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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

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    Nope. Decided I'd spent enough time in there, and it looks good enough.

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      Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
      Nope. Decided I'd spent enough time in there, and it looks good enough.
      This may be a bit of a crazy idea, but those of us that take our wheels off and wax both sides will relate--while you have it stripped down this far, why not give it all a good coat of wax while you're there. If you use something like Nufiinish that isn't carnuba based that will break down, it should keep a lot of the crud from building up again.

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        I'm already well into reassembly for that. I've got the whole driver frame rail back together, and just about all of the firewall. Fluid leaks from here on out will be kept on top of, so buildup shouldn't be a problem. Good to know that about carnauba, though.

        Also forgot that I still need to take my Accord/Prelude power steering lines to a shop for splicing together, which I probably won't have the time for until Monday...

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          Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
          I'm already well into reassembly for that. I've got the whole driver frame rail back together, and just about all of the firewall. Fluid leaks from here on out will be kept on top of, so buildup shouldn't be a problem. Good to know that about carnauba, though.
          Gotcha. I wish I would have thought of it earlier, but no biggie if you keep it clean anyways.

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            It looks like a I have a lot of reading to do, awesome work man.
            CB7TUNER.com
            Educating each other one car at a time.

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              This is my type of fun, and your attention to detail is on point. Keep it comin'.
              The Lord watches over me!

              "...You will never see my Ferrari unless you catch me in traffic..."

              - Anthony

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                Was waiting to hit a good point to post an update...


                First off, anyone know off hand what these are, mounted behind the driver side headlight?




                I think I may have actually found the cause of my engine randomly dying in the old sedan, which prompted me to move on. This is in the VTEC sub-harness:




                Prepping the main engine harness, swapping in the RDX injector connectors. IACV wires also needed to be extended since that's now mounted on the back of the IM:




                Oil pressure sensor teed into the stock one. Teflon taped this whole setup:




                A local branch of Tubes 'N Hoses made this up for me. CB lower, BB6 upper, with a swivel fitting to avoid issues with clocking:




                Trying to ditch the stiff ESP mounts to make the car more comfortable, I picked up Anchor brand rear and driver side rubber engine mounts. In an effort to make them last longer, I filled them with 3M medium viscosity windshield sealer (part# 08693) that hardens to 50-55A. Their Windo-Weld is a bit firmer at 55-60A.




                Taking advantage of the empty engine bay, I plumbed some wiring in from the cabin. Fog lights, the glove box gauges, VTEC sub-harness, and the reverse light wiring that I put off during the manual conversion:




                Used P-clips to secure the clutch line and EGT wiring out of the way. I ended up having to remove the clutch line from that lower clip since it didn't allow the slave to quite reach its mount:




                Finally got to putting the engine in. Damn thing fought me everywhere. I started out trying to make it easy, lowering the engine in from above and sliding the transmission in from underneath, mating them on the ground, and then lifting the whole thing up into position.




                My mounts - being different aftermarket brands on each side - sit a bit wide in their relaxed position, so just getting the engine sitting on the two side mounts was a pain.




                I then went to install the rear mount, only to notice that I had pinched some wires in between the engine block and transmission. That VTEC sub-harness is cursed. As long as it took just to get the engine mounted as is, I wasn't about to lower it all back down, so I did what I could to wedge them apart in the bay and pull the wires out. They look rough, but it doesn't look like it was actually punctured to the core.




                Wires rescued, I got back to installing the rear mount... only for it to not want to fit inside the ESP T-bracket. Got out the dremel and ground down the bolt sleeve a bit on both sides. I'm sure it'll now quickly rust and seize, but I was too pissed at this point to care.




                Got it mounted on all four, took the photo, threw some towels over it because this storage unit dusts like hell, and left. I was too sick of this engine bay and my tight work space to do any more for now.

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                  Ha.. wow. I thought my 6 hour battle getting my engine in the other day was hard. Why didn't I think about mounting the engine and trans on the floor like you did! I spent hours trying to get it lined up at the perfect angle so it would simply drop it, and I was doing it alone. But of course that doesn't happen and I got the trans stuck on top of the subframe (in the back where the lift hook is), but my side mounts were in and it had to go down more! Uggg...... then i went to lift it out and it was stuck. I was lifting the whole car... lol. Your idea sounds soo easy and less paint scratching. + you don't have to tilt the engine/trans at some dramatic angle to drop it in. I'm guessing you basically lifted it enough to get the passenger mount in, then the drivers?

                  Those round connectors. I have them too and I think I can get rid of them. Someone told me they were their own sub-harness (can be disconnected up by the clutch res.) and that they were for AC. I've never dug into it to see what these are..... (ie: look up wire colors etc.).

                  & that PS connector........ eee. Swivel ? at 600PSI ? I'm sure it's good, but that's a lot of PSI happening in there.

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                    Lifting the engine up from below is definitely the best way to do it, especially with a slim traction bar (or just removing the factory front subframe). I don't think the engine ever actually touched the sides at all. The bolts that pass through the side mounts were just a pain to line up to thread in, and my hoist's load leveler sucks. No drastic angles to pull off, you would just want to wait on putting the trans mount on until it's nearly in position, and leave the driver's mount in its pocket to wait for the engine to come up to it. I even left the radiator and fans installed during the process, they weren't a problem.

                    As for the p/s line fitting, they surprised me with that swivel (it doesn't swivel once tightened, by the way). But it's a hydraulics shop, I'm sure they know what they're doing. It shouldn't be much different from how the line screws into the steering rack from the factory.

                    Also, I forgot to mention that the two rear holes on that back mount needed to be elongated slightly. From what I've read on Anchor mounts, it sounds like a common problem.
                    Last edited by CyborgGT; 05-25-2021, 02:43 PM.

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                      Looks so good finally resting in the wagon engine bay! You definitely had a bit of a battle getting it in place. I hate how indifferent the fitment can be on the aftermarket parts are for these cars.

                      I like the oil pressure sensor solution, I may have to reference that when I need to add that bit of functionality.

                      Those two round parts on the bracket are the relays for the Compressor Clutch and the Condenser Fan.

                      I can't wait until you button this part of the project up.
                      http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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                        It's an adapter from K-Tuned, if you're interested. I'm sure there are others out there. I still want to add an oil temp gauge as well. Most of what I have is really just there to help the tuner, and for the occasional diagnostic use if the engine starts acting up. Oil temp would be something I'd like to see every time I drive the car, though.
                        Last edited by CyborgGT; 05-27-2021, 12:04 PM.

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                          Some randomness from the last couple days' work...


                          One future possibility for this engine is a Skunk2 K-series Ultra Street intake manifold. I've had an RSX-S manifold laying around, so I sat it in the bay just to see what kind of clearance I'm working with. Thanks to the ESP T-bracket, it fit pretty well. I'm not sure if the K2H adapters add any angle to how the manifold sits, but the Skunk2 IM is more straight than the Honda IMs, so clearance shouldn't be a problem.




                          Got the Euro R manifold bolted in place. I was relieved to see that even with the IACV relocated to the back, I'm still nowhere near the firewall. Those coolant hoses, on the other hand, are not going to be pretty, with these goofy fitting angles...




                          Noticed this unused 2-pin socket under the engine bay fuse box; some cool accessory that wasn't offered in America?




                          Got a sedan rear lip I'm going to plastic weld onto the wagon, for its exhaust gap location.




                          Drilling out the hole blank for the fuel pressure sensor was slightly nerve-racking. I was worried about accidentally damaging the threads, on top of not knowing how big the hole needs to be - or if it even matters.




                          Went to install the old Accord belts just to see if I needed different sizes. Good news is I can keep using Accord belts in this car. Bad news is the ATI damper is so big that a belt will not fit between it and the frame rail.




                          Luckily the power steering pulley is removable, but it still means having to turn the engine to get to all three bolts holding it on so I can then change the belts when needed. They're also torx bolts, which I hate because the socket ("key"? whatever it's called) is not as tight a fit as it could be so I'm worried I might one day strip the bolt heads.




                          The power steering system is not done giving me trouble. The Accord reservoir hose is too small. Granted, this fitting on the pump was taken off the 'mystery pump' I got rid of because the pump didn't come with one, so hopefully I can source a Prelude fitting and it'll be smaller.

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                            That is a super tight squeeze for the ATI damper. Is that 2 pin inside the ABS fuse area? I don’t recognize that box or those connectors?

                            Is there an advantage going with the k manifold? Notice the brake booster nipple is also pointing 180* from the direction it should be.
                            ~Nick~
                            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                              Advantage with the K manifold? That's what I'll be finding out. It doesn't look like all-motor power on the H22 has been too heavily explored on this forum, so I'd like to have a go at trying some things for myself. Given that an engine is a glorified air pump, and something like the S2 Ultra should allow for air to more easily enter the engine via increased throttle body size and internal design, I assume it'll offer gains. After all, the Euro R is a known improvement over the base-model H22 manifolds. As for the brake booster nipple; those fittings can usually be rotated, or if not a line could just incorporate a U-bend. Swapping to a K manifold is a very long ways off though; I should be making plenty of power with what I've got and want to start bringing the rest of the car up to par asap.

                              I'll have to do some exploring into that unused fuse box port...

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                                My car uses that 2 pin connector in the fuse box. & not sure what it's for. In the haynes manual it shows the 2 pin connector but doesn't show where it goes. I have no sunroof or fog lights.

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