Mark, you are confusing me and the technical names you give components are misleading. I will just wait until I personally get to check out your car and let you know my suggestions, if you want them.
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostMark, you are confusing me and the technical names you give components are misleading. I will just wait until I personally get to check out your car and let you know my suggestions, if you want them.
Cisco, PM me. I am wondering when I should bring the car out considering the tranny is really goin' now. It's getting hard to get in gear and stay in gear. I'd like to bring it out ASAP after I give you some more funds to work with on the 9th. Let me know.
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hey cisco i have a question, is it normal for my thermometer to read below the C when driving? Evan after my car has warmed up to operating temperature when i drive it will still goes below the line.
92 LX N/A rust bucket restoration RIP
91 DX Coupe to 9293 EX Coupe restoration
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Scott,
No, not normal. Coolant temp needle should make it to 1/3 above lowest point for normal operating temp.
Either your coolant temp sensor is bad (under dizzy, fastened to cyl head, single wire) or thermostat is stuck open.
After a reasonable drive, park & idle. Feel your lower radiator hose, should be warm/hot. If cold, then replace thermostat. If hot, then coolant temp sensor needs to be replaced. Either fix will require draining coolant a good amount, replacing part, then refilling coolant system and bleeding.
PM me if you need help or have further problems.Last edited by HondaFan81; 02-03-2010, 11:33 AM.
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Sorry Guys!
I really AM NOT trying to be confusing. Like I said before. I am not familiar with Honda's, but many of my terms do parallel with cars I have worked on in the past. I am trying to be as generic as I can to get the location of parts understood, as to thats all that really matters. If you can just politely correct me where I am wrong it will help me to piece things together. My intention is not to be "Misleading". Why I would try to mislead anyone i do not know. Otherwise, I don't know why I would ask for help...?
And YES Like I've said before I am here to learn and would LOVE to pick up a thing or two!
I will try to be as detailed as possible...
Yes I was referring to Camber, Caster, and Toe.
There is an old trick my dad taught me to check for Camber, Caster, and Toe. I was asking if you were aware of how to check for it? If not, it is irrelevant. I was just curious.
From my understanding a car can have a negative Caster. If the caster is different from side to side, the vehicle will pull to the side with the less positive caster. (Hence the Pulling) Would you consider this a possibility as to the pulling? Should I just take it in for wheel alignment?
The ONLY reason I am not thinking that its the Unibody... is because I asked specifically if there was anything else that needed to be replaced. The Mechanic said that it had been inspected after the wreck, and nothing else would need to be replaced. (Now as to how he did that or if it was just the mechanics word... I am unaware.) He said - the wheel was all that got hit. It wasn't the car. So it only impacted the suspension.
As for anything else. Just post on my page. I don't really want to take any more space up in this thread... I feel like I'm taking up a lot of space...
Thanks!
P.S. - Thanks Kevin! haha! Sasha needed one! She looked real clean for a while... aaand then the slush came... >=-[Last edited by Status Quo; 02-03-2010, 04:31 PM.
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Mark,
If my memory serves right, you said your alignment numbers were off and could not be obtained by whatever shop. If this is true, the alignment results will tell you where the problem is, specifically which corner of vehicle. Please post if so.
Yes, caster can cause pulling. However, you are hypothetically taking stabs at your problem, rather than taking the information you have from the vehicle and using it to point you in a logical direction.
FYI, caster is preset from factory on our cars and set via washer shims on front radius rods. Once set, they should never be off, unless damage occurred. Camber is not adjustable in front either, unless aftermarket components installed.
Front and rear toe can only be adjusted. However, adjusting toe can change camber indirectly & slightly.
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Yes you are right... I couldn't obtain the numbers. They don't have them on record, but I will take it to a shop and get it posted.
Thanks!Last edited by HondaFan81; 02-05-2010, 09:43 AM.
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostFrankly man, you should already known this information and had possession of it. You paid for the work, they should have provided it, that's just BS the shop did not provide. Not very impressed by what you describe of their work.
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