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Well I guess the show must go on .....so some updates...
Put the headlights back in, front bumper back on. And it now takes forever to do this!!! The lights alone have 4 connections each, there's the lower signal light, the intersection lights and the fender signal lights. You have to connect the intercooler and get everything just right (no pinching wires).
And as I mentioned before. Sometimes you have things that are just too beautiful to put on the car, but you have to .........
Can you weigh the stock arms when you get to replacing them? I weighed my set of FFC arms when they came in.
I would but I don't have a digital scale. I did use my bathroom scale and with both in my hand they weighed between 5-6lbs. No difference from what your pictures show.
On a unrelated topic. One of the bolts on the passenger side which connects the lower arm to the sub-frame is seized It's the one closer to the front so it's hard to get to. I've put a nut on it and hammered for a while, i've tried turning it with a long bar (see if i can break the rubber), I've even drilled some of the rubber away. Stubborn thing. Not sure how I'm going to get it out yet...
I would but I don't have a digital scale. I did use my bathroom scale and with both in my hand they weighed between 5-6lbs. No difference from what your pictures show.
On a unrelated topic. One of the bolts on the passenger side which connects the lower arm to the sub-frame is seized It's the one closer to the front so it's hard to get to. I've put a nut on it and hammered for a while, i've tried turning it with a long bar (see if i can break the rubber), I've even drilled some of the rubber away. Stubborn thing. Not sure how I'm going to get it out yet...
Give up on it. I had this Acura CL sub frame and control arms I had to complete the rear disc swap and I could not at all get the toe bolts loose in any way. What I had to do to remove it was an Acetylene torch and completely destroyed the arms and the bolts to get it off. Huge PITA to do, so my recommendation to you is since you will probably have to take the rear sub frame off now is to get an Acura CL sub frame with the thicker rear sway bar and put those new arms on that. With the stock sized arms on the CL sub frame you should still be within stock specs, the Acura CL arms that come with the sub frame will add some slight camber.
Turning the bolt turns the bushing. Banging on the bolt (with nut on it) does nothing. If I cut the bolt I still cannot pull it out the other end. And very little room to work work. Dan, can you elaborate on your idea there?
2 cuts. In between the arm and the cross member. mine was out of the car, so was easier. But you should be able to do it.
I think I know what you mean. I was hoping to not destroy the bolt that goes through there. I may try drilling around the bolt (on the rubber) which will ruin the LCA. Or I'll just get a bigger hammer
Looking good, but I have to say I am genuinly shocked you got one of the toe adjusting bolts off. How goes the removal of the other side?
Haha. It has been a long vigilant battle but the bolt is still the victorious one.
....God dam thing is not budging ! .... I've done everything but take a hack-saw to it and heat it. Hack saw will take an eternity a and I have no heat .
So I I sit here trying to think outside the box. .....
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