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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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    Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
    Oh I see.

    My problem is that after brake jobs, the rotor sometimes touches the dust shield and causes a very annoying repetitive sound. I was just wondering if you noticed anything that may cause problems from not having the dust shield. I am tired of fixing the contact issue and have bent the dust shields so many times.

    Next time I have the chance, I will probably remove them. Maybe it will help with cooling the rotors
    Ya. They easily get bent and cause the rotor to rub against it. It's just a piece of thin metal, so bend it back and out of the way. I'm surprised no-one has come up with a beefy option yet.

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      Looking good raf
      NEW CB



      old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

      new
      DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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        Originally posted by Darkcloud View Post
        Looking good raf
        Thanks man. Glad to see you around still

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          Raf do you remember how high your temps reached without the block off plate?

          MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

          Comment


            Originally posted by laz93se View Post
            Raf do you remember how high your temps reached without the block off plate?
            Never ran without it. Let's keep in mind that if the car is standing still this "problem/fix" doesn't apply. Your slim fan should turn on when the car reaches half temp and keep the temps at half (gauge half way up on the dash).

            Blocking the hole would only apply to dyno runs or driving. If you are having high temps with the car sitting idle for 30min then you have other issues with cooling. ie - air in the system, fan not pushing air, blocked rad, bad water pump, etc.

            Does your car go above half temp while sitting idle for 30min?
            Does your fan kick in?

            Comment


              Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
              Never ran without it. Let's keep in mind that if the car is standing still this "problem/fix" doesn't apply. Your slim fan should turn on when the car reaches half temp and keep the temps at half (gauge half way up on the dash).

              Blocking the hole would only apply to dyno runs or driving. If you are having high temps with the car sitting idle for 30min then you have other issues with cooling. ie - air in the system, fan not pushing air, blocked rad, bad water pump, etc.

              Does your car go above half temp while sitting idle for 30min?
              Does your fan kick in?
              I haven't idled the car for 30 min , but I have idled for 15-20 and it doesn't go past the half mark.

              The fan stays on all the time unless I go over 30mph , then The s300 will shut it off. I think it's a fan problem and heat soak. Before I installed the turbo , I was running open header and didn't have a problem. I am waiting for a spal fan, relay and hood spacers. Hopefully that will solve the issue.

              MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

              Comment


                Originally posted by laz93se View Post
                I haven't idled the car for 30 min , but I have idled for 15-20 and it doesn't go past the half mark.

                The fan stays on all the time unless I go over 30mph , then The s300 will shut it off. I think it's a fan problem and heat soak. Before I installed the turbo , I was running open header and didn't have a problem. I am waiting for a spal fan, relay and hood spacers. Hopefully that will solve the issue.
                If your car does not over heat at idle for 20min and only over heats while driving then cover up the hole and your problem will be solved. The rad is not getting any air at all with that wide open hole. No need for hood spacers etc.

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                  I'm always lurking haha, once I get setttled in my new living space I'll start my build again
                  NEW CB



                  old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

                  new
                  DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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                    lol. can't get the new power booster in. It's 1" larger than the OEM one. Tried lifting up the engine on that side and lowering it as much as it will go.

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                      Man that sucks. Could shortening the studs give you some room to maneuver? And/or maybe reshaping the booster a little with some love taps from a BFH?


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                        Yep. can't get new power brake booster in

                        Last edited by Raf99; 10-03-2015, 01:26 PM.

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                          Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                          Yep. can't get new power brake booster in
                          take the manifold off raf.

                          MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

                          Comment


                            Manifold off = fuel rail off = drain fuel lines & remove stuff in the way. Bitch bolts in the back bottom part. ... I really should have did this but I didn't.

                            I jacked the engine a weird way using two jacks to get the room I needed. Two jacks in use, only the back mount is in. there were a lot of battle scars! I would not do that again.



                            The next steps will suck. Getting to mess with the push rod settings.

                            Last edited by Raf99; 08-05-2018, 08:28 PM.

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                              Wow that's tight. Nice work!

                              I went with the easy route and bought a brake booster delete kit from Xenocron. Comes with an adapter plate and the Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder w/remote reservoir.

                              Manual steering and manual breaks should keep me in shape!
                              Last edited by GhostAccord; 10-03-2015, 11:28 PM.
                              MR Thread
                              GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                              by Chappy, on Flickr

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                                That actually rhymes. Good job!

                                I was reading about booster deletes not too long ago and how you could make the brake effort easier by changing the pivot point and making the cylinder diameter smaller, but it would have the drawback of increasing pedal travel. Has anybody here tried that yet?

                                YouTube Clicky!!

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