H311RA151N : 1993 Accord EX

[H311RA151N]

Swapped the coolant temperature sensor with a known good one to see if it solved the torque converter issue. It did not.






Testing both coolant temp sensors, neither are faulty.




Pulled the TCU out. This is a replacement for the original TCU that went bad as can be seen earlier on in this MRT. Can't find anything wrong with it so back in it went.






I was curious as to the condition of the EGR system. Removed the EGR valve and made a quick inspection. Everything looked ok so it got cleaned up and put back on with a new gasket.








Some of the gaskets I have for the intake manifold. Only using the bypass valve gaskets in this kit. Other intake manifold gasket kit will be posted up at a later date.




Installed an Acura Legend? Vigor? PSF cap. I have several of these laying around so I figured why not.

[F22Chris]

Josh, how do you know if the egr is bad from visual inspection? I'm curious cause I've yet to clean the passages.

[H311RA151N]

Josh, how do you know if the egr is bad from visual inspection? I'm curious cause I've yet to clean the passages.

No way that I know of to really "tell if it's bad" other than a CEL code 12.

I was looking to see if it was completely coked up or not. And it wasn't. I also looked down the ports with a mirror and flash light, it's not real bad but it needs the passages cleaned when I get time.

[H311RA151N]

Luckily I have some OEM replacement EGR plugs from the last intake manifold I cleaned. One less thing to hunt down.




Ishino intake manifold gasket set.




I've had these forever. Might as well put them to good use.




I'm also going to use a JDM F22B DOHC throttle body on the H23A1 plenum instead of the H23A1 throttle body.




A nice feature of the JDM F22B DOHC throttle body. Actual screws for the TPS.

[F22Chris]

So in theory, can I just get a rifle cleaning brush with some carburetor cleaner and jerk it off in the egr passage? This just seems so much faster than drilling and picking imho.

[H311RA151N]

So in theory, can I just get a rifle cleaning brush with some carburetor cleaner and jerk it off in the egr passage? This just seems so much faster than drilling and picking imho.

There is a small passage leading into each runner from the egr ports, about as big around as the led on the end of a pencil. Those holes need to be cleaned out.

[F22Chris]

So what you're saying is yes I can do this for the big passage way from the egr to side port, but pick out the tiny ones up top. Gotta source some port plugs then. If I'm doing this I want that shit as clean as possible, no point in doing it just to have some random chunk of carbon fly off and block it again.

One more kinda silly question. Does the egr gasket go paper side to the valve or to the intake?

[H311RA151N]

So what you're saying is yes I can do this for the big passage way from the egr to side port, but pick out the tiny ones up top. Gotta source some port plugs then. If I'm doing this I want that shit as clean as possible, no point in doing it just to have some random chunk of carbon fly off and block it again.

One more kinda silly question. Does the egr gasket go paper side to the valve or to the intake?

I'm saying it cannot thoroughly or properly be done. And that big plug on the end there is not replacement plug for. That I have found at least.

Paper side? The gasket I used was the same on both sides as were all others I recall using in the past.

[F22Chris]

I'll snap a picture of it when I get home.

[H311RA151N]

Gathering parts for a 5 speed swap. Located a clutch pedal assembly, manual brake pedal arm and shifter assembly with cables. Going to pick up the clutch pedal assembly and brake pedal arm tomorrow. Already have the shifter assembly.

Transmission, clutch pedal assembly, brake pedal arm and rear T bracket are the parts I'm immediately hunting down.

I'm thinking I will end up with a CD5 transmission. But we will see what happens. Flywheel and pressure plate bolts will come with the transmission and I already own a new rear main seal.


Innovative Auto to Manual Passenger Conversion Factory Mount
Valex Racing Clutch Line
LUK Clutch Master Cylinder LMC193
LUK Clutch Slave Cylinder LSC165
LUK Flywheel LFW118
Exedy Clutch Kit 08014
Timken 2007N & & 3459S Output Shaft Seals
Empire CV Shafts 803123 & 803121
Genuine Honda MTF 3 Quarts
Prestone DOT 3 Brake Fluid
Anchor Driver Side Mount 8016
Anchor Rear Mount 9137
Anchor Front Mount 8024

The total is $555.

The transmission, shifter assembly, clutch pedal assembly, brake pedal arm and rear T bracket are an additional $155.

Grand total for the 5 speed swap will be just over $700. Reliving the pain in my ass from owning an automatic is worth more than twice that.

5 speed swap will take me about 18-20 hours and it will have to be done straight through as that's what my schedule allows. It's not as bad as it sounds.

Things I will go without for a while will be fuel/water temp section from a manual gauge cluster, shift boot retainer ring and shift boot. I will find a random shift knob to throw on it for the time being. For a week at least, in which about once a week I have a day, possibly two to dedicate to my automotive projects.


Finally, after all this, I will get to start on the A/C system. Also needing completed is servicing the steering rack. Along with intake manifold removal, cleaning, installation and H23/F22B DOHC intake manifold/TB.

[H311RA151N]

My GF wanted to take this car to town today to get groceries being as it's a four door. Since the transmission is coming out in the very near future I'm not concerned with possibly causing more damaging to the transmission so I informed her to go ahead and drive it.

Upon her return she called me and told me to meet her in the driveway regarding the car. Once she pulled in she told me the check engine light was on and the D4 light was flashing. So I got the wire I keep in the glove box and checked the codes. Video below.


\

14 which is the IACV and 6 which is ECT, engine coolant temp sensor.

I have checked the coolant temp sensor's ohms recently along with the connections and it tested to be in perfect working order. Same with the IACV.

IACV was 13.6 ohms and 11.89 volts with the ignition on ACC and engine off. So it was within spec.

TCU code was a 2. Shift solenoid B. Which upon inspection I found the clip was not fully snapped. I might have done it during the millions of times I had it removed or the thing is about wore out. Idk, but that was the issue with it. Onto the CEL codes...

Some ten or so minutes later I stumble on this thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=183897

So I pull the ECU out and have a look.



Within two seconds of removing the cover I find an issue.













So I looked for another PT6 in my boxes of parts and I only had a PT3 that I'm almost positive came from a manual, not an automatic. But I tried it out and still no torque converter lock up. Not that I care much. My mind is on getting a 5 speed in this thing, this shit box it has now can go to hell.

It's at this time, during the test drive, while coming to the realization that with almost absolute certainty it's not going to lock up that my GF asks what seems to be an odd question at first "Why is so many electrical things burnt in this car?" And before I could respond she adds "Could a car being struck by lightning cause it"? Then a light bulb goes off above my head....

About a week after purchasing this car she was driving it home from work during a thunderstorm and called me because lightning came close to the car and the radio wouldn't work afterwards and the door and trunk lights on the cluster started flickering. I instructed her to pull over when it was safe, wait until the rain stopped and then to get out make sure the turn signals and lights worked so it would be safe to continue to drive it home where I could then look at it. It was and home she went.

I took a look at it while I was busy bullshitting with a friend. Interior fuse panel, radio fuse was blown. So I replaced it and started the car, checked the lights and such and I figured it was in a sense coincidental as maybe the fuse was weak from arking a hot wire on some sheet metal during a poor stereo installation or something similar. I assumed that if lightning ran in on the car very much at all it would be very evident. I then got side tracked and didn't try the stereo to verify that it worked after fuse replacement.

Next day, GF calls me at lunch and lets me know the stereo still doesn't work and she set the clock and it keeps going back to 12:00 after turning the car off. I immediately think "radio/backup" fuse. When I get home I see that the radio/backup fuse is blown and replace it this time testing the radio. It's all good now I figure.

Three to maybe four days later the torque converter stops locking up. A couple days after that I find the TCU is burnt up...






Then a few days after replacing the TCU to no avail I find the main relay is bad...




I attempt to pull the codes for the ABS system. Won't show any codes no matter what I do. I ask my friend who I bought this car from and he informs me it did give him an ABS code about 3 months ago but he cannot recall what it was.





Now I find that the ECU is also fried.




This car I have been around for almost 6 months now. Five of those months it was in my friends possession. It never had any issues what so ever until that lightning came close to it or done what ever it did. I have found burnt electrical component after burnt electrical component since then. It has to be due to lightning.

[ol blue]

Like I said in your other thread I am heading to the junkyard today want me to see if I can find a pt6 manual ecu for you?

[Jarrett]

I have a couple of them that I'm not using.

[F22Chris]

No luck from me in the jy visit. There were only 2 a4 shields and one was rusted. The other was pulled off and stepped on.

[ol blue]

Same here. All there was in the yard was 2 a6 and 4 a1.