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SSMAccord : 1992 Accord EX

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya, i see what you mean. wow, got lucky.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Hmmm but the crank bolt coming out + key can't affect timing. The timing belt is on another pulley under the cover. I had this happen to me too before but it just came out and rattled against the side of the engine bay (got stuck), sounded like a lawn mower was in my bay. Obviously the pulley key came out and the alternator / PS belts were not functioning, so the car shut off since the battery was dying. So maybe your alternator belt stopped, and you just drained the battery?
    At first glance it didn't look like anything was wrong other than the timing not spinning while trying to crank the engine over. It wasn't until I went to take the cover off that realized what happened. The key wasn't totally out, neither was the crank pulley. It was out just far enough that the inner timing gear was disengaged but the balance belt was moving in sequence.





    Not my image, but this shows how the key engages the gears. The key locks the crank to the timing and balance gear and the pulley holds the key in compression when it it bolted in place. Mine came out just enough that the inner gear was disengaged. The key wasn't even bent, perhaps because I was at idle when it finally worked its way loose.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Hmmm but the crank bolt coming out + key can't affect timing. The timing belt is on another pulley under the cover. I had this happen to me too before but it just came out and rattled against the side of the engine bay (got stuck), sounded like a lawn mower was in my bay. Obviously the pulley key came out and the alternator / PS belts were not functioning, so the car shut off since the battery was dying. So maybe your alternator belt stopped, and you just drained the battery?

    Leave a comment:


  • SSMAccord
    replied
    It couldn't all be smooth sailing could it?

    Since the CB had been the focus for several months of 2020, it was time to get the daily ready for the winter season. Being that my daily is coming up on 16 years old there were a few more dents and some rust starting to form on the rear quarters and such. Somehow this would spiral into doing extensive rust repair and respray. Since the CB was operational, everything was going to plan.




    Of course, as soon as I was past the point of no return for the refinish job the CB decided to up the ante...

    Sitting in traffic coming back from lunch one afternoon the CB just turned off without warning. I thought that was odd since I hadn't stalled the car and it was running normally up until that very moment. Trying to start it was futile and I managed to get it pushed into a nearby parking lot. Got a ride to my house to round up the usual suspects, a main relay, coil and a spare distributor and then set about seeing which of them would get this up and running.

    Main relay? No dice.

    Coil? Nope.

    Distributor? Nah.

    I did notice the rotor wasn't moving despite the cranking of the attempts to start the car. Uh oh... I managed to confirm that something was really broken in the timing side of the engine by pulling the valve cover. By this point the tow truck was in route anyhow. I managed to get it home and pushed off to a quiet corner of the driveway so that I could focus on getting the TL back together. After a few weeks that process was done and I was able to push the CB into the garage and kinda left it for a few weeks since it was the beginning of the holiday season.

    But the CB was also in an inconvenient location in the garage and needed to be able to move under its own power. Thinking that the timing belt had snapped, I figured that I would tear it apart to start the process of taking the timing apart and pulling the head. As I put the impact gun on the crank shaft bolt, it spun off into my hand...that was odd.



    Turns out I likely under torqued the crank bolt and it backed out enough to let the key slide out of the timing gears. Not a snapped belt or failed tensioner, but still bad. REMEMBER TO TORQUE THE CRANK BOLT TO 181 LB.FT + 90, thanks for listening to my TedTalk.



    Since I needed to move the car, I figured I would at least get the timing back in sync and move the car the few feet it needed to move. After a bunch of internet horror stories of bent valves and sheared off crankbolts I knew what to expect. That said, I did buy a new crank bolt from Majestic.

    The car started...without issue. No misfire. No stumble. No expensive, crunchy, clangy sounds. The car moved and it stowed for the winter. I may have the head serviced just to be safe, it may be that a burned valve might occur later. Hmmmm...
    Last edited by SSMAccord; 02-01-2021, 12:28 AM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by mitsubishiv5 View Post
    Have you looked into the legend dust shields? I noticed them at the yard a few times and never thought about using them. Pleasure to cross paths with you
    That is where I got the idea. I was going to try to use the Legend setup by swapping the knuckles over, but I couldn't verify the balljoints would all work with the CB control arms. I think if you tried to use the Legend shields on a front mount setup, the shield would be blocking the caliper mounting ears.

    Watching your rebuild come together is a good time.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
    This car is too well sorted. I'm especially loving those taillights - those are modified red/clears, aren't they? Wish I could do something similar to the wagon's.
    Thanks! It is getting there, but it is definitely not without the unforeseen hurdle or two...

    They are red clears with VHT transparent red applied to the clear area and then covered in protective film to prevent it from getting nicked.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    This car is too well sorted. I'm especially loving those taillights - those are modified red/clears, aren't they? Wish I could do something similar to the wagon's.

    Leave a comment:


  • mitsubishiv5
    replied
    Have you looked into the legend dust shields? I noticed them at the yard a few times and never thought about using them. Pleasure to cross paths with you

    Leave a comment:


  • aleks77
    replied
    Wow dude I didnt realize how much work you've done to this thing! Amazing, love all the updates and photos, super detailed. I love your interior, I was lucky mine came black from factory but I do wanna do the pillars and headliner!

    Leave a comment:


  • SSMAccord
    replied
    2020 Projects / Winter is Coming

    All that was left was to wrap up the install of all of the parts. The new calipers, despite being on the smaller side, would require new wheels. The 17x7 ET55 TSX wheels would not fit over the calipers according to the fitment template. That meant a wider wheel, but I didn't want to go hella wide and deal with wheels that protrude too far from the fenders. I landed on 17x7.5" ET45 TSW Nurburgring wheels as it seemed that they would weigh less, have a slimmer spoke profile and relatively low cost for a wheel that can deal with track use. According to the template it would need a 3mm spacer to clear the calipers. This ended up not being the case, apparently the template is oversized and where they indicated interference there was none. The wheels actually fit with quite a bit of clearance from the calipers without spacers. To keep the rear visually similar and also match the increase in track width, I also decided to add a 5mm spacer to the rear wheels. A fresh set of Direzza Star Specs were sourced as they have proven pretty grippy and sturdy in previous driving excursions, they are also pretty cheap as well.


    Tires

    Rear Spacer



    All Assembled













    I did also decide on badges; A fresh OEM 'H' logo for the trunk lid and an EP3 Union Jack badge. I have always liked this badge for one reason or another. I haven't decided on placement, either where the Accord badge is normally located on the lower trunk lid or where the trim level badge is typically located on the filler panel below the tail light.

    Badging



    By this point it was Autumn and time to wind the CB down for the year since we use salt on the roads here and that is not really something the CB wants to be exposed to. I was able to drive for a couple of weeks though, but I suppose there are a few projects to undertake while the CB is confined to the garage.
    Last edited by SSMAccord; 12-21-2020, 01:06 AM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by PakaloloHonda View Post
    Wow, Thankfully we never had to get THAT detailed when I bought my wagon, but maaannn ...
    My interior was and is still pretty darn clean, but wow ... I thought we did quite a bit of work, lol ...

    AMAZING job my friend!
    Thanks. Your CB is one of the greats though!!

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  • PakaloloHonda
    replied
    Wow, Thankfully we never had to get THAT detailed when I bought my wagon, but maaannn ...
    My interior was and is still pretty darn clean, but wow ... I thought we did quite a bit of work, lol ...

    AMAZING job my friend!

    Leave a comment:


  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by Rilas View Post
    Great job on the ducting. I've been thinking about working on a set of possibly ducts and a set of shields that will help cool the brakes as well.

    Did you actually test fit the Legend brake dust shields. I'm seriously wanting to try this and see if even just redrilling the holes and mounting it will work, instead of building the shields. I'm not opposed to DIY projects and such but a mostly bolt on option is preferable.

    Again great job overall on the brake ducting and cooling setup.
    Thanks.

    I was actually planning to run the entire Legend knuckle, but I wasn't confident the Legend LBJ would fit the CB LCA or that a LBJ that would fit the CB would also press into the Legend knuckle. I don't think that the Legend shield would work on a front mount style knuckle due to the mounting ears needing to occupy that same real estate. That said, the Brembo equipped 3rd Gen TL models (6 speed or Type-S) have a shield that does have a protrusion on it that seems to be meant for directing air to the rotor. I am not sure how effective this part is, but it seems to have been warranted in the engineering process. It also looks like the 2nd Gen RL shield follows a similar style to the TL shield, possibly with the addition of the area above the caliper also being bent to catch air as well.

    TL Brembo Setup
    Last edited by SSMAccord; 12-16-2020, 11:24 PM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
    Incredible ingenuity. I've been wondering about a cold air source for my intake, so I might have to steal that FK8 duct idea from you and tweak it a bit. Looks like it might work perfect with the ducts on my lip. Is your lip from a 240SX, by the way, like Moises'?

    Are you going to be doing a lot of hard driving, though? Because I used to want to get the DC5 ITR brake duct system for my RSX with all the mountain driving I do, but someone I talked to who had it said it cooled the brakes too much for normal street driving, which is of course also unsafe. I ended up being fine just upgrading pads (which admittedly aren't the best in traffic either - Hawk HPSs) and going to slotted rotors. I'm very interested in your experience with this full cooling setup.
    Thanks. This would probably work for that. I am also trying to find a cold air feed location. There are vents facing the ground to the right of the passenger side brake duct that might fit the bill for a fresh air source. Or I may try to route around the power steering pump and feed in air from beside the radiator, a setup similar to how MarcusV8Thunder ran his cold air feed. Luckily, it's winter and I can brainstorm on that while it's inconvenient to be outside tinkering with project cars.

    It will likely attend 5-6 HPDEs a season. It was only 2-3 before. I was running HPS pads before, but now I am running stock S2K pads for street duty and HP+ pads will be the track pad choice. For bedding pads I will have to cover the openings with painter's tape, if I find that the cooling works too well I can either take the ducts off or cover the openings with clear headlamp film as a possible temporary solution.

    It is the S14 Silvia lip, it seemed to have large enough ducts to make the brake ducts work as I intended. It also seemed to have a sleeker aesthetic which also appealed to me. I did have to tweak the lip to make it follow the shape of the CB bumper (rounded rectangle) where the S14 is more of and oval shape. You can see the braces in some of the pics.
    Last edited by SSMAccord; 12-14-2020, 11:48 PM.

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  • Rilas
    replied
    Great job on the ducting. I've been thinking about working on a set of possibly ducts and a set of shields that will help cool the brakes as well.

    Did you actually test fit the Legend brake dust shields. I'm seriously wanting to try this and see if even just redrilling the holes and mounting it will work, instead of building the shields. I'm not opposed to DIY projects and such but a mostly bolt on option is preferable.

    Again great job overall on the brake ducting and cooling setup.

    Leave a comment:

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