Grumpys93 : 1993 Accord LX

[Grumpys93]

Thanks Y'all! It still needs a lot of cosmetic work but its not to bad on the eyes.

So when I took the car off the ramp the front bumper got snagged a tad and pulled it off. It wasn't secured fully and no damage was done to it. Plus it is a throw away bumper so I'm not to worried about it.

Anyways, I decided to go ahead and install my bumper quick release and remove all the clips that hold the bumper in place. When I first saw a drift car many years ago have these and how easy it was for them to reconnect a charge pipe that blew, I thought to myself I had to have them for the convenience factor and if my front lip ever gets caught again the rubber ring will snap before the lip cracks (hopefully).

Anyways on to the pictures:
Driver side:


Passenger side (Don't mind the pin striping, I haven't gotten around to removing it all yet):


And just an engine shot. One day I will buy a mig welder and fill all those holes and make the bay look all pretty.

[Grumpys93]

Nothing too exciting was done other then I got the side markers wired back up and working properly. As well as I removed the driver side headlight and bracket and replaced it with one that I pulled from the junkyard during their all you can carry a few months back. Reason I replaced it was due to the hit run that happened to my car 10 years ago. It broke off some tabs and the corner light was held in by a screw. I really want to do a retrofit but i already have enough projects with this car and would like to complete one of them before starting a new one.

[NH-503P-3]

I’m starting to really like those clean tucked engine bays. Hey Nick what size tires are you running on your SI 17’s? Also do you get much rubbing?

[Grumpys93]

I am currently running what came on the rims which is 215/45/17. I haven't had any rubbing issues. I do love tucked bays, but i like them more when you don't have all those bolt holes. I keep toying with the idea of buying a welder, but I don't want to dip into the car fund for unnecessary expenses right now.

[Grumpys93]

Got a couple packages today, slowly gathering the remaining pieces to this super long and complex puzzle.

I received my B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator. I ordered the silver one but they decided I needed some purple in my life. I thought about returning it, but a little color never hurt anyone. Shout out to Boost_lee and his famous purple cb.

The second item are Goodrich Stainless Steel brake lines for the front. Big shout out to Mark (NH-503) for hooking me up with a set. I will clean these up and install them in the near future.


I also received my Drill and Tap set for the Marshall static fuel pressure gauge. Nothing exciting but needed:



Then because you guys wanted more whole car pictures, here she sits in the garage:

[NH-503P-3]

That’s a sweet ride. The carbon fiber hood goes well with that color.

[Grumpys93]

That’s a sweet ride. The carbon fiber hood goes well with that color.

I would have to agree with you. I think the black offsets the rosewood pretty well.

Today I got some more wrench time in and installed my Marshall's Static Fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Let me tell you this was nerve racking as all the DIYs that I read said they busted through the threads when drilling the hole for the gauge. As I didn't have a spare nut to try again and the only junkyard here only has one cb7 in the whole lot. Though I'm sure the nut is probably the same size for all Hondas. But I was happy my drill has a level on it so I could at least drill straight. I didn't drill all the way through as I didn't want to weaken the threads too much, maybe halfway.


Gauge installed and looks like I am currently getting 34psi to the fuel rail. I was expecting somewhere around 40 especially because I feel the engine is running rich. But either later this week or next week I will install the Adjustable fuel pressure regulator and maybe bump it up or down depending on what the car likes.

[Grumpys93]

Got some progress pictures from Blake(850Fab) today on the progress of all the work he is doing for me.

We decided to go with purchasing a 3" stainless steel doughnut because it will be such a tight fit between the alternator and the turbo for the downpipe. It also saved money on not having to do a bunch of pie cuts. He cleaned it up a bit and looks real good



He then ported the manifold a bit to get rid of some of the casting and weld splatter from when the manifold was built many years ago. I wish I had a before picture



We decided to create more room for the downpipe by removing the Marmon flange that usually comes with a Borg Warner turbos.



So we went with a 3" V-band and I must say Blake did an excellent job. I was a little worried with welding Cast Iron



Mocking up the cut doughnut with the new v-band turbine housing. Looks like it will clear



Now with it all welded up, beautiful tig welds for sure:



With it bolted and mocked up, it sits close to the alternator but with a turbo blanket, some exhaust wrap, it all should be fine. I'm anxious to see how he routes the Wastegate dump tube.



Then I figured I would show my pumpkin carving skills, my daughter asked for Minnie Mouse and I was please to oblige her. Didn't turn out half bad:



I also decided to return the B&M fuel pressure regulator as the more I read about them, the more I kept finding that since it utilizes the stock relief, if you upgrade your pump to a 255 or higher, the regulator will simply be overrun. I found a way on an rsx forum, to create a bypass so that I can lower the fuel psi and help with preventing the relief to be overrun, but at this point I would rather use the money for something else on the build and if I need to down the road upgrade to a AEM fuel rail and pressure regulator.

[NH-503P-3]

Cute pumpkins. The turbo however, looks freakin killer!

[Grumpys93]

Cute pumpkins. The turbo however, looks freakin killer!

Lol thanks. I can't wait to hear the turbo spool soon.

Got some more items in the mail today.


If anyone has their technique of breaking in a new motor please chime in. My plan was to obviously unplug the dizzy, and pull the fuel pump fuse, turn over the motor about 10-15 seconds, repeat. Then start it, bring the rpm up to a minimum of 1500 to 2500 and hold it there until temps come up.

That seems the standard across the board and then it varies after that.

Go for a cruise and do 50% throttle to 4500 rpms then let engine coast back down to 20mph. Do this 2-3 times.

Then go 60-75% throttle to 5500 rpm then coast down again to 20 mph. Repeat 2-3 times.

Then go 80% throttle to redline and coast down. 2-3 times

Then go get tuned.

Thoughts?

Obviously I will be doing an oil change after the tune session. Put in 5w-30 conventional. Then another oil change at 1500 same oil. Then at 4000 miles change oil and go full synthetic oil and do normal intervals. I also know not to stay at one rpm for long. i.e set cruise control and cruise at 70 mph for a long time.

Again any feedback would be greatly appreicated.

[Raf99]

OOOhh, this type of break in. Ignore my PM man. I didn't go to this extent but I agree with what you had above. I used break in oil. I shut off fuel and spark and let the engine prime itself, get oil through the valleys, etc. Then started it and just went easy on it. I didn't drive it everyday so I prematurely changed the oil after a while ... (... 300-500 miles) to full synthetic and that was it. Once full synthetic I was driving around normally.

Loving the progress! Looks great. I wish I could weld like that! Sorry I haven't been in here for a while. Interesting setup with bottom mount & exhaust on the right. Is the piping planned out? what intercooler, 3" exhaust ?

[CyborgGT]

I would love some solid information on breaking in a fresh build myself. Trying to search the internet brings up all sorts of polar-opposite theories, from babying it to wringing the snot out of it. Especially when people put brand new engines straight on the dyno for tuning, I'm just confused.

[Grumpys93]

OOOhh, this type of break in. Ignore my PM man. I didn't go to this extent but I agree with what you had above. I used break in oil. I shut off fuel and spark and let the engine prime itself, get oil through the valleys, etc. Then started it and just went easy on it. I didn't drive it everyday so I prematurely changed the oil after a while ... (... 300-500 miles) to full synthetic and that was it. Once full synthetic I was driving around normally.

Loving the progress! Looks great. I wish I could weld like that! Sorry I haven't been in here for a while. Interesting setup with bottom mount & exhaust on the right. Is the piping planned out? what intercooler, 3" exhaust ?

Ya I have to have the exhaust go to the right because of how this manifold is set up the compressor is too big and hits the wastegate. My plans are to eventually get a custom bottom mount manifold that puts the compressor under the alternator, but for now this will work.

As for the piping I have the cold side planned out, but I won't be able to do the hot side until I have the motor in the car. I am more then likely going to have to run the hot side in front of the compressor inbetween the radiator and the turbo. I may have to tuck the radiator but I am trying to avoid that to save money.

As for the intercooler I will be running a greddy FMIC It's massive, but I got it for $75.00 so I couldn't turn down the offer. I will have to have Blake weld up the top mounting bracket, but other then that its golden





I am running 3" right now, which I plan to keep, I was going to also run an exhaust cut out, but after reviewing how often they fail because of carbon build up I decided to not go that route. Plus it saves money. Raf what oil pressure gauge are you running?

[Raf99]

Ya I have to have the exhaust go to the right because of how this manifold is set up the compressor is too big and hits the wastegate. I plans are to eventually get a custom bottom mount manifold that puts the compressor under the alternator, but for now this will work.

As for the piping I have the cold side planned out, but I won't be able to do the hot side until I have the motor in the car. I am more then likely going to have to run the hot side in front of the compressor inbetween the radiator and the turbo. I may have to tuck the radiator but I am trying to avoid that to save money.

As for the intercooler I will be running a greddy FMIC It's massive, but I got it for $75.00 so I couldn't turn down the offer. I will have to have Blake weld up the top mounting bracket, but other then that its golden

I am running 3" right now, which I plan to keep, I was going to also run an exhaust cut out, but after reviewing how often they fail because of carbon build up I decided to not go that route. Plus it saves money. Raf what oil pressure gauge are you running?

So before my turbo I saved up a ton of cb7 turbo pics. Months of saving up, I'm sure you have some? Only a few where the exhaust is on the right. Too bad you couldn't cut the pipe going to the WG, angle it so it's not in the way. The pics I have show folks going over top of the whole unit to have the cool side go down the driver side. But then you have the exhaust pipe near the ALT and not matching up with the oil pan cutout. Or both pipes going down the passenger side and this maze of piping to the intercooler and back. Gets messy and air doesn't flow as well.






For my oil pressure gauge I bought this cheap ebay thing. It's not accurate and doesn't have to be. I just need to know I have some form of oil pressure
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-Black-Car-Truck-Digital-Blue-LED-Oil-Press-Pressure-LED-Gauge-Kit-Dragon/323520149321?epid=2240245181&hash=item4b534db749:g :~k4AAOSwhrFb0~L5:rk:1f:1&frcectupt=true

[Grumpys93]

So before my turbo I saved up a ton of cb7 turbo pics. Months of saving up, I'm sure you have some? Only a few where the exhaust is on the right. Too bad you couldn't cut the pipe going to the WG, angle it so it's not in the way. The pics I have show folks going over top of the whole unit to have the cool side go down the driver side. But then you have the exhaust pipe near the ALT and not matching up with the oil pan cutout. Or both pipes going down the passenger side and this maze of piping to the intercooler and back. Gets messy and air doesn't flow as well.

This is all true, I brought up cutting the WG and flipping the turbo to blake, when he flipped the turbo it ended up sticking out too far. Here is a comparison picture of how far it sticks out of we were to flip it:







We could possibly make it work, but with how many times I've had that manifold repaired, it would likely crack again and to reposition the WG would just have added more money to a mani I was eventually going to get rid of.

So after sitting on it for a day I decided to pull the trigger and have Blake make a custom manifold for me. With that said he is looking to see if anyone else is interested since he has to create a jig for mine. So PM me if you are interested with details. He can change the turbo flange to which ever you prefer.







I now have to go get a new to me oil pan from the junkyard since my old drain line hole wont line up with the new manifold. There is 1 accord in the junkyard hopefully they didn't pull the motor. I'll find out on Friday when I go.