CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

[CyborgGT]

It is a pain, especially with a H22! Looks good though, cost a lot for all that fluid and parts but sooo worth it as it's a wagon!! Sweet!

Yeah, the trans install is really fighting me. Even with the front subframe out and the engine tilted down as far as the crank pulley will allow.

[Straight Success]

Nice!

[SSMAccord]

This is a score!!! You definitely made the right choice to move on those. Even if you don't use them, they will likely appreciate in value and you can make your investment back.

[CyborgGT]

There are only a couple items left on my 'rare parts wishlist,' and if there's one thing I've learned in my time it's to not sleep on this stuff when it comes up for sale, because it might be years before it shows itself to me again. Fog lights weren't even a for-sure thing for me, because I kept going back and forth on whether or not I like the look - Is it too much clutter up front? Does it make the front end look too visually 'stacked,' when I enjoy a low, wide appearance that these might detract from? I could never decide. But if I did ever get fogs, there's no way I'd ever settle for the flat faces of the USDM lenses. I saw these come up on IG and just went for it. I've no idea if the brackets they came with are for the sedan or wagon (although I'm sure the sedans were far more common), so these lights might end up determining whether or not I change my front bumper .

*EDIT - did some searching, and it looks like I've got coupe/sedan brackets. Which is a relief, because I wanted the smaller bumper in the first place!


Now: anyone got sedan slim side moldings or Sigma side skirts they're trying to unload?

[CyborgGT]

It was moving right along, and it was all very exciting for a bit there today. I spent a while working on getting the transmission in, but little things conspired against me. The hardware with the rear mount - there was so much dirt and grime inside the bolt holes in the subframe that the ESP mount uses that the EX mount doesn't, that it was fighting the bolts getting in. One started flattening its threads, but luckily I had a spare to work in and out to clear the gunk. And then I had forgotten that one of the bolts ESP supplied with the low-profile rear bracket didn't fit through the inner sleeve of their own mount, so I had to dig around for a replacement for that as well. And then as I was pulling the transmission up into place, the tight confines of the bay were in the way. First I took the slave cylinder back off, which made things easier, but then as the trans got higher, it was hitting both the front and rear subframes because of how far away from the engine it needed to be to clear the input shaft. It's making me appreciate the auto right now; that transmission goes up and down so easily with how the flex plate mounts flat against the converter. The front subframe needs to come down, though, so I'll be fitting the ESP traction bar sooner than expected. But for the second day in a row, despite three layers of socks this time, I was hurting too much from the cold and called it quits. Wish I had a garage at home, or I'd have somewhere warm to take breaks.


Anyway... yesterday, the rest of the new parts were installed on the trans and the Competition flywheel went on. ARP's B-series flywheel bolts are compatible with the F/H motors, in case anyone was wondering:




Today, the Duralast clutch was installed. That 19 lb-ft spec doesn't feel quite tight enough for a part like this, but okay.




If you don't remember my post from when I had some parts powder coated, this car's color scheme is all planned out and the entire engine bay plus a lot of the suspension hard parts will eventually be painted/coated this Toyota Quicksand-inspired tan. It's kinda funny how once it's all said and done, each of my engine mounts will be a different color. This one's tan because the subframe it bolts to will be tan. The transmission mount is silver to match the transmission, and at some point the driver side mount will be redone in matte black to blend into the timing cover. The ESP torque strut is left polished because I think it would look odd if it was colored, but who knows, maybe I'll decide to have it done in matte black as well in hopes that it'll 'disappear' from view when you're looking down into the engine bay. We'll see how the polished bar looks agains the clean H22...




I LOVE the ESP low-profile bracket. It's just so easy to get in and out!





'til next weekend...

[PakaloloHonda]

Schawweet! Moving right along ....

[Rilas]

It's really just for appearance as it sticks the reservoir right on top of the master instead of out on it's own.

[CyborgGT]

Great info, thanks. Wish I had known about the RyWire hose before; avoiding that joint (and potential leak) between the two separate lines would have been nice. Something to remember for when I eventually get the engine bay painted, though. I'll see if I can figure out cruise and neutral safety just using the FSM, it shouldn't be too hard, but I'll let you know if I'm struggling, thanks.

Was there any change in performance with the S2000 master, or was it just appearance?

[Rilas]

Cyborg, all of the modifications to the transmission will be noticeable. When I rebuilt my M2Y4 and added a WaveTrac LSD, I also added the SpeedFactory detent springs and the mtec shifter springs. Only I have the shifter cables fully converted to derlin and the aluminum mounting plates from Shayspec which are no longer available. But the springs alone made a huge difference in shifter feel.

Also another option for the clutch line is a Rywire option from the master to the slave directly. Have a black plastic covering over the stainless braid.

Rywire B/D Clutch Line
http://www.rywire.com/product-p/clutch-line-b-d.htm

Rywire Accord/Prelude Clutch Line
http://www.rywire.com/rywire-accord-...-line-h12m.htm

I used the B/D one on Lola so I could keep it tucked against the firewall. I also have the S2000 master cylinder in place of the stock Accord one.

Also I can dig through my notes for anything you might need related to the auto to manual swap. I've done 2 successfully and am currently working on swapping a buddies wagon. This would include the cruise control and the neutral safety switch, requiring the clutch to be depressed to start the car.

[CyborgGT]

Have you thought about removing the rubber isolators, or upgrading them to something firmer? You'd likely get some gear whine, but I would be curious if it would change how the shift felt.

For now I'm leaving them, but FFC makes billet aluminum replacements that I'll eventually try out.

[SSMAccord]

I got a basic Duralast clutch for the initial install and test, though (yay for holiday overtime at work), so unless I'm forgetting something I should be good to put the new transmission in this weekend. I found this stainless clutch line to replace the rubber one on top of the transmission as well, made by Phase 2 Motortrend. Unlike the Valex line to the master cylinder, this one has a clear rubber sleeve to protect against fraying. I'd never heard of the brand before, but it feels like a quality piece .

*scribbles furiously in CB7 notebook to keep in mind for future modifications

[AccordWarrior]

Next up was the Prelude shifter. Looking through the DIYs, it seems like everyone just forces the bolts into the bushings and tightens it down in that stressed position. I didn't like that, so I elongated the front holes so it all sits more relaxed before bolting down.

Shifter and pedals in!




I installed the ITR shift boot onto the console, and couldn't help mocking it up with the Circuit Hero extender and Skunk2 knob. That knob is so heavy for something so small, it's awkward to hold and I actually dropped it on the ground, so now it's got some little gouges in it. I'm feeling stupid for that...

Have you thought about removing the rubber isolators, or upgrading them to something firmer? You'd likely get some gear whine, but I would be curious if it would change how the shift felt.

[CyborgGT]

It is a pain, especially with a H22! Looks good though, cost a lot for all that fluid and parts but sooo worth it as it's a wagon!! Sweet!

What's different about the H22? I always thought the F & H blocks were basically identical as far as the exterior casting is concerned. But the fluid was only about 5 bucks a quart; I was expecting much more for OEM, so that was nice. I think once the H22 is running, I'll end up going back and forth between Honda and GM Syncromesh for a bit to see if I feel a real difference, but it sounds like people are having less problems with Honda's ever since they changed their formula.


I got a basic Duralast clutch for the initial install and test, though (yay for holiday overtime at work), so unless I'm forgetting something I should be good to put the new transmission in this weekend. I found this stainless clutch line to replace the rubber one on top of the transmission as well, made by Phase 2 Motortrend. Unlike the Valex line to the master cylinder, this one has a clear rubber sleeve to protect against fraying (*ED. - correction: the Valex line does have a protective sleeve, it's just not as thick). I'd never heard of the brand before, but it feels like a quality piece .

[Raf99]

It is a pain, especially with a H22! Looks good though, cost a lot for all that fluid and parts but sooo worth it as it's a wagon!! Sweet!

[CyborgGT]

And the slushbox is out. What a pain in the back... upper and lower.




Can. Not. Wait. Until my sparkly-clean engine and trans are in. The wagon's definitely getting a trip to the car wash once the F22's out. The entire engine bay is this disgusting.





Came home afterwards to the rest of the parts I need from Honda, delivered a day early! Enough fluid for three quick changes, to really flush out whatever was in there before; pads for the clutch and brake pedals; clutch release fork boot; a couple drain plug washers; the output seals for the axles; and the reverse sensor that was missing.