greencb7inkc : 1992 Accord EX

[MikeW]

Orly?

I havent paid attention to the cluster. So far its been just the radio. I wonder why those LED bulbs do it, but the others dont.

I like these, but if that radio issue gets to me, ill change em out.

In the meantime, im working on that brake issue. The ABS deal was causing fluid to overflow the reservoir. Hopefully its just a matter of low fluid. If there's air in the system, i'll do what i have to clean it up and i'll also check my hoses.

[mndude07]

Its because the LED's have a different resistance value than the regular bulbs, so they alter the circuit, and if all the lighting is connected one way or another, then that's why it would affect other things like your cluster.

[MikeW]

But i meant i never had an issue with the previous LED bulbs. The forward-facing ones. Just the new wide-angle ones i put in the other day.

It's not really a bother, as i cant tell during the day and at night, my lights are already on, so...

Also, MC is the culprit so far.

[mndude07]

But i meant i never had an issue with the previous LED bulbs. The forward-facing ones. Just the new wide-angle ones i put in the other day.

It's not really a bother, as i cant tell during the day and at night, my lights are already on, so...

Also, MC is the culprit so far.

I'm not sure then, that's weird. What do you mean the MC is the culprit so far? Mike, if you can hold off for about 5 weeks, I'll be home for spring break. If you have all the parts then we can take care of your brakes for good.

[MikeW]

I cant. A few of the stops today i had to rip the e-brake, it's getting that bad.

The DS-rear caliper is all rusted and doesnt look like its been doing much lately, but we were able to get it to move and work. The e-brake is working fine so i dont know what the deal is with the light being on.

We pump tested all 4 corners and got a bit of air out, but the pedal is still real mushy. I can get a brand new MC, from Honda for $100, so i might as well. My e-brake works, and im not too worried ABS either. Im just tired of having to downshift and engine-brake. Not to mention i wont let anyone drive it while its like this and thats messing up transportation schedules.

[MikeW]

Ok, uh, lol. Everything's fine. For now. Lol.

Bled quite a bit of air out of all 4 corners and pedal is fine. It's a tiny bit mushy, but MUCH better than before. I'll drive it around for a few days and if it gets worse, ill see about doing the MC. In the meantime, it's ok, lol.

Also, found my front left speed sensor unplugged. Dont know how i missed that but saw it hanging when we got it up in the air. Plugged it back in and that took care of the ebrake light.

Weird things, i tell ya.

[MikeW]

Here's new LED bulb vid at night. Again, sorry for the linky.

[kouzie]

^^^

[Nurega]

you have one of the cleanest cars on the site. I think it's the Arcadia Green that's really getting me off, but still. Nice work.

[MikeW]

Thanks for the compliment, but it's FAAAAAAAAR from one of the cleanest, lol. In the summertime, on a REALLY good day, MAYBE.


Like ive said before, paint's fading, has dents and her cancer is really starting to flare up. Not to mention, she needs a good thorough cleaning, inside and out.

I have CD6 rear sidemarkers that im yet to install and after that i think some off-brand visors are on the list, then that'll be it. Im not sure if i wanna run the ITRs on my stock studs or not. Extended studs would ne the safe bet, but we'll see. I may just need newer, better lugs.

[MikeW]

TAS has ARP studs
IL4 has red lugs.

These are still on my list.

I dont know about RS*R or anything else. If not a real drop, ive thought about doing something like Megan sleeves, just for a bit. My stock struts should be good for a year or so. If i can find someone who wants a "tuner" car then all the more better as they'll like the drop. If not, i'll just put OEM shocks back on, lol.

The ARP extended studs will let you run a huge ass spacer without having the issue you did coming back from Chicago with the studs/lugs stripping. We can get a pretty sick offset going on the itr's with appropriate spacers.

Adam, ive thought about this, but without a drop, i dont think this would look good, lol. Money and time are going to be tight, so June might be out, but if i try and get my shit together, i should be able to have things looking good by July or early August.

[JoshM]

Go with the Megan sleeves. The ride on stock shocks really isn't that bad. I prefer this ride over the Nuespeed Race/stock shock combo that was on my EX.

I'm sure STR.T's will only increase the ride quality.

[MikeW]

I have new UCAs and BJs, but im worried about tie rods and everything else. I can afford them, gradually and eventually, but if i do them all at once, i might as well save and get T2s but i dont wanna get sucked in, lol. I dont need anything performance based. I just wanted something low with a bit of comfort. Ive excepted the fact that going low is not going feel like im riding on air, so ive gotten that out my head. I just wanna go low, at least 2.5 all around, and get the ITRs on for the summer. And like Adam said, maybe put some spacers on and get a nice offset with them.

[MikeW]

Im also pretty sure i need a new flexpipe. I had all new 2" pipe put on last year when i put on the Cherrybomb muffler, so im pretty sure its not a shitty weld job, but ill have it checked out.

Ive thought about just picking up a TASauto header piece. Sunburn said he had an OBX and it held up fairly well, might price them as well.

Ive thought about getting an OEM muffler, but i dont know. I want a nice sound but i wouldnt miss it if i went back to OEM, lol.

We'll see.

[mndude07]

Mike,
Koni str.t shocks, megan racing sleeves, rsx muffler or something similar, and a megan racing/tas header will all cost under 1000, thats not too bad. you could do it and just leave the car at that point.