Michigan Members

[nate'sCB7]

I drew up a logo...(MI CB7) is all the same size, about 1 1/2in tall, in block style lettering and then (CREW) is roughly 3in tall, in a graffiti style lettering. The whole thing is about 11in long and that includes spaces (MI CB7 CREW).

[CB7 Sleeper]

Tell me what you guys think. It's simple, and it can be a lot smaller if you'd prefer, (I know Cisco wants something small) but it's just a start to get an idea.

Nate, I'd like to see what you have drawn. Any chance we could get a picture of it?

[nate'sCB7]

My scanner took a shit on me so i had to re-make them in paint....here they are!
Had to resize.....
The 1st

And the 2nd

[CB7 Sleeper]

I see, they're nice Nate. I was actually trying to go with something subtle and simple. Kind of like the FL Accords logo. I want something unique, yet simple. Plus, since Cisco doesn't seem to like stickers too much anyway, so if he's gonna have one on his clean ass white project, it's gonna have to be simple, and subtle. I actually am reconsidering the one I had made. I'm gonna try to come up with something new, and I am open to other design ideas of yours as well.

[Status Quo]

Mark, if I take your statement for the truth (with no exaggeration) on the all rear suspension parts being replaced.

Then, I would say your unibody is damaged, not straight. No amount of new parts will fix that problem. If that is the case, you are better off location another straight body CB7 and transferring all your new parts.

I have considered this, however the problem with the rear is not the pulling (from right to left). Its that you can hear two pieces of metal torquing a bolt.

[Status Quo]

Tell me what you guys think. It's simple, and it can be a lot smaller if you'd prefer, (I know Cisco wants something small) but it's just a start to get an idea.

Nate, I'd like to see what you have drawn. Any chance we could get a picture of it?

Hey Man I like it!

[HondaFan81]

Mark,

You did mention in a previous post that your car pulls left and to right, depending on whether accelerating or decelerating. Why do you think it is not related to rear?

Obvious noises should be easy to detect.

I'm sure I'll see you around this year, we'll see what's up then. Unless you figure it out earlier. Either way, you should familiarize yourself with what was actually done in your rear suspension. Otherwise, I would have no confidence in my vehicle knowing it is safe.


Kevin,

I can't see photos at work, will later.

[HondaFan81]

Honestly, I do not like either sticker options. Not much of a sticker guy either. I'm not sure if I'd sport any in an obvious place, unnecessary attention.

[megarock15]

Cisco you should put on the firewall. Good low key spot IMO.

[CB7 Sleeper]

Honestly, I do not like either sticker options. Not much of a sticker guy either. I'm not sure if I'd sport any in an obvious place, unnecessary attention.

Eh, I figured. I don't really like mine myself.

[Status Quo]

Mark,

You did mention in a previous post that your car pulls left and to right, depending on whether accelerating or decelerating. Why do you think it is not related to rear?

Obvious noises should be easy to detect.

I'm sure I'll see you around this year, we'll see what's up then. Unless you figure it out earlier. Either way, you should familiarize yourself with what was actually done in your rear suspension. Otherwise, I would have no confidence in my vehicle knowing it is safe.


Kevin,

I can't see photos at work, will later.

I know what was done to the car as I helped him replace most of the stuff. (Control Arms, Cross-member or I-Beam whatever you call it, Struts... etc)

The noise in the rear is a bolt and am having it replaced.

The pulling is obviously coming from the front. You can feel it when you drive. Its kind of hard to explain. If we meet I will let you drive it.

I tend to exaggerate problems as I am sensitive to them! haha!

Thanks for trying to Help!

~Mark

[BBuncky2]

Update

So here's a little update for you guys. This weekend, I talked to Cisco, and I have to just tell you guys that we have a great friend in that guy! It all started when I realized that my car is leaking oil like crazy. More than it ever has. I've been worried about it for weeks now. So this past weekend, I got under my car and checked things out with a flashlight. Turns out there's oil ALL over the bottom of my transmission and steering rack and rubber exhaust hanger and front-to-back cross member (those four are the only three I can remember, but they it's mostly on the bottom of the transmission). So I couldn't figure out where it's coming from.

Out of desperation, I called the expert. I only just asked for a minute of his time but he ended up giving me 30 minutes! He advised that from what I saw (no oil on the timing belt side) that it looks like the rear main seal (crankshaft seal).

So that means removal of the transmission.

If that's the case, then I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I don't have access to a high lift or really anyone who can help me. I've never done anything that major before to a vehicle. Should I even TRY to find a way to get it fixed (myself or otherwise)?

Is it worth it at this point with this car? On the one hand, I JUST a few weeks ago put new tires on the car. A few months ago, I put all new struts and springs (GOOD quality ones, at that). On the other hand, she's an old car. Maybe I could get away with selling her to someone on the forums who's much more knowledgeable. I'm sure they'd take care of her well. She's still got a lot of value to cb7 tuners.

What do you guys think?

[HondaFan81]

Brett,

I know you have invested time, money and effort in this car. I applaud that you did much of the work yourself and like your attitude. You may not know how, but you do research and figure it out. I think you are so close to having a reliable, long lasting car.

Personally, I think you will be hard pressed to find a car just as cheap overall (insurance, being it's probably paid off, etc) that will NOT require additional work to bring it up to par. I can almost guarantee whatever car you replace it with will be a whole new can of worms!

Just make sure you keep the ATF and motor oil in their appropriate levels. You can put in cheaper stuff, due to oil loss. Dex/Mer IV for ATF and conventional 5W30 motor oil. I found that buying the 1 gallon motor oil containers is cheaper than by the quart. Change oil filter every 7K miles. Keep this up to not damage anything, save as you can. It will get fixed, just wait it out.

Bottomline, you seem like somewhat of a perfectionist (we're alike here). The reality is, you will not come close to buying anything used in the overall condition of you car with all that you have done (I know, I've helped & driven it!). You will have to buy new and frankly, that will put you in the hole bigtime and you have a family to think about! New baby is not cheap. So don't make an irrational decision man, it will bite you in a$$ later...

[HondaFan81]

Mark,

If it is easy as getting some new OEM Honda fasteners (no hardware store crap, key suspension components are engineered stronger) for rear suspension fix, then get it done!

Well, you did not explain the pulling came from front. It could come from either front or rear, if you did not know. I assumed rear with all problems you described and am not convinced (until driving) that it is coming from front.

If it is from front, simple inspection needs to be done, tire conditions checked. Replace what is necessary and alignment. All should be could.

However, I do recall you said that a good alignment could NOT be achieved on your car. Where were the numbers off (front or rear)? Whichever area is off, could very well be reason for the pulling. This NEEDS to be corrected for any chance of the vehicle driving straight...period. The fact it can not be aligned properly says there is something bent/damaged, extremely worn or was not properly installed in prevoius fixes that is throwing it off. There is no other explanations...it is really simple. As I said before, if something is bent/damaged in unibody, there is no amount of new part replacements that will fix. You have to pull frame straight, weld in another frame section or start with another straight shell.

I know these suspension man, at one point my family had 6 cb7s and I restored brakes and suspension in all of them, 2 with many aftermarket components (my cars). I have fixed several other Hondas and non-Hondas as well. I can do this in my sleep and Brett can tell you I have practically all suspension torques memorized. So everything I said is from experience.

BTW, I think you meant rear cross member and we have shocks, not struts. Struts are part of the locating suspension assembly (usually no upper control arms), where shocks can be removed and structure still stands (our case).

[Status Quo]

I would be more than happy to let you drive it, I think you will come to the same conclusion. I greatly appreciate your experience and am more than willing to learn a thing or two. I should have been more specific. I think my vocabulary is lapsing as I am not used to working on Honda's. None the Less the work done is clearly visible and readily available to the eye. I am more of a visual person, and can point directly out whats been done and what hasn't. Very "Hands On" if you may.

When reflecting on previous comments, I did not take into consideration that you didn't have much background knowledge. In Hindsight, I didn't inform you of a lot.

When you jack the vehicle up, I am not sure if you are aware of how to check for Caster and Canter? Well in the front you can barely feel a bit of a Caster. The rear is secure.

My frustration with wheel alignments is that I got one after I had a new part of my suspension replaced... and they began to add up. I simply have to go back and get "hopefully" a final one done.

Thanks Again!