power feed to the fuse box / Check the ECU fuse.

[GhostAccord]

^^x2

No fuel, no spark and no check engine light on ignition rotation would usually point to an ECU or main relay power or ground issue.

Check all of your grounds and make sure that the connections are tight and that the surfaces are clean. Take a piece of emery cloth and scratch up the two contact surfaces. This will ensure that the contacts have good continuity with little to no resistance.

[oyajicool]

When I forgot ECU ground hook up, the CEL was solid on with no engine start.
Since the OP is not seeing the CEL, it is possible the ECU is not getting the juice.

[wildBill83]

Find a friend that has and can use a multimeter and have him check for the presence of 12v on the ECU harness at the ECU. Also make sure your ECU is bolted down to the chassis before you try and start the car.

The lack of a light when you first turn the ignition over is a sign that the ECU is not getting power at all.

Check the fuse if you find no 12v at the ECU, then look for other missing items.

[STREET-SPEC]

Alright, so it was the thermostat ground causing the ecu not to work. I cleaned it up and grounded it, and now I have fuel but something is wrong with the spark. I sat the plug wires on the valve cover one at a time and cranked it. Only cylindr one is getting constant spark and #3 got spark randomly for a second then stopped. Nothing on the other cylinders. The wires worked fine before and I just replaced the cap and rotor button, now I'm going to see what the spark looks like now. But what do I check to see if the coil is getting all the power it needs? Can't I check with a multimeter or something. Ill try new wires too but I thing since only the first wire is getting power, the coil isn't producing enough power. Or could something like the timing be so off, it's not giving spark at the right time? The ecu isn't giving any codes btw.

Thanks for the help with the thermo housing ground, I never would have seen it.

[GhostAccord]

Yes you can test both the coil and the ICM/Ignitor with a multimeter.

Test procedures;

Ignition Coil;


If the coil tests OK, try the ignitor.

Ignitor/ICM;

[STREET-SPEC]

so i switched my distributor and coil with my brothers, and it still doesn't start.

I also noticed when I have it in gear it tries to pull a little while im starting it. what could cause this? this car will be sitting for a year next month.

[accordztech]

Follow the second picture that talks about testing the black yellow wire for voltage. Do this also while cranking. Be carefull you may get bit.

If its in gear your car moves that's normal....cause its in gear and the tranny spins