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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    have you ever seen the jdm wagons with the rear ceiling speakers?
    The rear speakers are in the ceiling in all the wagons. Kinda sucks, because they're only 4" back there. There's also a single 6x9" in the driver side wall of the rear 'trunk,' but from what I was reading here on the forum, people were saying you can't really hear it because it's so far back. I guess I'll find out how well it all sounds soon enough.


    I just got the car back to the storage unit this morning, though. Going to talk to a different shop to handle the fab and tuning. That first guy was having too much trouble keeping employees, so he was pretty much handling all of his customers himself.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Sucks to hear about the hang up at the fabricator. Your A/V setup looks to be shaping up nicely though.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    have you ever seen the jdm wagons with the rear ceiling speakers?

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    The noise was just the power steering pump; the engine sounded fairly normal once I removed that belt.

    Car's been sitting at the fab/tuner's shop since May 7th, though. He's missed four appointments, and at this rate it's looking like the car won't be ready for a second vacation I have scheduled for it toward the end of July. Still, I've been collecting more parts to make it ready for a long road trip just in case. A budget stereo system, and the parts I need to get the A/C working.


    *ED. - the deck came in today, so group photo:



    - Garmin GPS. Debated for the longest time getting a deck with Garmin built in, but a) the mounting position in the CB is both awful for getting a good look at something like a map and of course there's our stupid cup holders, and b) a stand-alone unit can easily be moved between cars, which I know I'll want to do. Certainly doesn't hurt that the screen is bigger this way, too.
    - Kenwood deck and install kit from Crutchfield. Somehow my first ever double-DIN, and I had to have something with a volume knob. The Kenwood single in my RSX is actually the same one I bought for my CB sedan about 12 years ago, and it's still kicking.
    - Kicker speakers (6.5" and 4") for the main four, and an Alpine 6x9" for the rear cargo area.
    - Hella Sharptone horns. My horns aren't working, and I'm sure I'll need to fix that to pass emissions. Wanted something louder.
    - A/C condenser and drier, praying those are all I need to get that system working.
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 06-30-2022, 10:24 PM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
    Is it normal for forged internals and/or an engine that's not yet broken in to sound a bit chattery even at operating temp? Sounds more top-end, but I'm not sure. That's the only thing I'm worried about. ...........
    My top end has always been chattery. Built bottom end but not built top end.

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  • Straight Success
    replied
    One of my favorite ongoing projects, and I've been too out of it to come in here and indulge. My bad. Give me a minute, and I'll get caught back up.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    The tuner finally got back to me today. Sucks I couldn't get it done during my vacation from work this week as we originally planned, but I'll be dropping the car off next Saturday to start the fab work. With me working overnight I'll do my best to be there for the dyno tuning to record pulls, but it's two hours round trip out of my day just getting there and back, and the work is done on his packed schedule, so we'll see. Knowing me, I might actually go a few days on only a couple hours of sleep just to see it. At least the delay gives me time to properly fix that oil leak first.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Yeah, it’s very fulfilling to see this up and running finally. The dyno pulls should be a good time.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Nice man congrats! I bet it felt great to finally hear the motor run. Looking forward to the dyno pull videos.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Is it normal for forged internals and/or an engine that's not yet broken in to sound a bit chattery even at operating temp? Sounds more top-end, but I'm not sure. That's the only thing I'm worried about.

    The oil leak turned out to be exactly what I thought: the setup I have to tee in the pressure sensor. I don't have time to fix it properly right now, and I was planning an oil change after the dyno anyway, so until then I just spread some silicone over the leak. It only starts leaking when the engine's warmed up and the oil's pressurized. I also removed the valve cover today to look around, and all seemed well in the head.

    I'll run the engine again tomorrow to confirm my oil leak fix works, and try to get a better recording of that chatter.

    *ED. - Nevermind, it was just the dry power steering pump. I just took the belt off for now, I'll figure out how to get fluid in there after the dyno (emailed the guy Monday, still haven't heard back from him!). It's dumb that the pump is mounted higher than the reservoir. Engine sounds great, though.
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 04-22-2022, 09:21 PM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Yep... Sounds right

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Well, this happened. No drama, it just started right up after first priming the oil by cranking the engine a bit with the injectors unplugged, then cycling the key a few times to get fuel pressure up. Only issue is an oil leak near the filter; I'll look into that tomorrow while the engine is cold. I picked up one of those big 'spill proof' funnels that's supposed to make burping the coolant easy, so I should be good there now. But too much breathing of unfiltered exhaust gave me a headache to want to stay out there any longer...



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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Seeing the filthy top of my gas tank, I realized that I never thought to get a replacement gasket. I decided to order an entire cheap-o pump assembly off eBay, just for a more pleasant swapping of the pumps, and hooked up the Walbro.




    I also got some neoprene (wet suit material) with adhesive backing to make an elements-proof seal for the underside of my new access panel.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Thanks for the tips! That reminds me, my friend that manages the storage center I'm working out of actually has one of those vacuum tools that I used on my last brake job. I'll see if the coolant is enough of a pain to make me want to push the car across the lot to his shop with the air compressor. I definitely want to keep the IACV for the practicality, though. I'm not building a race car, I want this thing comfortable and hassle-free.

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  • Rilas
    replied
    Cyborg, I would do as you have done and lube the cams/rocker arms. Oil goes to the drain holes in the head and goes straight down into the oil pan. Before first start up unhook the injectors and crank it over for a bit to pump oil through the entire engine. Oil picks up directly from the pickup in the pan.

    Coolant just add it through the rad cap. Keep the bleeder open when initially filling it will get a lot of the air out. You can't get it all without a vacuum to draw it all in with a special tool for the job. The engine will work the little air bubbles out of the system and into the overflow tank and be gone after that. Just keep the heater open as well to try and get as much as you can in the heater core as well. Also you can drop all the coolant lines associated with the throttle body and the IACV. You can even remove the bottom plate from the IACV as well and not have the coolant nipples sticking out.

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