Well, I do have a water/meth injection kit on Lola with the supercharger went with a Snow setup. But pretty sure I bent a rod due to a lifted coil, and since buying a house, have no time to work on that project.
Looking good man, keep up the good work I wish I could be doing as well.
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lol... i think you're the only visitor these days....Originally posted by SSMAccord View Post
She's at the tuners this week for a list of stuff. Tires, inspection, re-tune since engine tear down, & have him check it over. We need to re-tune it since the engine is different now. Nothing major but I can tell it "breathes" different. It's always good to have a 2nd set of eyes on the car too. The extra items were stuff like 2-step, rev limit, some ECU protection, and I think he's going to finish the meth kit install. He may just hit 500 HP while tuning not sure. We also may break the car & a good chance too. Let's be real here; we are trying to hit 500HP on 30 year old OEM parts. OEM axles! ha... If we hit 500HP I think I'm good. Goal reached. No more modding for the cb7. Just stupid to keep pushing it. If it was a new k series then that's a different story.
(lately for the past few weeks .... /months .. i've been itching to buy a tool cabinet. 52"... )Leave a comment:
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- All wires protected with wire loom
- Meth fuel line and controller boost line run under the car (in the brake line / fuel line tray)
- Electrical lines run up drivers side
- Pump secured to trunk floor
- Tank & controller installed
still run this battery setup. two reds are for each amp.
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Ya, you guys are right. Nothing happened
The belt still had tension, just the lower cog could spin freely. No damage, compression tested 170+ across the board. Put it all back together (was not easy) and it started up perfect!
New news.... so I scheduled an appointment to have the tuner look at the car. He put a scare in to one stating how the H22 engine / rotating assembly should be re-balanced if one did the balance shaft delete DIY. Internet says no way...., not many saying yes. Asking around....
Added this to the trunk of the car. Yep, here it will live forever.
Uh-huh.....
New to me! I like trying new stuff.....
I feel like the company meeting was like... "sure... throw in a sticker.....I guess. "
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This happened to me in…2021(?). I was at idle when it happened and just like you the car just shut off. The engine was out of time as a result of the woodruff key slipping out and letting the crank rotate for a moment without the cams moving. Once I retimed and snugged everything back up, the engine fired up like always. Hopefully you’ll have a similar experience.Leave a comment:
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ha. apparently I did all seals properly, and torque all bolts to spec!! ................. except for one........ haha. And it was the crank bolt
And it revealed itself on the highway one day and fully came out. I thought it was a power steering squeak so I was stupid and ignored it but shit quickly hit the fan haha. The crank pulley started coming off and taking the key (wood-drift?) with it. The power steering belt came off (from the bottom pulley) and the noise of the pulley rubbing against the frame of the car made me pull over immediately. I"m not sure if I shut the car off or it shut itself off at this point, it all happened to quick. A guy did stop who had tools & when i was looking at it and I pushed the pulley back on w/ key and tightened the 19mm but it wouldn't start. hmm the rpm gauge wasn't moving...
So. wow... lost timing and the engine came to a halt. And........ how to tow her (she looks good on the tow truck though)
^^ thanks Mike. Great guy, once he seen the car he took great care. Even dropped her back in to the garage for me
ok..... fast forward two nights later and ya'll know I had to dig in to this immediately! I will say... this didn't bother me like it would in the past. Great learning experience. I expected something to go wrong too as it was my first full engine build. It was my mistake for ignoring the rotating squeak noise and not investigating it further. So....... what do you think the damage was....
when i took the crank pulley off ...
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Hey! Thanks for stopping by haha. Visitors are rare these days
Sooo we got the VMS valve cover kit &.......... ug.. I'm not impressed. For the cost + shipping + duty fees ug.
These "top hats" do have a fine rubber o-ring built into the bottom and top. Looks nice, but doesn't look robust.
But the cover...... ug. ahhh ... wtf... I hate being tricked like this. #1... no way you're using this anywhere but a photo. and #2, even then it's garbage.
Even with the supplied washers it sucks...
Just no way I would allow the wires to rub in multiple spots like this. Even if you poke them out the top it's rubbing. the OEM has a dome shape for a reason.
Anywho...took the car for another 20km trip to the grocery store and the new valve cover nuts/seals did fix the problem Back to dry valve cover. 
And problem #2 revealed itself. I went into turbo a bit and blew a intercooler piping clamp. Got home and realized I ordered the wrong size when replacing the previous one and this clamp was as tight as it could go, 73mm. I need 65mm or less (2.5" pipe). So ordered new clamps.
And it stalled when pulling in the driveway. I hate that I can't solve that issue. The ole... off the gas and on the brakes and idle drops too low. Even though S300 is set to 800 etc. it drops below it. Have long starts too... going to check all grounds and alt / power wires.
Besides that it runs great. I'm starting to believe I actually did this job successfully
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I had no idea this thread was here. I may have never looked in this sub-forum before, because I thought it was just a picture forum, but dang 227 pages! That's a lotta luv you've given your car.Leave a comment:
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Didn't think this upgrade would of made me so happy. Loving these eyelids.
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Another 10K and an issue finally appeared (Not sure why this is exciting...) . Oil in here ..... but not on the spark plug tube seals.
Let's take a peak. All looks good ..... but ya... valve cover nut bushings are soaked. Spark plug tube seals were dry.
ha... gave this some thought. .... and read online. Agree that it's probably the valve cover nut seals. Then I thought about how old mine are. Then I realized they are as old as the engine.... so ... 31 years.
. OK. ordering new hardware.
But man the car drives nice. Still could use some tuning low end, idle, etc. I feel like she's a brand new car the way it handles and feels.
Plugs look good.
Old = old. The cable was always a little stiff too... + old plastic = doh. (and the knob moves easier when the engine is warm)
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Well big thanks to Jacob for coming out to help me bleed the brakes. Then the wheels went on and she started up fine & I'm happy to announce she runs great! Took it for a drive down the road and around the block and such (5-10min drive). Didn't get into boost really but it's there. Going to baby her for 400km and make sure the head gasket and other items play nice and get no leaks. It handles like a brand new car to be honest, as it should.
Closed loop we are pegged at 10.0 like the IACV is open ... not sure what's going on there I think I can simply adjust the ECU to compensate. But after 5min or whenever open loop kicks in she's 14.7 and has no issues. While the engine is still (if you put your hand on it), inside the cabin there is definitely more vibrations (from removing the balance shafts + using stiff mounts). You can see the hood vibrate now, the dash vibrates, and the mirrors. But only at idle really. = because racecar.
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This! UG. This is so hard to do every time. To get everything in always takes muscle, patience, and the usual blood, sweat, and tears. ie:
- the strut brace on the top side is so tight of a fit that the shocks need to be pushed up into it vs. you putting it on after the shocks are installed.
- the shocks need to go in at the same time as the axles. You cannot do one or the other first.
- the traction bar connection bolts will hit the axle; you need to have it jacked all the way up and at the right angle for these to go in
It's hard to explain but you have the LBJ (lower ball joint) out, while the shock hang loose, while putting the axle in the hub, while pushing the shock up.
Either way always takes me 3-4 hour per side.
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