Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

Ahhh it's a 3rd part knock sensor, cool. Thanks.

[Rilas]

Raf that is definitely long term damage due to detonation. Due to the limitations of our ECU's and Honda's having shitty knock sensors in general. It's hard to tune them for knock as that may have been inaudible knock and was just enough to slowly damage the forged pistons in there. If they had been cast they definitely would have broken.

Aside from upgrade the car to an entirely different ECU platform and rewiring part of the car, there is this solution for knocking. I was looking at it years ago. But now with the supercharger and the water/meth setup I'm thinking about this again. Your post just brought it up that much faster.

This will detect knock and retard the timing and then automatically add it back slowly until it's back where it should be. This would have prevented your pistons from looking like they currently do and you might have netted another 10 years out of the motor. The cost isn't that bad either if I remember right.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/NewUni...alVersion.html

[Raf99]

I know the tuner always said "anymore and we need meth". So I'm guessing he had ignition turned up and was maxing everything out already, I'm really not sure. May stop in to see him today.

[SSMAccord]

Excellent progress. That old piston seems to be suffering from long term detonation.

[Raf99]

Sooo in the end my issue was a ring issue. When I tried to take the rings off the old pistons the top ring was stuck. Where the (assumed) detonation was happening it compressed the piston top down and the ring was stuck.
Quite the ... damage. I'm still not 100% sure what would cause this. IE: Maybe a meth kit would of prevented this with the mix / HP setup. Maybe it's normal for pushing 400+HP for 10 years. A/F was always in check as per the map.



Anywho... on with the show. This shot put a smile on the face when I first seen it.


We are doing new pistons, rings, wrist pins, clips, and rod bearings. First time, but it's super easy once you get use to putting the clips in.








Old

[Raf99]

Meh, I beat it in using a roll of duct tape.









Will touch up the paint and bob's your uncle.

[Raf99]

Do I need a tool to do this?






Still soaking, beating, torching these two bolts. Just need one of them out. Waiting for more T50 bits to arrive.

[Raf99]

Should be done... ( never understand how these should come out haha)


Go Hondoo




Done...


(New, old, hole. This is the bearing cap side). Had to think about this for a while. but I get it now.... "racing bearings".


Clean as a whistle...






Scraped off all of the old glue. Anyone have any ideas on how to pound the new one in without the tool ?


Ahh yes. this thing. I got the block from someone else back in the day. It was just a spare block that I could "work on". Prior owner hack-sawed the block for a turbo manifold.
Looked worse than this prior....it had hack-saw blade marks throughout...

[Raf99]

Yaaa... will try that. So far, no go & broke another bit. Both bolts will move 2mm, no more.
I have been filing / recording these ventures as well but no time to do the video editing. Time will tell....

Other updates; finally got some locktite 609 as instructed by kstuned instructions. So we can now continue on with building this beast. I think I need some honda bond though... need some kind of good sealer for the oil pump assembly.... and all the other parts that had it.

The smaller plug you could just rubber hammer in. The larger plug proved to be a huge issue (like one of their other plugs.....oh ya, the ... belt blocker you hammer on the bearing.) Just would not go in. So I sanded the plug down, added some 609 and used the vice to press it in.

Next up.... we have to do piston rings and pins. Something I will admit I've never done in my life... weeee

[Domesticated]

That's galvonic corrosion from the stainless bolt and the aluminum caliper! Try letting it soak it hot distilled water for a day or two. You could add some base detergents to help. Definitely take a torch to the bolt, that will break it the fastest. After the torch and soak, give it some PB blaster to soak in.

[Raf99]

I can weld but using that as a last option. Welding is just going to mess up shit, possibly deform the caliper if not done properly. Was hoping to keep the OEM bolts too.

[CyborgGT]

Can you weld? Or have a shop weld a strong 6-point nut onto that torx head so you can use a normal socket? Then from there just get replacement bolts for the rebuild.

[Raf99]

I did have another allen-key bit, but I broke that too. Meanwhile I've been beating on this thing! Soakikng it daily. Heating it, beating it... ug. Sooo I bought another "stronger one" and put her on the impact gun...



Nope...


5.... bits down


Then I got creative and separated the pieces by pivoting them using a big hammer.... even after they came apart the bolt was still stuck (although it has no threads holding it in)



Yaaa.. not sure it would of ever came out. Maybe with a stronger torch...



Now for the not fun news. The other caliper has the two outer bolts stuck in the same fashion

[Raf99]

Uh-huh...., well the bolt is a strong bolt. Can say that for sure. A propane torch on the caliper for 5min, nothing. Going to order another impact socket type T50 and try the big gun....





Straight from Hondo. Rear main seal / front main seal. Oil filter, spark plugs, and more knuckle bolts because I can't have one side not matching the other

[Raf99]

Yep. Now waiting on Locktite 609 which is coming from India... ; to hold the caps in on the oil pump plate. Besides this I'm stripping down the calipers for paint. All seals have to be removed, etc. I've spent a good week trying to get one bolt out of a caliper..... and I'm not sure what to do....
- We have soaked the bolt for days...
- I've bean on the top / shock it
- I've used heat (propane torch)

Most I can make it move is 1mm.



Broken...


Got a better one......... broken...


Got this thing now..... it's huge!







Still....... cannot get the bolt to move. Haven't stripped it yet.