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Grumpys93 : 1993 Accord LX

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  • Raf99
    replied
    .... input = buy expensive. Not sure why the different brands, but most likely the higher price = better quality. (most the time :P ) Can't remember the original OEM manufacture name.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    I have tried going through the bottom as I wouldn’t know how to life the car up high enough to get the motor out.

    I plan to go OEM but I see there are 2 brands Fuji and Koyo. Koyo is $20 more but I’m not sure why? Any input?

    https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...clutch-housing

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya. pressure plate fingers. I think you're right & you are going to see the release bearing has so much play that the bearings are really lose (giving you the sound) and so much play that it can't release the clutch from the flywheel.
    I've never looked in that hole, but i always wondered if you could put something in there and help pull the bearing back. Probably not enough room maybe. It's also too bad you can't get the trans off far enough to put one in there.
    Ever think of taking off the intake manifold / and exhaust and dropping the engine on the floor to do this work? (only works if both intake and exhaust manifolds are off)

    Good luck. What release bearing you going to go with?

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    So slave/rod moves back and forth as it should, with full extension and retraction. I just ordered a borescope and it should get here Wednesday. I’ll take a look in there and see what I can see.

    fingies I’m assuming you are referring to are the pressure place fingers?

    Also would any of these happen instantly or gradually? Because last time I drove the car I had no issues except the high pitch noise whenever the clutch pedal was not pushed in? Then after sitting for a month it all of a sudden starting acting like this. Didn’t have issues shifting into gear at all prior to this.

    Also I noticed with the high pitch noise, before if I jiggled the shift lever(fork) on the slave the noise would go away.
    Last edited by Grumpys93; 11-27-2022, 02:48 AM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya, same thing happened in the TSX I use to own maybe...

    1. Is the slave cylinder moving (on the trans) when you push the pedal? & the rocker arm going into the trans?

    I'm assuming yes. Have you looked in there / take a pic ?
    If all is moving but you can't dis-engage the clutch then ya fingies is a brokens, or clutch plate bolts came loose. The bearing coming completely apart would have this affect too. It would have tons of play and the sound too! Got a boroscope thingie ? Put it in this hole...

    Click image for larger version

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Raf, I’m not 100% sure. You’re the trans guru, I haven’t torn one apart yet. So I’ll explain what it’s doing.

    If I start the car in neutral it starts and idles fine. I push the clutch in, try to put it in any gear and it doesn’t budge. Almost like I’m not pushing in the clutch.

    If I turn off the motor and put it in gear then try to start it. Even with the clutch in, it lunges forward as if I didn’t have the clutch pushed in or in neutral.

    When the motor warms up it starts to make a high pitch metal sound until I push the clutch in, then the sound goes away. Take foot off the clutch sound comes back. Though it turned into a clanking noise now.


    I have adjusted the engagement point both full to the right and full to the left with no change.

    The master/slave cylinders are newer then the throw out bearing, there is no fluid leaking from either and I deleted the dampener a while ago.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Wow, that does suck. But I agree with both of your sentiments, dropping the trans is waaay too much hassle when the engine can just be taken out.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    That is sad, but for a min I thought you meant crank bearing. You should just go with OEM next time. But hey, can't you put a rod in where the bearing is and force it? (through the clutch slave cylinder boot hole) You're thinking the bearing isn't releasing the clutch on the shaft / not sliding? And I agree with you. If I have the tools I refuse to try and drop the trans out the bottom. Super Not Fun with the H22! Never again! But I will also admit getting the engine out the top is equally a PITA. ... now I remove the IACV (so it doesn't hit the firewall), the crank pulley, and it still takes the special twisting / turning to get it down there & at a stupid angle. Helps if the hood is off of course & the intake plenum too. & stupid stuff like the engine lift legs hitting the jack stands... , so what's the plan?

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Thanks for all the tips guys. I plan to do everything mentioned above, except start it once a month.

    On a sad note, I went to go for a drive yesterday and I believe the throw out bearing has gone out on me. It was making high pitch noises for a while and now its more of a clunking. But when I tried to put it in gear it would not budge. Then when I tried to start the car with the clutch in and it in gear it would lunge forward and stall. So it looks like I will be pulling the motor, but that wont happen until I get back from deployment next fall.

    I hate dropping the transmission the most out of everything I have done to the car, and would rather pull the whole motor. But looks like Freedom won't be moving anywhere any time soon. I have to say I am shocked the Throwout went out so soon. Its a timken throw out bearing and only has maybe 5k miles on it. But it is no mistaking that its the throw out bearing with the noise its making

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  • daovangphotos
    replied
    Grumpys93

    To store the vehicle (I had to do this when I moved to Wisconsin and car would sit about 6 months through winter)
    I jacked up the vehicle on all 4, left a battery tender (found out I needed this after the first year)
    I also used Sta-Bil in the fuel before filing up to ensure it makes and mixes with fuel.
    I also added some oil to the upper cylinder (remove spark plugs, pour in and reinstall all) Just to ensure it doesnt go dry in there while its sitting.

    I do start it once a month just to ensure if there is any condensation build up inside, it doesnt rust and seize any thing.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    I use Sta-bil. It works well and well recommended in most places.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Awesome thanks for the pointers guys. What stabilizer do you recommend? Do you run it through the system a bit or just put it in the tank and leave it?

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    I agree with Raf. I let my car sit on the ground for the 4-5 months that it has to be stored. I do put in fuel stabilizer and a battery tender to keep the battery from losing its potency.

    You can put the car on jackstands to keep the tires off of the ground and prevent any rodents from finding their way in.

    A fresh oil change and fuel treatment when it is back in service should be all that it needs to get up and running after that.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Hmm ya Hmm. Slow driving, ECU will try to correct for short term but it will run. Garage kept..

    - Non-E85 in the tank and a full tank. (moisture won't collect). *Gas gap off. (let pressure out)
    - Leave the battery on trickle or just disconnect the cables from it and let it sit there (don't store on cold floor)
    - Plug holes if you think mice will go in (exhaust, inlets etc)
    - Jack it up if you fear flat spots
    - Put a cover over her
    - Don't start it. It will be fine.
    - Change the oil after hibernation. (like the gas tank it's sat and collected moisture and thickened..., why not start fresh)

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    So updates for Freedom, We are now residing in California thanks to Uncle Sam and not the good part of Cali. But I am trying to figure out what all I need to do as I will be leaving the country soon for 6-9 months and need to store her. She currently has 1/2 tank of E-85 in her, and I have heard the E-85 will gum up if it sits for a while. So I want to put 93 back in it. However, apparently in CA or at least where I live the highest Octane they go is 91. Car was never tuned on 91 and I don't know any reputable tuners near me that can fit me in before I have to leave.

    My question is, what are y'alls thoughts on if If I drain the E-85 or drive it until most is gone, Fill it with 91 and simply drive it very nicely around to push out all the E-85 in the injectors and lines while running on my 93 Octane tune. I won't go into boost, just simply commuting around town. Anyone see in major harm occuring if I do this? It wouldnt be more then 100 miles.


    Also for you winter folks who store your cb for long term, what do yall do to prep it for long term storage? I was planning on filling the tank completely full, do an oil change, have the battery either disconnected or trickle charged, putting the cb up on 4 jack stands and removing the tires to prevent flat spots. It will also be garage kept. Anything else y'all do that I may have missed?

    I will ask my wife to start her at least once a month if I don't disconnect the battery, but I know she may forget or not feel comfortable doing so.

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