Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

Your DRL's (if 1991-1993 high beam style) will not work with HIDs because the halogen low beams run at a reduced output. The HID ballasts require full power to operate. Therefore they will either flicker or not operate at all until full power is applied.

If you have a 1990 like my car, where your DRL's are your entire low beam/corner light/tail lights, you should have no problems.

Car looks absolutely fantastic btw.

Hey crazeymikey, I'm just using HID for the low beams.

[AAPOQ]

Klean man, I'm lovin everything.

I'm rockin those same projectors you did for awhile.
They look ok but man they suck for lighting don't they?

[Raf99]

Klean man, I'm lovin everything.

I'm rockin those same projectors you did for awhile.
They look ok but man they suck for lighting don't they?

OMG, words almost cannot explain how much they suck. They look great! But functionally they are the worst. The light out put is horrible and hard to adjust the aim on them. One of them I couldn't adjust as the bolt was stripped. Both left and right I had to re-seal, and the drivers side I did twice. Of course 1 month later it was back to its normal BS. I finally said, enough is enough! This was the pic of the drivers side as it dried in the sunlight after I removed it yesterday. If any n00bs are reading this, do not buy any form of light that looks like this off ebay!

I'm thinking of ripping these apart though for a retrofit.

[AAPOQ]

OMG, words almost cannot explain how much they suck. They look great! But functionally they are the worst. The light out put is horrible and hard to adjust the aim on them. One of them I couldn't adjust as the bolt was stripped. Both left and right I had to re-seal, and the drivers side I did twice. Of course 1 month later it was back to its normal BS. I finally said, enough is enough! This was the pic of the drivers side as it dried in the sunlight after I removed it yesterday. If any n00bs are reading this, do not buy any form of light that looks like this off ebay!


I'm thinking of ripping these apart though for a retrofit.

I haven't had any moisture problems, but my drivers side low beam works sporadically.

And if I'm out on country roads at night I'm screwed. Might as well drive 30 mph even with street lights.

But I'm with, I like the looks of them.

[Raf99]

I haven't had any moisture problems, but my drivers side low beam works sporadically.

And if I'm out on country roads at night I'm screwed. Might as well drive 30 mph even with street lights.

But I'm with, I like the looks of them.

Ya. I had to fix mine in regards to the fitting of the bulb in the casing. The mechanism that holds the lights in (piece of wire/spring) was a POS. I modified mine to hold it tighter.

[Raf99]

Well today was a successful today. Finally got the 8K low beam HIDs working, and I like them Let me know what you think.

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I have some serious aiming to do :P My drivers side light is way off in right field, lol. I feel like I've taken my bumper off 20 times already. Hopefully I can tweak them this weekend.

Aiming needed ...

[AAPOQ]

Ya. I had to fix mine in regards to the fitting of the bulb in the casing. The mechanism that holds the lights in (piece of wire/spring) was a POS. I modified mine to hold it tighter.

Dude I know, I tried fixing my low beam and I dropped the spring bracket and screw into the windshield washer reservoir in the process

[islandhopper]

...Let me know what you think.


...

OUCH...the glare produced by those HIDs in eBay halogen projectors is ridiculous. In that first pic, you shouldn't be getting that kind of glare from that angle. Your lights must be blinding EVERYONE in oncoming traffic...



And your cut-off/beam pattern is wack...

Here's what a real HID projector beam pattern should look like:



Don't get me wrong, bud, your CB is great. I especially love the color and the lip...it just flows well. And im super jealous about that H swap! ...

I just don't like seeing people put super bright HIDs in halogen lights, making them dangerous, just because they look cool. Which, in reality, they don't. Some proper halogen bulbs, even higher wattage bulbs, would be better than blinding everybody with those HIDs.

Just my opinion.

[Raf99]

OUCH...the glare produced by those HIDs in eBay halogen projectors is ridiculous. In that first pic, you shouldn't be getting that kind of glare from that angle. Your lights must be blinding EVERYONE in oncoming traffic...



And your cut-off/beam pattern is wack...

Here's what a real HID projector beam pattern should look like:



Don't get me wrong, bud, your CB is great. I especially love the color and the lip...it just flows well. And im super jealous about that H swap! ...

I just don't like seeing people put super bright HIDs in halogen lights, making them dangerous, just because they look cool. Which, in reality, they don't. Some proper halogen bulbs, even higher wattage bulbs, would be better than blinding everybody with those HIDs.

Just my opinion.

I couldn't agree with you more. Tonight I adjusted the lights to aim down. Down a lot more than what these pics show. But there is still no cut-off which I do not like. But these lights are in OEM casings so even if I go back to the old OEM lights, there would still be no cut-off, am I correct?

edit: I should of posted a pic after I aimed them, oh well. I would say that now the lights are aimed lower than the passenger side light in the above pics, and straight ahead obviously and they are not in ebay projectors, they are in OEM lamps.

[xkjnboix]

thats one big + to jdm headlights is the oem adjustments are so easy with only a screwdriver with your hood popped. glad you lost the ebay onepiecers though. they look good cause they are one piece but the projectors suck so oem ftw. i love the green on this cb too =D

[Raf99]

Ya, I'm going to rip the ebay projectors apart and retrofit them properly like Function>Form is speaking of. He's 100% correct in that if one is going to with HIDs they should be retrofitted so you have a proper cut-off. I like his lights but all I have are projectors laying around so I may do something else. I like what haccord992h did to this ebay projectors - check his page out here ->
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=67167

[islandhopper]

...these lights are in OEM casings so even if I go back to the old OEM lights, there would still be no cut-off, am I correct?

...they are not in ebay projectors, they are in OEM lamps.

I don't understand the question entirely...

The term 'cut-off' refers to a projectors beam pattern that is shielded. The output from a projector is a projected beam of light through an ocular lens and unless shielded, would create a huge beam pattern, high and low. With the shield in place, it 'cuts off' part of that beam so you're not blinding everyone in front of you, creating a 'low-beam' pattern. When the shield is dropped away, the high-beam pattern is visible.

So if you were to switch back to original OEM housing and bulbs, the term 'cut-off' would not apply. You'd simply have high and low beam halogen output. No 'cut-off' would be present.

And when i first saw those pics i could have sworn they were OEM w/HIDs, but there was so much glare i couldn't be sure! So i scoped out most of your MRT to see what headlights you had...my mistake.

Im also glad you ditched the eBay housings...those things just suck donkey dick when it comes to output.

My suggestion, if you really want HIDs, would be to do it the right way and retrofit some decent projectors into any housings of your choice. It can be spendy, so i understand why many people opt not to and just use a PnP kit. But it is well worth the time and money to get it done the right way.


EDIT: You beat me to it! Im glad you've decided to do a real retrofit. You won't regret it!!!

[Raf99]

I don't understand the question entirely...

The term 'cut-off' refers to a projectors beam pattern that is shielded. The output from a projector is a projected beam of light through an ocular lens and unless shielded, would create a huge beam pattern, high and low. With the shield in place, it 'cuts off' part of that beam so you're not blinding everyone in front of you, creating a 'low-beam' pattern. When the shield is dropped away, the high-beam pattern is visible.

So if you were to switch back to original OEM housing and bulbs, the term 'cut-off' would not apply. You'd simply have high and low beam halogen output. No 'cut-off' would be present.

And when i first saw those pics i could have sworn they were OEM w/HIDs, but there was so much glare i couldn't be sure! So i scoped out most of your MRT to see what headlights you had...my mistake.

Im also glad you ditched the eBay housings...those things just suck donkey dick when it comes to output.

My suggestion, if you really want HIDs, would be to do it the right way and retrofit some decent projectors into any housings of your choice. It can be spendy, so i understand why many people opt not to and just use a PnP kit. But it is well worth the time and money to get it done the right way.


EDIT: You beat me to it! Im glad you've decided to do a real retrofit. You won't regret it!!!

I understand now (but still a little confused on how the cutoff shield is physically mounted in the housing)

...Holy shitting monkey balls I just went through your MRT. Sick lights. If anyone reading this wants to see proper HIDs w/ cut-off and nice headlights check out around page 9 of Function>Form MRT. DaM!!

So the cut-off comes from the retrofit itself and not the housing. It should be said that anyone going to HIDs should simply be doing a retrofit, period!
You must of re-sealed those things a million times to get that just perfect. I'm not sure how you adjusted the cut-off specifically (as I read on one of your pages when you adjusted the drivers side), but I'm sure I'll figure it out when I do it myself. I have a set of brand new 4300K HIDs still that I was going to use in fogs when I got some, but ... I can't stop looking at your light output and .... (wipes drool from mouth) now I just may use them for my low beams. Not sure if I'll use the OEM housing or the ebay projector housings yet. (No high beam HIDs for me as I live up north where DRLs are required, and I like the idea of having fog HIDs as well). First I gotta get the $$$ to purchase the retrofits, I may bug ya in the future with some questions if that's alright.

Again, thanx for your input. I appreciate it

[islandhopper]

I understand now (but still a little confused on how the cutoff shield is physically mounted in the housing)

...Holy shitting monkey balls I just went through your MRT. Sick lights. If anyone reading this wants to see proper HIDs w/ cut-off and nice headlights check out around page 9 of Function>Form MRT. DaM!!

So the cut-off comes from the retrofit itself and not the housing. It should be said that anyone going to HIDs should simply be doing a retrofit, period!
You must of re-sealed those things a million times to get that just perfect. I'm not sure how you adjusted the cut-off specifically (as I read on one of your pages when you adjusted the drivers side), but I'm sure I'll figure it out when I do it myself. I have a set of brand new 4300K HIDs still that I was going to use in fogs when I got some, but ... I can't stop looking at your light output and .... (wipes drool from mouth) now I just may use them for my low beams. Not sure if I'll use the OEM housing or the ebay projector housings yet. (No high beam HIDs for me as I live up north where DRLs are required, and I like the idea of having fog HIDs as well). First I gotta get the $$$ to purchase the retrofits, I may bug ya in the future with some questions if that's alright.

Again, thanx for your input. I appreciate it

The cut-off shield is a thin piece of metal controlled by a solenoid inside the projector assembly, behind the lens and in front of the HID bulb.

Here, this page on TRS has a ton of great info and a neat little gif on the right side of the page that shows you, visually, how the cut-off shield actually works.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/trs...projectors.php

Adjustment of the cut-off/beam pattern is relatively complicated. There are horizontal, vertical and rotational variables that need to be compensated for. Rotational is the toughest. With the Morimoto Mini D2S, rotational alignment is set once the projector assembly is mounted to the reflector bowl of the headlights. I got lucky and nailed it the first time, so i never had to re-open my lights to adjust them in that way. Vertical and horizontal alignment is done with the OEM headlight assembly adjustments. The JDM lights are much better for this, since they have the high-beam and low-beam adjustments independent from one another. Allowing you to make minor adjustments to the projector beam without affecting the high-beam reflector bowls aim.


Hope that answers some questions for you. If you need any help whatsoever, feel free to hit me up. I'd love to help.

And thanks for the compliments, bud, i really appreciate it.

[1990[H]accordex]

wow.....i finally found out who u r lol, seen u rippin through nish like 2 weeks ago, i'm from guysborough county, seen ur car couple times, i must say i'm in lov wit it lol, btw check out my ride whenever u get the chance, oh and keep doin wat ur doin i like