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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I'd have only gotten them if they were the 4th gen optional wheels, just to save rare parts from the crusher. I don't actually care for the design either, haha. I remember seeing photos of the full lineup of 14" alloys somewhere in the forum, but I can't find it now. Anyway, a friend needs help with a trip up to Wyoming, so that yard trip is out. Maybe I'll find something cool up there...

    *ED. - Actually, I just thought to re-word my Google search and found this: https://www.wheelstiresandmore.com/H...ariantID=49434

    Shows up if I search for 1991 through 1993 "Accord 14" alloy". It doesn't appear when I search for '94. Might have to...
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 06-14-2021, 09:06 AM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    I've seen these so many times but can't say. I thought it was the non-V6 1994 honda accords that had these. Pretty ugly if you ask me ...

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Saw this in the inventory at one of the Denver yards. Are these wheels one of the optional 14" alloys, or just off another Honda and more common? I wouldn't want to run them because of the size obviously, but you know, rare parts are worth saving. Car's been in the yard a couple weeks now, so might be worth driving out there to check on them tomorrow...

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I like that edge trim, thanks for that. Everything I've tried has never been flexible enough, so that's why I just used vacuum line. I'll look into the laptop, but that would have to wait. Maybe I could learn tuning one day, though. It'd be nice to be able to adjust things myself if I was out of state at a different elevation or something like that.

    Thanks for the confirmation on the base map, guys.
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 06-10-2021, 09:16 AM.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    I third what is said and again I am not a professional. But I have used phearables products, multiple products and John is good at what he does.

    I would recommend getting a cheap Microsoft laptop, so that you can watch your motor while driving( well you know look at it at red lights). I now always drive with my laptop hooked up and datalogging, just so I can see how the engine is acting. You don’t need anything fancy, a $200 laptop that runs windows will work perfectly.

    Also instead of using vacuum tubing to line your cuts, I recommend this:
    https://www.amazon.com/Edge-Trim-Bla...p+edge&sr=8-17

    I used it on my accord to line the holes I cut on the bumper and the charge piping hole. It has a metal inlay that helps keep it secure and is much more durable then the rubber. Just my .02

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    If there is a Phearable basemap already loaded into the ECU, you should be fine for testing and making sure all of the parts and wiring are working as they should be. (Also like Raf said, I am not a professional )

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya you should be fine. Your tuner has to use a basemap too. If you have concerns you should ask your tuner for a basemap for a H22. I'm sure he has something that will work just fine. (Also don't take my opinion, I'm no professional :P )

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I should just need it to idle for a few, but being able to drive it around a parking lot would be nice, to make sure it doesn't do anything weird under light load.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Looks good. Well are you looking to see if it will run or just turn over? Usually basemaps are pretty safe assuming you told them what your setup was (injectors etc.). Just them pretty much using OEM basemap that a normal H22 would have.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Still a long way to go before start-up, because I'm broke lol (lots of little things still need ordering), but the car's back on the ground...




    Speaking of start-up, Hondata's instructions say I need to first plug the ECU into a laptop and set up the software before plugging the ECU into the car. I have a Mac, so I can't do that, but I'm hoping that since my ECU is already programmed with a tailored Phearable basemap, I'll be safe. One of you guys have experience to know for certain? That's an expensive part to fry. The other option is not touching it until I have the car towed to the dyno, but then I can't make sure I've got my wiring right and the thing actually runs as it should beforehand...

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Yaaa, like that idea.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Agreed. I definitely don't want direct airflow into the tube, going back to that worry about water getting in. In the end, I got that cone wedged right up under the cutout. I'm going for a bit of a motorsports theme with the exterior of this car (seriously considering getting it wrapped in one of Honda's old JTCC/BTCC liveries one day - very long way off though), so to add some aggression to the look of the car I found this mini NACA duct on eBay. I'll be mounting a couple of those on the side of the bumper to try to pressurize this 'air box'. Gravity should keep water from reaching the intake itself.




    I'm making good progress with the reassembly as well. The car will be back on the ground by tonight. Cleaning the underside of the hood here before remounting...

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Looks good. You should just do what Honda does for that lower plastic piece and face the opening away from the wind. I know you want to "ram" air in there but pretty sure engine will suck just as much no matter which way the opening is facing.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Got the cold-air intake hole cut out. The hole will be edged with vacuum line for protection, of course. The circle was drawn after the first holes were (poorly) measured out and drilled, by the way. Yeah, I didn't think of tracing the intake tube right away, I just got out the tape measure and started marking two points on opposite sides of the existing hole, and of course they didn't come out even. Still, I was able to save it and massage out a neat, circular hole. I don't have any massive hole saws, so I used the same technique as with the fog light cut-outs: drill a bunch of small holes to make cutting the larger shape with a dremel easier.










    The K&N Apollo gives you a good amount of hose to work with. Flexible and extendable, without being too rough and turbulent on the inside. The biggest selling point for me was that it maintains a factory-like enclosed filter.




    I think I'll end up cutting it down to something like this, putting the bell mouth as high as possible to minimize the risk of taking in water. I'm also considering putting some sort of subtle scoop on the side of the bumper, for a ram air effect... which might undo that fight against water but I suppose this isn't my daily driver, right?




    Rough filter location/angle. Just need to have the aluminum tubing to the throttle cut and welded up.

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  • NH-503P-3
    replied
    The US 93 SE models use fuse 40 for the Bose equipment fuse. Fuse 21 on the under hood fuse box is also open to use how you want. I run my fog lights off of it. On the 16 pin plug for the u/h fuse box pin 15 is open. Put a wire to it and you have power from fuse 21.

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