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Grumpys93 : 1993 Accord LX

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    This is remind me of taking multiple-choice tests when I went to school for automotive, and the teacher would throw in an option for laughs:

    D) Replace long block.

    Time for a K-swap, buddy!

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      Woah Buddy! Nah I’m building the h up now. Just dropped it off today to get sleeved. But the Accord will only see an F series in it. I have a feeling it’s something with the trans. But I have one more test to confirm it’s not the engine.
      ~Nick~
      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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        I’m super embarrassed to say this but I have found my source of the knock and it was my wastegate dump tube hitting against my traction bar….. At least now I know I have fresh rod and thrust bearings….
        ~Nick~
        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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          OMG. On the one hand it was nothing serious, on the other hand that was a lot of unnecessary labor! I am glad that your quest was successful though.
          http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

          Comment


            I'm guessing it's your clutch release bearing. Like a bad spot on one of the balls of the release bearing. When you put pressure on it, it tightens up and can't "bang around". With your foot off the clutch the shaft is rotating the bearing (maybe it's stuck as well) and you've worn a flat spot on it or the bearing. It could also be a broken tooth of the pressure plate. There's nothing else in there doing a rotational thing, and I'm guessing your issue sounds like a rotational "knock". Does the knock change with rpm?

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              Raf did you see my post above?
              ~Nick~
              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
              MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                I did now. haha... d00d.

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                  You found metal in the oil if I remember correctly, so in my opinion this was not wasted effort. Just good preventative maintenance and peace of mind.

                  Raf when the clutch isn't depressed our throw out bearings are not engaged therefore not spinning. They rest on the transmission housing itself and not the input shaft, so there is no spinning in the center for them. The face engages the pressure plate and then spins. They only make noise when shot and engaged.
                  MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                    Ahh yes. So my question is how did this new sound come to be ?

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                      So not sure if you recall me asking if there was a way to tighten a loose vband clamp a couple months ago? Anyways, my wastegate dump tube is v band that I purchased from a person local. I believe the clamp is slightly too big so over time with the vibrations of the engine my dumptube which is normally angled down and towards the driver side wheel slowly starts to rotate pointing directly down to the ground. I have never had it actually touch the traction bar when it does this. Usually I can hear it rattle slightly between the wastegate outlet and the dump tube. So I would tighten the clamp and continue on my way. Not the tube and traction bar.

                      So when I went to inspect the dumptube when the noise first came about the pipe and clamp were tight and didn't look like they shifted at all. So I didn't think it was that and it also sounded different from what I'm use to hearing. A way to combat this from happening again in the future is having a bracket welded on the pipe and bolting it to the block or traction bar.
                      ~Nick~
                      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                      Comment


                        So updates for Freedom, We are now residing in California thanks to Uncle Sam and not the good part of Cali. But I am trying to figure out what all I need to do as I will be leaving the country soon for 6-9 months and need to store her. She currently has 1/2 tank of E-85 in her, and I have heard the E-85 will gum up if it sits for a while. So I want to put 93 back in it. However, apparently in CA or at least where I live the highest Octane they go is 91. Car was never tuned on 91 and I don't know any reputable tuners near me that can fit me in before I have to leave.

                        My question is, what are y'alls thoughts on if If I drain the E-85 or drive it until most is gone, Fill it with 91 and simply drive it very nicely around to push out all the E-85 in the injectors and lines while running on my 93 Octane tune. I won't go into boost, just simply commuting around town. Anyone see in major harm occuring if I do this? It wouldnt be more then 100 miles.


                        Also for you winter folks who store your cb for long term, what do yall do to prep it for long term storage? I was planning on filling the tank completely full, do an oil change, have the battery either disconnected or trickle charged, putting the cb up on 4 jack stands and removing the tires to prevent flat spots. It will also be garage kept. Anything else y'all do that I may have missed?

                        I will ask my wife to start her at least once a month if I don't disconnect the battery, but I know she may forget or not feel comfortable doing so.
                        ~Nick~
                        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                        Comment


                          Hmm ya Hmm. Slow driving, ECU will try to correct for short term but it will run. Garage kept..

                          - Non-E85 in the tank and a full tank. (moisture won't collect). *Gas gap off. (let pressure out)
                          - Leave the battery on trickle or just disconnect the cables from it and let it sit there (don't store on cold floor)
                          - Plug holes if you think mice will go in (exhaust, inlets etc)
                          - Jack it up if you fear flat spots
                          - Put a cover over her
                          - Don't start it. It will be fine.
                          - Change the oil after hibernation. (like the gas tank it's sat and collected moisture and thickened..., why not start fresh)

                          Comment


                            I agree with Raf. I let my car sit on the ground for the 4-5 months that it has to be stored. I do put in fuel stabilizer and a battery tender to keep the battery from losing its potency.

                            You can put the car on jackstands to keep the tires off of the ground and prevent any rodents from finding their way in.

                            A fresh oil change and fuel treatment when it is back in service should be all that it needs to get up and running after that.
                            http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

                            Comment


                              Awesome thanks for the pointers guys. What stabilizer do you recommend? Do you run it through the system a bit or just put it in the tank and leave it?
                              ~Nick~
                              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                              MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                              Comment


                                I use Sta-bil. It works well and well recommended in most places.
                                http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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