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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Mmm never thought of that. Thanks!

    Got the bearing press the other day..... lol. Awww it's so cute ha.. .it was below my waist line tall. But that meant I could pick it up and do the work outside in the sun


    And it worked just fine. I used it to finish that lower ball joint too, which you could see things start to bend a little, but still did it. (freezing the ball joint probably would of helped etc.)




    Back in business. New LBJ (c-clips in), Hubs/bearing pressed together, fit in nice, need rotors on, knuckles in, brakes on, axles in, and then get her back on her feet.....



    The vice I got to replace the old. Should do fine...

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  • Rilas
    replied
    As for the change in your car running for around 30 seconds. I'm leaning towards it's starting up with narrow band 02 sensor and at 30-35 seconds switches over to wideband and your fuel/timing maps. They aren't as clean and therefore you can tell when the transition happens. Otherwise your making great progress.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Originally posted by SSMAccord View Post
    Congratulations, you now have a massaging Honda Accord! It seems to be running pretty smoothly, now you gotta get it tuned.
    Yep, runs fine I think. No leaks which is good. Ya, i really need to learn to tune myself . My own fault for not even trying..., but also not much one can do with out a dyno. (I am not road tuning..).



    This is what happens when you don't use the right tool for the job. First one went fine...


    2nd, not so... WTF, i'm not that strong. My compressor also shit the bed... A bolt inside holding a wire came loose over time and the wire melted the plastic around it destroying everything.

    Last edited by Raf99; 06-08-2024, 11:24 AM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Congratulations, you now have a massaging Honda Accord! It seems to be running pretty smoothly, now you gotta get it tuned.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    Well we finally got the courage to dig back into this...... story time first.

    Made a mistake and ordered the hubs and bearings separate. Soooo took them to my tuner to have them pressed in, but .... he was busy I will admit. He can't find techs to do the mechanic work. But he said, np he can do them. Waited over a week and wrote him, no reply. Called him the next day and left a VM. No reply. Waited a couple days and called again, got him. Answer = Will have them done soon. I asked if he ordered the LBJ, yep.. he did. OK. Call back two days later (now next week) and tell him I'll be there Wednesday to get them (giving him two days). He says np, and to call him Wednesday morning to remind him.

    Wednesday comes, I don't call him. I show up out of the blue, walk in with gloves on and grab the knuckles on the floor which haven't moved 1". He comes out saying how he can do them right now (get his tech to do them). I say it's ok, you busy, I understand. Calm. Joke about how he's supposed to quote me $400 so I just don't bring them (like I do with horrible customers or when I'm too busy). Doesn't bother me that he couldn't do them, it bothers me that he lied and said they were done. to "come get them". I also didn't ask about the LBJs that he "ordered" and just waited for him to say "do you want to pay /take those LBJ I ordered?". But I said nothing, knowing he didn't order shit.

    Meh.... great tuner. But not sure why he's over booking his techs which is making him forget small details like this. I'm sure the techs or maybe himself will have garage chat about how a customer came and took their shit back after 2 weeks of waiting when he was told twice they would be done next day. Anywho...... best of luck to him. He's super busy, wish he had of just told me so. I called other shops but they are booking any work more than 1 month out.... sigh.

    So... I ordered a bearing press. Enough of this. The LBJ came in too. These are Mevotech TXK9643. $95 CDN each.



    - Finally got SManager back on the laptop and found the tune. Loaded it and connected / started the car. IAT read 123. hmmmm.... quick google = sensor bad. Nope, just wasn't connected. Took me an hour to find the dam thing too haha...
    - After that we have good a/f, proper TPS, working alternator, IAT/ECT working.
    - Not sure about timing yet, i did mark the distributor but... think i need to use the gun for that as it's OBD1




    So ya, it starts fine. It seems to run fine, but there are some noticeable items...

    So ya..... starts and runs fine. ha, still have the same had noise. Obviously ..... the valve springs should be done and new cams.



    35 sec mark you can hear the car change the tune, struggle, ..... I always wondered why it does this sometimes.




    but ya... ESP stiff motor mounts and now no engine balance shafts...= lots of vibrations.



    I think my BOV may not be working......
    Last edited by Raf99; 06-06-2024, 12:26 PM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    This sounds promising! I can’t wait for it to be rolling again.

    i have also had that overlooked drain plug leak situation. I think they just get forgotten when there are so many moving parts during assembly of the engine bay.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ha... i don't have a trans leak. I just didn't tighten the drain plug all the way So I think that means Sally has zero leaks. Cool...

    New "honda" drivers side fender liner. They never line up to the OEM holes....





    Definitely have to do something with that eye sore intercooler pipe. It takes a lot of work to get to this point too.....


    Plugs look fine...


    Still missing a trans bolt. No idea where that went. I suspect I used it on the engine stand and it got mixed up in a box. That's the only thing missing.
    Still waiting for knuckles with new bearings/hubs/LBJ back from a shop this week & then that all goes back together. Then it should drive technically.....

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied

    Soooo got some guages hooked up and there's obviously an increase in oil pressure. But that is expected with the balance shaft delete kit.




    New


    Ignore the A/F as there's no intercooler on it. I definitely notice the vibration in the cab of the car but to touch the engine it's fine at idle. The car is also on jack stands. But I can tell the engine sounds smoother and cleaner. "Newer".
    Soo.... next...

    - Get SManager working, connect intercooler and piping / complete the loop. This should fix the A/F
    - See if the car works. I know the stupid transmission is leaking a drop every night.... grrr.. dam silly idea to have a seam where the fluid collects at the bottom.
    - Will check the plugs out.
    - The knuckles / bearings / hubs all went to a shop to put together. Putting new LBJ in too
    - Brakes need to be bled
    - No idea where my power steering fluid went but the reservoir is empty & I can't find the PS pump adjuster bolt anyways...
    - Need to get this car mobile!

    And also packing the whole house and garage in hopes that someone buys this and then I'll be moving. For Sale sign is on the lawn! If successful we upgrading from a single garage to a double

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Oh ya first starts are the scariest. Sounds really good actually! Nice work dude!

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  • Rilas
    replied
    Sounds decent for a first startup. Things will slowly quite down a bit as it gets some run time on the motor.

    I started assembling the motor for the Pilot last night. Got the main bearings all measured out. Got the rings sorted out and measured. I need to get the pistons on the rods, rings on the pistons and into the block tonight. But yea if this was your first time doing any of this work it's a bit nerve racking on that first fire up. I remember starting up the H22 after I rebuilt it. Primed the oil a bunch and then tried to start it 5-6 times and it wouldn't even fire a bit. Went to bed at like 1am so defeated. Went to work the next day, came home and she fired up on the first crank. But I was so worried and nervous all day long.

    It can only get better from here.
    Last edited by Rilas; 05-09-2024, 12:24 PM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Thanks all. Found the house I want, need to sell my house to make it happen. This is the first week for the house on the market!

    Meanwhile, I'd say this is the most nervous start of my life.

    https://youtu.be/z2T7DaRZ3xk
    Last edited by Raf99; 05-08-2024, 05:49 PM.

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  • Rilas
    replied
    Congrats on the house! Moving sucks.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    That seems wise.

    Good luck on the house though!!!

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Yep. Giving up on the big brake upgrade for now. These wheels will not work here. I'd have to shave about 1/8" or more off the caliper, then more to clear the wheel weights.
    And.... I'm hoping to move soon. It took me a year but I found the house I want (has everything I want) and my house is on the market now. Fingers crossed!
    If I do move you'll see the photos on my MRT stop working for a week or so as they are hosted off my server @ home.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    CyborgGT, cannot move the bracket as the caliper is mm away from the rotor inside of it. I really need a wider wheel or one that doesn't have the "lip" where the wheel weight goes. OR I shave the heck out of these calipers, I will say there is a lot of material there but this may be part of the cooling material; not sure. I do like my current wheels though.

    ...... the magic total was $41,789CDN ($30,607USD). You were all close. That's a H22, + another bottom end H22 + $10K+ of turbo parts and dyno sessions. Full exhaust setups. Most of the stuff had to be ordered from the US as I'm up north where the reindeer fly. Carpet, lights, more lights, fogs, intersection lights, harnesses, clusters, traction bars, calipers, S300, Skunk2 intake plenums, stereo equipment. Dam, I remember buying my rear disc setup from DarkCloud back in the day as I couldn't find it in Canada. Local bought items like wheels, seats, and engine blocks, heads.....











    Hmmmm.










    Finding issues = good.


    Interesting pic. The traction bar goes on top of the oil catch can hoses (not shown here). Those hoses go on top of the intercooler piping. That piping is on top of the radiator hose. That hose on top of the head heater/coolant hose, that hose on top of the shifter cables.




    Debating on painting this green...

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