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New Clutch not Disengaging. Took back Apart. Nothing looks Wrong??

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    New Clutch not Disengaging. Took back Apart. Nothing looks Wrong??

    Really need some help. Thank you in advance for your time looking at the post.

    Car is a 92 coupe EX. H22A. Recently had stock F trans. Car was running and driving all good. Found a T2T4 in the junkyard. Decided to swap it in, along with a New

    Exedy Stage 1 Clutch kit and a lighter weight flywheel. Also decided to ditch the factory clutch damper and install a new S2K style Master Cylinder w/ a steel braided

    line, down to a New exedy slave cylinder. I followed EricTheCarGuy's video on the clutch install so I am pretty sure I had it all installed correctly. After putting

    everything back. Trans will not go in gear with engine on. Will go in all gears fine with engine off. If I put it in gear first, then start it, it just lock in gear and jumps

    forward. Clutch is not disengaging. I bled, and bled, and BLED. That can't be the issue. Trans is good because, with the engine on, my buddy (dreamability71) was able

    to raise the rpms just right to line the synchros up and put it in all the gears. He also tried to put washers in-between the clutch fork and slave pin to make sure we

    were getting the full extension. Didn't work. Tried different clutch pedal adjustments. Another thing we noticed is my fork moves 1 inch, while dreamability71's fork

    moves 2 inches, when fully engaged. After trying everything we could. Took it back all apart. Not seeing anything obviously wrong. One thing we figured out that is

    suspect is, the aftermarket lighter weight flywheel is about 12 mm thinner than my stock one. Is this Normal for lightweight flywheels?? Other than that, dreamability71

    told me we could try bench testing the pressure plate. We're thinking its something with either the flywheel or pressure plate.

    This is the flywheel I'm using : FX RACING CLUTCH FLYWHEEL for 97-99 ACURA 2.2CL 2.3CL 90-02 ACCORD F22 F23 | eBay

    This is the Clutch kit I'm using : Exedy Stage 1 Racing Clutch Kit for Honda F-Series H-Series F22 F23 H22 H23 | eBay

    I'd really appreciate the help. Kinda lost motivation after running into this and she's just been sitting. But it's a good car with a strong H22 and really wanna get it on the road again. Thanks!
    Last edited by boulky12; 01-24-2021, 01:11 PM.

    #2
    Hey Allen,
    Sorry this still isn't working, Have you tried putting the stock flywheel on and seeing if that changes anything? I am running a stock OEM flywheel on mine and 12mm could make a difference.
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
      Hey Allen,
      Sorry this still isn't working, Have you tried putting the stock flywheel on and seeing if that changes anything? I am running a stock OEM flywheel on mine and 12mm could make a difference.
      Hey Nick!

      Thanks for chiming in. I have not put the stock flywheel back on and tried it because I really don't want to keep taking the trans back off haha. But I hear ya. Seems weird that there's that 12mm difference. Definitely have my suspicions about it. But would like to be sure before I put everything back again. And also I really want to take advantage of a lightweight flywheel since I'm not making a whole lot of power and plan to stay All motor for now. I guess I would just use the stock one if I have to.. But this one should work. Says its for F and H series??

      Comment


        #4
        It does seem like you aren’t getting full disengagement of the clutch. I actually didn’t think to measure the thickness of my stock flywheel versus my lightweight aftermarket one, that could be a factor. I think you could start with the hydraulic system; it seems that the 1 inch disengagement vs Dreamability’s known working car having 2 inch disengagement. The problem could be as simple as a defective slave cylinder.
        http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

        Comment


          #5
          I was thinking that as well on the slave, do you have your old slave? I would throw it on do a quick bleed until you have some pedal response and see what happens.
          ~Nick~
          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by SSMAccord View Post
            It does seem like you aren’t getting full disengagement of the clutch. I actually didn’t think to measure the thickness of my stock flywheel versus my lightweight aftermarket one, that could be a factor. I think you could start with the hydraulic system; it seems that the 1 inch disengagement vs Dreamability’s known working car having 2 inch disengagement. The problem could be as simple as a defective slave cylinder.
            Thanks for your input bud. I do have my old slave still, that I know was working good. Def worth a shot next time I have the trans back up. I didn't even think of doing this cuz I put a brand New Exedy slave, but you never know.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
              I was thinking that as well on the slave, do you have your old slave? I would throw it on do a quick bleed until you have some pedal response and see what happens.
              I do. Damn I shoulda tried this before I took the trans back out haha. Oh well. If we cant figure out anything wrong with the flywheel and pressure plate, I'll try my old slave when I put the trans back up.

              Comment


                #8
                Ya, have to agree with others. If you're not seeing the 2" fork deflection then it's a hydraulic issue. The 12m may not make a difference but a different throw out bearing would be the answer if major adjustments are needed. IE: For dual clutch in a B series transmission they recommend shaving down the outer ring of the throw out bearing (that contacts the clutch) to get proper clearances.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                  Ya, have to agree with others. If you're not seeing the 2" fork deflection then it's a hydraulic issue. The 12m may not make a difference but a different throw out bearing would be the answer if major adjustments are needed. IE: For dual clutch in a B series transmission they recommend shaving down the outer ring of the throw out bearing (that contacts the clutch) to get proper clearances.
                  Got it. Thank you very much for your input.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Did you modify the s2000 master cylinder at all? They don't have the same overall length or shaft length, so they need to be modified to work fully (but I can't remember what needs to be modified at the moment). Either swap back to the OEM master cylinder, or look up what needs to be modded on the s2k master.

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                      #11
                      My car was down for MONTHS with clutch issues. Brand new clutch, no disengagement. I bled it 5 times, 5 different ways. No dice.
                      Eventually, my friend came over and pried at the fork with a long pipe. That did the trick. Clutch worked fine after that.






                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        My car was down for MONTHS with clutch issues. Brand new clutch, no disengagement. I bled it 5 times, 5 different ways. No dice.
                        Eventually, my friend came over and pried at the fork with a long pipe. That did the trick. Clutch worked fine after that.
                        A stuck release bearing / fork ?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Update: I found that the brass pilot bearing on the aftermarket lightweight flywheel was a little smaller inner diameter than the pilot bearing from the exedy clutch kit by .1mm. I could also tell cuz the clutch alignment tool was harder to get thru. I thought this was the issue. That it was sticking.

                          I went to install the exedy pilot bearing into the aftermarket flywheel, but fit way too loose. Not going to work. At this point it was either go to machine shop, buy new flywheel, or use stock flywheel again. Really want to feel the advantage of the light flywheel, so 75 bucks later at the machine shop. Now the exedy pilot bearing is on.

                          So I thought this was the fix. Put all the clutch back. Trans back up. Installed just the shifter cables, axles, and few other things just to test first. Started her up. I was able to get in gear, was able to disengage/engage the clutch successfully several times. I was like Cool it works. Put everything else back, set her down on the ground. Now it won't go in gear again.. same problem as before


                          I think its 1 of 2 things. This stupid flywheel or this junkyard trans. I do think the trans is fine so next move, I'm just gonna drop the trans again and try installing the stock flywheel..

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by steelbluesleepR View Post
                            Did you modify the s2000 master cylinder at all? They don't have the same overall length or shaft length, so they need to be modified to work fully (but I can't remember what needs to be modified at the moment). Either swap back to the OEM master cylinder, or look up what needs to be modded on the s2k master.
                            Yes. I got the idea from Grumpys93, who's done it. And he walked me thru it. Told me just to swap the Accord rod onto the S2K cmc and be good to go. So thats what I did.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                              My car was down for MONTHS with clutch issues. Brand new clutch, no disengagement. I bled it 5 times, 5 different ways. No dice.
                              Eventually, my friend came over and pried at the fork with a long pipe. That did the trick. Clutch worked fine after that.
                              Wow def worth a shot. Did he pry on it while you pressed the pedal? Or how? And which direction? I'm guessing towards the passenger side.

                              Comment

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