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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Well... I have to admit I'm a little stumped on this one.

    Issue: Passenger side high beam does not work.

    What i determined so far:
    - Getting 3.3V at all times, although drivers side gets 12V (3.3V = DRL)
    - It's not my 10+ year old crimp job / re-did it.
    - It's not the bulb in the headlight, tested with 12V source
    - Getting 12V at the fuse box, for both high beams. (on both sides of the fuse)

    All this work got me 0.7V haha...




    I did this when connection probably 15 years ago.


    Even though it tested fine, I'm not going to leave it like that. Solder time.



    DOH! lol


    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    Thanks man, always appreciate ya stopping by of course! Only thing stopping this car from being put together is the fender washers/bolts I seem to have lost.

    Leave a comment:


  • Grumpys93
    replied
    RAF,
    this is all lookin great! Push button is nice, only thing that is kind of annoying, is in order to turn on ACC, or start car you have to push in the brake. Again not a big deal, just different. Praying you have no leaks and the oil issue is resolved.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    Just the radiator overflow hose / cap; i was cleaning it out, so just dangling there. Push button will be no key required. 100% positive that my ignition is super f00ked and I could start the car with a stick. The downfall here is no steering lock capability, but don't need it. We'll have more info coming soon.

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    What's that white thing hanging out between the clutch slave and radiator for? Looks like a vacuum check valve?

    Push start sounds cool. Going with OEM that still requires a key, or a full-on modern system?

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    I started the car today and made sure all is well. Runs great! I see by the cams the timing is off maybe a hair.... but not even sure what it should be. I set it to 15deg. I can't figure out why the "Set Timing" option in SManager is greyed out. So I can't see what the tuner set it to. But still runs great! I can still hear a tiny bit of belt squeal, but F-that. I'm not taking it apart again, i think i'm imagining things now too. Tonight I spent another few hours putting her back together and finishing the power steering cooler setup. Tomorrow I'll fill it and test it. ... if still no leaks then...

    - headlights in and test
    - bumper on and test all lights
    - new front grill ....
    - front wheels on.... and see if the transmission works
    - go for a short drive
    - check for leaks, clutch adjustment?
    - car needs a wash too

    ... and not to mention the original original problem (catch can filling with oil). Did our valve seal job work?

    Location of the cooler


    Lines go through here. Ya... left over pieces :P All gets tucked in there. Extra padding added where needed.


    Over the ALT with extra protection. The proper way to do this is to run the lines around on the body with proper clamps, etc. Meh.


    Fini. The PS reserve is now higher than all the other PS lines in the system, should work great.



    And....... if all of that is working no problem, then we are working on the push start DIY. Ohh exciting.

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I was too weak to persist, I guess. I tried putting mine partially onto each pulley at first, too, but I could never loosen the belt enough to have it not be a pain.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    OK......... Well . Ug. There was definitely some blood and sweat going into Sally.

    I read some posts on prelude forums and figured out that if you just put the belt half on , for the tensioner / water pump / exhaust cam, it will slide on. Sooo fought with that all day started it and timing issue solved! But.... ...... ug....... timing belt squeal !!! BAAA . While the manual timing belt tensioner is great, it sucks trying to set it so everything is happy.

    Sooo let's take it all apart again. Let the tension off and just tightened the bolt. The dam belt is tight enough as it is. But this is all pretty dam frustrating! Takes hours to do this... ug. I think this is try #4 of doing the timing ........ I guess practice makes perfect.

    Made a vid



    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya... well after reading all night I guess I'm going to stick with this h23 setup. Honda-tech and other websites talking about how the belt should be tight and a huge PITA to put on. Harder with the engine in the bay.
    Not sure I want to pay hundreds of dollars for the auto setup from the dealership (assuming they have it). Anyone know what's up with this style tensioner? Looks not legit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    OK. Car runs like shit and figured it was the timing, so I went out and got a timing light gun. OK, fixed that! Set the gun to 15deg and then used the cam lines. Seemed obvious where it should be judging by the sound of the engine too. First time I did it and glad I got over that hump ! But car still ran like crap. Stalling, low idle, rich......... all the symptoms pointed to what I though... off a tooth....

    Upper marks were good..


    Bottom was not so good




    Tried fixing this but could not get the belt back on . As CyborgGT noted the H23 manual timing belt mod is super tight! Like way way too tight! And as of this point I can't get the belt back on (with the engine in). Not that I want it back on anyways. Look at this crap ......



    Tensioner I have...



    So i was all set to order the K tuned / 1320 kit but then noticed I don't even have the parts for the auto tensioner anymore (the bolt that goes in the block and the pivot arm, etc.). Sooooo not quite sure what to do at this moment. Anyone have the parts I need?

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    Originally posted by TypeG View Post
    wow. been awhile since i have seen your pics. it's come long quite a bit. later.
    ya man. Thanks for stopping by !

    Leave a comment:


  • TypeG
    replied
    wow. been awhile since i have seen your pics. it's come long quite a bit. later.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied


    The rails on these are garbage. Rusted, one of them appears to be the F-series rails. They are already cut..... and missing plastic pieces. BUT.... the fabric section is in good shape! Only part with an issue is the drivers seat where people rubbed on the corner.

    Leave a comment:


  • SSMAccord
    replied
    I think the MR2 pump is typically mentioned because it was one of the only EHPS pumps around when people started doing that mod way back when. Today they are kinda impractical as they are quite rare and expensive because of that, luckily EHPS is much more common now. There are similar pumps available from Volvo, Nissan and many others that operate the same way. There are a few of these pumps that are larger and bulkier than the MR2 or Volvo pumps which makes them not as great for finding space for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    So SSM, are you scared of the electric power steering ripping the wheel from your hands if it malfunctioned ?
    Not at all, the failure state is that the pump would not work or not produce pressure. If there was a pressure situation, the pump doesn't put out enough pressure to take control of the wheel and would likely just cause fluid to spill out of one of the low pressure hose fittings.

    Also due to the way that I installed it, the pump powers down when the vehicle is at speed and also has a standalone on/off switch.

    I have seen powersteering issues that cause the wheel to turn to one direction on its own which is frightening, I encountered this when I was running the H22 pump and air was trapped in the system.

    Leave a comment:

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