H311RA151N : 1993 Accord EX

[DCB7]

You can hook the IAB pod thing to a vacuum port and it "works". I've heard people say it causes them to open to soon but at least they are closed at low RPM's. With the IAB's open before on the F22A6 intake I could feel it act sluggish down low.

I just plugged the MAP sensor in that I had just like the old one was. It was from a 1993 LX with an F22A1.

Cool. I think I have the same throttle body as you do. Some have two map sensors on it, that require re-wiring from the black box, good to know it plugs right in.

I have the black box for the IABs, and the PT6 ECU. I have to read up more on wiring it to work, with the vacuum port trick as a back up.

I had my f22a6 runners sitting outside for a few seasons (covered in plastic) and showing some oxidation. Would you trust it to put it on your car, after a clean up like you did?

Oh the valve I was talking about is the fast idle valve under the throttle body, I heard it could be blocked off, but would cause low idle warm ups

also did you transfer the throttle cable bracket from the f22 to the H plenum? I heard there are problems with adjusting the H one once installed.

[DCB7]

sorry for all the questions man, lol. Trying to get the first hand experience word on it.

but, is that the stock f22 intake tube on the H throttle body?

[H311RA151N]

Cool. I think I have the same throttle body as you do. Some have two map sensors on it, that require re-wiring from the black box, good to know it plugs right in.

I have the black box for the IABs, and the PT6 ECU. I have to read up more on wiring it to work, with the vacuum port trick as a back up.

I had my f22a6 runners sitting outside for a few seasons (covered in plastic) and showing some oxidation. Would you trust it to put it on your car, after a clean up like you did?

Oh the valve I was talking about is the fast idle valve under the throttle body, I heard it could be blocked off, but would cause low idle warm ups

also did you transfer the throttle cable bracket from the f22 to the H plenum? I heard there are problems with adjusting the H one once installed.

Never seen a second MAP before. Until dealing with this one I had never seen a CB7/9 MAP before. If your sure some have two then you must be ahead of me on it. I've never seen two before myself.

Yeah just scrub it real well or if you have a parts wash like I do. It'll come clean.

I don't block anything off myself. I do belive the FITV is to the right of the IACV on the F22A6 and on the bottom of the TB on the H23A1 but don't quote me on that. Long and hot day today and I may not be thinking correctly.

I did not transfer the throttle bracket. It was already from a 5 speed. My throttle body is actually of a JDM F22B DOHC out of a JDM 97-01 Prelude. Much like the H23A1. But no, it had the correct wheel already. My throttle cable needed adjusted out quite a bit but it's very much safe and everything, just a lot of adjusting it out is all. In my case anyhow.

sorry for all the questions man, lol. Trying to get the first hand experience word on it.

but, is that the stock f22 intake tube on the H throttle body?

Don't worry about it man, to me no question is a stupid question. I'll answer Q's 'till I'm blue in the face.

Yes it is. It's all I got ATM and I don't drive it hard. Some say they have stretched it but mine is from an F22A1, I think most people try the F22A6 tube which is a bit bigger on the H23A1. There is NO making mine fit it without taking material off the inside lip which is what I done.

[DCB7]

Never seen a second MAP before. Until dealing with this one I had never seen a CB7/9 MAP before. If your sure some have two then you must be ahead of me on it. I've never seen two before myself.

Yeah just scrub it real well or if you have a parts wash like I do. It'll come clean.

I don't block anything off myself. I do belive the FITV is to the right of the IACV on the F22A6 and on the bottom of the TB on the H23A1 but don't quote me on that. Long and hot day today and I may not be thinking correctly.

I did not transfer the throttle bracket. It was already from a 5 speed. My throttle body is actually of a JDM F22B DOHC out of a JDM 97-01 Prelude. Much like the H23A1. But no, it had the correct wheel already. My throttle cable needed adjusted out quite a bit but it's very much safe and everything, just a lot of adjusting it out is all. In my case anyhow.





Don't worry about it man, to me no question is a stupid question. I'll answer Q's 'till I'm blue in the face.

Yes it is. It's all I got ATM and I don't drive it hard. Some say they have stretched it but mine is from an F22A1, I think most people try the F22A6 tube which is a bit bigger on the H23A1. There is NO making mine fit it without taking material off the inside lip which is what I done.

Thanks man

I came across a couple like this for sale online, but passed because of the rewiring I read about. Seems the one I got is a H23 or F22b (guy told me it was a H22)

Parts washer...is what I don't have. Cant seem to get rid of the white spots on the runners, I will try a dremel tool.

I want to keep my stock tube if possible, so if that's all it takes, Ill do it like you did,

Thanks for taking the time I like the progress you've made on it

[DCB7]

Actually i looked at mine and it has a extra vacuum port at the top where yours only has some holes(probably for that extra sensor) which i found out is called the tps

I think what they do is get another plug like goes into the side, and the 3 wires going into the map in the black box on the firewall connect those to the new plug, plug it in and they're cool (i think) Simple as it sounds i didn't want to do it

Just want to clarify. I would pull up the link but im on a phone. I definitely read it in a thread on this forum though

[H311RA151N]

Thanks man

I came across a couple like this for sale online, but passed because of the rewiring I read about. Seems the one I got is a H23 or F22b (guy told me it was a H22)

Parts washer...is what I don't have. Cant seem to get rid of the white spots on the runners, I will try a dremel tool.

I want to keep my stock tube if possible, so if that's all it takes, Ill do it like you did,

Thanks for taking the time I like the progress you've made on it

I have a Harbor Freight parts wash. The solvent is expensive and the pump my parts wash came with gave out within the first few minutes. But pumps made to handle solvents are cheap online and good ones are around $20.

A Dremel may polish the runners in a way depending on what you use. But still will work just a bit different then cleaning or so I'd guess.

My stock tube is still on there, doing well. Bored it out so to speak and it works well. A little smaller than what the F22A6 or H23A1 TB would like but I have modified the intake box a bit which hopefully makes up for a bit of lost volume in the tube it being a little smaller.

No problem, thank you and thanks for taking interests in my CB/MRT.

Actually i looked at mine and it has a extra vacuum port at the top where yours only has some holes(probably for that extra sensor) which i found out is called the tps

I think what they do is get another plug like goes into the side, and the 3 wires going into the map in the black box on the firewall connect those to the new plug, plug it in and they're cool (i think) Simple as it sounds i didn't want to do it

Just want to clarify. I would pull up the link but im on a phone. I definitely read it in a thread on this forum though

Mine is off an ODB-2 engine/car. That's the difference between the MAP on the firewall or the MAP on the TB or that's to the best of my knowledge anyhow.

IDK what your referring to as TPS and holes for it. Every TB has a TPS.

The MAP wiring is easy. I read it on here was well. If you delete the EGR valve which requires tuning capabilities then with the MAP on the TB the black box on the firewall can be deleted all together.

[H311RA151N]

Found a spoiler off a 1992 EX coupe at the salvage yard the other day. Been looking for a while!






I also did a 134A retrofit. Removed every line off the car, replaced every o-ring that can be replaced, flushed all the lines, disassembled a Denso compressor, cleaned it then reinstalled it along with Denso suction and discharge lines and places 7 ounces of Ester oil in the system. Now I have cold A/C and it works fantastically.



As you can see, she's-a-spinnin'!

[DCB7]

I need AC!! Spoiler looks good, perfect colour match too? nice find I would have thought the parts wash was a lot more expensive. I was going to try a wire wheel on the dremel to attack the oxidation spots one by one, its all over the mating surfaces which is what worries me. Dont want any leaks. Just looking for tips so my swap can go smoothly.

I figured you already knew about the black box thing...but check this out

I got this throttle body from someone on craigslist for $20

The sticker on the front says 11OBD, and there is a vacuum port at the top (like the f22). Yours has three tapped holes on top instead, is what i was talking about. Thing is I got all my pieces separately, (runners from junkyard, H22 plenum from a local cb7tuner) and the college kid i bought this TB from was sketchy, so Im not fully sure what it came off. i haven't come across a mrt with one like this yet but it should work

Anyway, congrats on the upgrades man. Inspires me to get mine done

[H311RA151N]

I need AC!! Spoiler looks good, perfect colour match too? nice find I would have thought the parts wash was a lot more expensive. I was going to try a wire wheel on the dremel to attack the oxidation spots one by one, its all over the mating surfaces which is what worries me. Dont want any leaks. Just looking for tips so my swap can go smoothly.

I figured you already knew about the black box thing...but check this out



The sticker on the front says 11OBD, and there is a vacuum port at the top (like the f22). Yours has three tapped holes on top instead, is what i was talking about. Thing is I got all my pieces separately, (runners from junkyard, H22 plenum from a local cb7tuner) and the college kid i bought this TB from was sketchy, so Im not fully sure what it came off. i haven't come across a mrt with one like this yet but it should work

Anyway, congrats on the upgrades man. Inspires me to get mine done

I see what your saying, I wish I had the extra vacuum port.

The A/C system took about 13 hours as two of the fittings on the lines were a bitch (stuck). And I had to disassemble 3 compressors. It was pretty damn cheap though. It took 4 cans of R134A but of course some of that was lost purging.

I used the Harbor Freight $20 vacuum "box" too. It got me to -30 Hg and held it for as long as I needed so it was just as good as anything. Two 40 gallon compressors ran tandem in parallel helps too though. 7cfm and 140psi.

[DCB7]

I see what your saying, I wish I had the extra vacuum port.

The A/C system took about 13 hours as two of the fittings on the lines were a bitch (stuck). And I had to disassemble 3 compressors. It was pretty damn cheap though. It took 4 cans of R134A but of course some of that was lost purging.

I used the Harbor Freight $20 vacuum "box" too. It got me to -30 Hg and held it for as long as I needed so it was just as good as anything. Two 40 gallon compressors ran tandem in parallel helps too though. 7cfm and 140psi.

Lost me completely

I do need AC though. It's hot as hell

[F22Chris]

How did you get to 30 on planet earth? Mind is blown. Nice dig too, man. Looks good!

[H311RA151N]

Lost me completely

I do need AC though. It's hot as hell

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vac...ors-96677.html

How did you get to 30 on planet earth? Mind is blown. Nice dig too, man. Looks good!

^^ That's what I used.

[F22Chris]

Sig not dig sorry auto correct

[DCB7]

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vac...ors-96677.html



^^ That's what I used.

Thanks for the link, that's cheap. I got it now. I had to do some reading to understand the terminology. (Glad I don't need 2 NASA Super air compressors to do it) Is it run by air? The gauges I can borrow from a store

Actually Oyajicool tried to do this for me but my ac compressor was no good. Tried again with another used compressor, but it didn't work. Then I gave up.

Saw some deals on comp. + dryer kits on ebay for $125. Might give it another try.
thanks man

[H311RA151N]

Thanks for the link, that's cheap. I got it now. I had to do some reading to understand the terminology. (Glad I don't need 2 NASA Super air compressors to do it) Is it run by air? The gauges I can borrow from a store

Actually Oyajicool tried to do this for me but my ac compressor was no good. Tried again with another used compressor, but it didn't work. Then I gave up.

Saw some deals on comp. + dryer kits on ebay for $125. Might give it another try.
thanks man

I was surprised that it did work actually. But once I read the science behind it I figured if the piece was built right it would most definitely do the job.

I consider my compressors small or on the small side of medium. I used to run one to death and got tired of hearing it all the time so I got another one and ran them tandem. The A/C deal made them run non-stop but the pressure on the line coming out didn't drop much so they were at least keeping up.

That sucks about your compressor. He would do a good job for you I'm sure. Hopefully you get it going man, and your welcome!