Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

So if you put the park lights on, you'll get the corner lights and the halos?
That's tight

Yes. And in Canada we have DRLs (20% high beams) which are JDM yellow bulbs with yellow reflector bowls always on. So.... it will look interesting to say the least.

[Raf99]

[Stoner51]

Nice you going to do your own tuning?

Did you buy that together? Hondata came out with a new version that has bluetooth and they have apple and andriod app for it.

steve

[Raf99]

Nice you going to do your own tuning?

Did you buy that together? Hondata came out with a new version that has bluetooth and they have apple and andriod app for it.

steve

No I wish... ....... I just seem so newbie, so far away from knowing how to tune. Its frustrating! Like wishing you could weld or program C++ code, you just can't tune one day. Takes time, knowledge, learning, etc. I've been reading, and in time I will learn it. I have SManager installed and I loaded the basemap for my car into it, but......... wow. Everything is so greek to me.

I feel like I know just enough to f*ck it up

But I printed off the SManager help files and i pick through it from time to time....

you know...

[Stoner51]

Its not that hard. But it does take time. And lots of reading. I've managed to get mine about where I want it. The software is really easy to use. Their forums have some good info on them. I started with the h22 basemap and worked from their.
I wouldn't start tuning till you got the wideband. I noticed you are running darton sleeves and lower compression pistons.
For my stock H22 it was pretty simple. I tuned it to where I wanted and no I run it in closed loop. Sort of set it and forget it. the s300 adjusts the fuel based on the wideband reading. I have an Lc-1 and recalibrate it every 3 months. If I was going to get one now I would get the LC-2. It doesn't have that big box in the engine bay.
The hondata h22 stock map is way rich and the timing can use to be adjusted at least 1-2 degrees. They do that for safety. At first I just did the fuel and ran the stock honata map ign tables. When I start tuning the ign tables is when the car came to life so to speak.

Sorry for the rant. Great build. And good luck with the tune. There are several members on here who are very helpful, MRX and ghostaccord. They know a lot and will usually help if you post a ? in the ECU tuning section.

steve

[Raf99]

Its not that hard. But it does take time. And lots of reading. I've managed to get mine about where I want it. The software is really easy to use. Their forums have some good info on them. I started with the h22 basemap and worked from their.
I wouldn't start tuning till you got the wideband. I noticed you are running darton sleeves and lower compression pistons.
For my stock H22 it was pretty simple. I tuned it to where I wanted and no I run it in closed loop. Sort of set it and forget it. the s300 adjusts the fuel based on the wideband reading. I have an Lc-1 and recalibrate it every 3 months. If I was going to get one now I would get the LC-2. It doesn't have that big box in the engine bay.
The hondata h22 stock map is way rich and the timing can use to be adjusted at least 1-2 degrees. They do that for safety. At first I just did the fuel and ran the stock honata map ign tables. When I start tuning the ign tables is when the car came to life so to speak.

Sorry for the rant. Great build. And good luck with the tune. There are several members on here who are very helpful, MRX and ghostaccord. They know a lot and will usually help if you post a ? in the ECU tuning section.

steve

Rant away man!

I have a AEM A/F gauge for the setup. I have no idea what a closed loop is (from what I read its setting parameters with the car at idle/not WOT). I'm going to keep reading because when it comes to technical items like knowing when to adjust degrees of timing based off A/F (or FAR) or the data reported back from SManager is way over my head. Other confusing items take experience; what PSI can the parts handle, what springs to use in WG, where to draw the line for pushing the car & what would the bottleneck be in my setup.

For now I'll get a shop to do this for me, then I'll probably start learning from there. At least then I'll be able to plug in and see real time data, start to learn what everything does in the software, etc. The shop doing this for me wants to start this Monday but I may wait a bit..., not sure.

[XCRN]

Thanks man. I still wish I had a super clean set of JDM lights. The last owner hacked these ones up pretty good.



Hmm.. ok. Where do I get this and how much? I'm guessing I'd need some kiddy pool or something. May be cheaper and look nicer if I get a new pure black carpet.

The cans of spray black for seats I have already. Going to have to spray them and do them right. May wait for a nice summer day to do this.

Sorry was occupied the last few days. WalMart and stores like it carry them for I believe I saw around $1.80 USD per box in my area. The place I got mine was a seller on eBay selling in bulk. But yes use a kiddy pool. I tried to do it in a plastic storage container and I had to keep flipping the carpet because it did not all fit. There is a DIY some where in these forums and it give a pretty thorough description.

[Stoner51]

Open loop means the ecu reads just from your fuel tables and doesn't adjust the fuel trim any.
Closed loop means you have a tune with fuel tables and then you set the computer to achieve a certain afr normal na is usually around 14.7 normal and 12.something for high load. The computer than adjusts the fuel tables to obtain the afr you set it at. This is based off the readings the computer gets from the wide band o2 sensor.

I am no expert but I do like to tinker and I think from reading your mrt that you do too.

Steve

[Domesticated]

In my experience, which was building and tuning a 2.4T I swapped into my old Neon and sharing cubes with the guy who was responsible for the final tune of every turbo car Chrysler have came out with in the last 25 years, working with MoTeC on pre production Vipers, and working with Arrow Racing Engines, A/F is really good and most people who tune use it only, but EGT is more important. My coworker said if he could choose between A/F or EGT he would take the EGT. It's well known that to a point a leaner mixture will produce more power, but a lot of heat. That's the point of running rich is to keep temps under control. Which is why when an engine is heat soaked it runs rich as hell and goes down on power. Both because of the heat and the rich mixture. A/F controls the EGT for the most part. With just an EGT you can tune you're A/F for a target temp without having to really know the A/F. It's nice to have both and I would never tune without both, but the point is EGT is very important and often neglected in street tunes.

Now except for advising on changes when a peer asked for advise, I haven't done any actual tuning since 2008, so it's possible I'm rusty, but if I were you dumping a shit ton of money into your personal car, I would spend the extra money on an EGT sensor. If you keep your EGTs at a proper temp you won't ever blow anything up from a "bad tune". There are also tricks for tuning spark which is what I used for street tunign which are called "Det-cans". Super useful and cheap. This is a cool DIY, but back in my day I used big head gear, surgical tube, and copper tubing lol. http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...5-dollars.html

[Raf99]

Sorry was occupied the last few days. WalMart and stores like it carry them for I believe I saw around $1.80 USD per box in my area. The place I got mine was a seller on eBay selling in bulk. But yes use a kiddy pool. I tried to do it in a plastic storage container and I had to keep flipping the carpet because it did not all fit. There is a DIY some where in these forums and it give a pretty thorough description.

You must mean RIT black dye? (not RTY) And what size of box did you get? I have a kid pool I can use so I will look for these.

Open loop means the ecu reads just from your fuel tables and doesn't adjust the fuel trim any.
Closed loop means you have a tune with fuel tables and then you set the computer to achieve a certain afr normal na is usually around 14.7 normal and 12.something for high load. The computer than adjusts the fuel tables to obtain the afr you set it at. This is based off the readings the computer gets from the wide band o2 sensor.

I am no expert but I do like to tinker and I think from reading your mrt that you do too.

Steve

So then as a newbie statement you would always dyno/road tune or adjust and monitor fuel tables in a closed loop?

In my experience, which was building and tuning a 2.4T I swapped into my old Neon and sharing cubes with the guy who was responsible for the final tune of every turbo car Chrysler have came out with in the last 25 years, working with MoTeC on pre production Vipers, and working with Arrow Racing Engines, A/F is really good and most people who tune use it only, but EGT is more important. My coworker said if he could choose between A/F or EGT he would take the EGT. It's well known that to a point a leaner mixture will produce more power, but a lot of heat. That's the point of running rich is to keep temps under control. Which is why when an engine is heat soaked it runs rich as hell and goes down on power. Both because of the heat and the rich mixture. A/F controls the EGT for the most part. With just an EGT you can tune you're A/F for a target temp without having to really know the A/F. It's nice to have both and I would never tune without both, but the point is EGT is very important and often neglected in street tunes.

Now except for advising on changes when a peer asked for advise, I haven't done any actual tuning since 2008, so it's possible I'm rusty, but if I were you dumping a shit ton of money into your personal car, I would spend the extra money on an EGT sensor. If you keep your EGTs at a proper temp you won't ever blow anything up from a "bad tune". There are also tricks for tuning spark which is what I used for street tunign which are called "Det-cans". Super useful and cheap. This is a cool DIY, but back in my day I used big head gear, surgical tube, and copper tubing lol. http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...5-dollars.html

It's so alien being a newbie getting into turbo tuning. I find myself reading and reading and reading. And just when you thought you read it all you hear of a term or method of doing things you've never heard before. With your statement I can't help but wonder where a EGT would go on a cb7?


I've also been looking at newbie vids for detonation prevention like this one,

[Domesticated]

Egt is best measured as close to the cylinder as possible, but a few inches down the header is fine. It won't lose much heat at that point. Tuning isn't a black art and realistically there aren't many methods for doing it. People probably practice different methods, but it doesn't mean they're doing it right. Get to target A/F and EGT, tune the spark, adjust fuel again as needed and check the spark again. Its regular driving and warm up that is pain. Takes a lot of work to make it drive nice.

[Stoner51]

If you are going to adjust the tables you need to adjust in in open loop. Closed loop would be constantly changing as the ecu is trying to achieve whatever AFR you have it set for.
Open loop is what most tuners tune cars in.
I tuned the car in open loop and then put it in closed loop and let the ecu adjust the fuel amounts. I have mine set to min a -5 and +5. That means that the ecu will add or subtract no more the plus or minus 5% fuel change.
Most of the tuners around here just use AFR, Mine never mentioned EGT but after reading what domesticated said I may have to read up some more on it. More information is always better than less.

The one thing I would suggest is to adjust your TPS. Even though the throttle body has never been off the intake manifold. "supposedly" each honda ECU reads the TPS voltage differently. So even if the TPS is set from the factory you are using a different ecu to read the voltage. It made a big on/off throttle difference in mine.

steve

[Domesticated]

The one thing I would suggest is to adjust your TPS. Even though the throttle body has never been off the intake manifold. "supposedly" each honda ECU reads the TPS voltage differently. So even if the TPS is set from the factory you are using a different ecu to read the voltage. It made a big on/off throttle difference in mine.

steve

Always calibrate TPS! There is a long list of things that should be done before any tuning takes place. That is one of them!

[Raf99]

Doh, as per this article i am realizing i need h1 bulb adapters for my high beam bulbs in the JDM lights. Hmm... hard to find from what I'm reading.

[Raf99]

Well the date has been set for the turbo install. It's next week and I'm pretty dam nervous.

I haven't had a chance to test fit the manifold, check clearances, or anything really. Just going to throw a seat in the car, throw some wheels on and send it over there.