Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

yep, agreed. Although i don't remember taking the wheel off I think i most of had it off at one point. This should be an easy fix .

Edit: Ahhh i did have the wheel off last December when I did the black dash swap. I'll just take it off and tun it to the left one mark.

[Raf99]

Sally is a good girl

[Grumpys93]

That thing sounds nice and I love the rear lip. Might have to get my hands on that. I can't tell but did you also put the middle section on as well in the 3 piece skirt?

[Raf99]

That thing sounds nice and I love the rear lip. Might have to get my hands on that. I can't tell but did you also put the middle section on as well in the 3 piece skirt?

You mean the rear? It's the 95 accord EXR lip in the rear which does have a little section in the middle. I've always wanted to upgrade the rear lip though and get a sigma front lip. But impossible to find these days...

[NH-503P-3]

Hey John, on your headlights, are the projectors bi xenon? If so, do you have them wired to work with your high beams?

[Raf99]

Hey John, on your headlights, are the projectors bi xenon? If so, do you have them wired to work with your high beams?

Hey. Yes they are xenon. The toggle/flap is simply using a relay to trigger the flap when the high beam wire gets voltage.

[Raf99]

The more i think about it the more I think the fuse box needs a direct link to the alternator. I can still see 11.8V with the high beams on, HVAC on high, at idle.

[NH-503P-3]

I don’t even think my car has been as good with the battery in the trunk. I might have to change some routing. I’ll have to test the voltage at my alt an starter also. I did figure out the bi xenons too. I knew someone else on here had to have known how to make them work with the high beams. Since my car has DRLs I had to do it just a lil differently. But yeah single pole double throw relay does it.

[Raf99]

Left side = OEM.
Right side = My setup.

When you think about it. The ALT can only push so many amps (per distance). The direct draw from the ALT are the accessories, aka - the fuse box. In the OEM setup the ALT provides power to the fuse box (accessories) and also keeps the batter 'topped up'. The #1 draw on a driving car is the fuse boxes. Having no direct connection between ALT and fuse box would stress other components. + having the battery further away.

Today I checked if the OEM wire in the wiring harness was long enough to reach current fuse box location. It was not.


Today I also tried on some bug deflectors I had.
...
..
.
First up, we have the ebay special, that was supposed to be black but came clear.


Not liking this one as the fitment is horrible and those sticky pads look horrible. Even though they do match the clear headlight protectors.



Next up,
...
..
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is the black OEM (I think?) one....


Fitment is amazing and clips are OEM ish awesome! (sorry couldn't close the hood)







What ya'll think ?

[Grumpys93]

I never understood how it deflects bugs or what the purpose is really. Clear is a no go, especially once bug guts start making it rainbow colors.

[Raf99]

Today I started on the OEM wind visors I had. I had some OEM I bought long ago but they were glued together and in rough shape. They also appeared to be more ebay than OEM as the plastic was glossy. These OEM ones are bit darker and the clips are in better shape. I only broke one clip on the drivers side installing these, and my "fix" already broke 3 times. I think on it...





I also was replacing chrome trim that was dented with "new" stuff...




The secret collection....


Think I know what one to use

[Grumpys93]

Lol its funny I also have a collection of coupe chrome trim parts in the event I acquire another dent in mine. Dent free chrome trim is hard to come by especially for a coupe.

[Raf99]

Finished the chrome and OEM window visors today.

[Raf99]

No relationship, just a random pic from today.

[Jarrett]

Weak sauce V8 R10.









(sarcasm)