KeeleDesign : 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

[KeeleDesign]

this is Keeles permanent ride.

I agree that the more fluid i can hold the better, as well as thats about $240 worth of fluid and assembly grease.

I will be getting another DD soon.. a buddy of mine is giving me a 91 hatchback civic, for painting his truck that ui had told him i would already do just to help him out. so that'll be nice.

I also have another accord still and about to get another one to make a whole 1 out of the 2.

I sold my car to my sister, who wrecked it within a week.

the bottom ends of these motors have proven that they can handle between 400-500 whp without failure, due to great tuning, so i am not worried about it either.

I will be upgrading the valvetrain when i replace the stock cams.

i am still undecided rather to get the unorthodox stock size pulleys for this yet... and i will not get UD pulleys as to the fact, i like my PS and AC.

I need to find a place that can powdercoat a matt black finish, some kinda bad....

[deevergote]

The CB was wrecked? Man, that sucks! This one makes more power anyway!


The 4G63 is an amazing motor. You're lucky to have gotten one that was well cared for, as so many of them are beat to death anymore. In good shape like this one, 400hp on stock internals is nothing. 500 might be pushing it, but I've seen that as well.


Brandon, do you know if the internals are forged from the factory, or if they're cast? I was discussing that with someone in another thread, and I couldn't find the answer. I believe they were cast (since most Japanese turbo pistons were, even the Supra internals)

[CoPilot1]

4G63 > G54B
2.0T > 2.6T

Overall...you own. Only thing I have that you don't is RWD, bigger displacement and...that don't mean shit cuz I'm rockin a 2 valve head and SOHC
You have a MUCH larger aftermarket support than SQs do. We do what we can with what has been given to us tho. Again, you have a sweet ass ride and I look forward to seeing the progression of your project.

[deevergote]

A 2.6L 4 cylinder is just so badass, though!

In Australia, the Starion got the 4G63.

[CoPilot1]

Yea, everyone but the US got a 2.0T, most WERE the 4G63, but some were Mitsubishi's Sirius engine(also a 2.0 turbo) most of the Sirius engines were in Australia or Japan tho. The G54B is and always has been a torque monster, but it just doesn't like to rev like the 4G. They both have their ups and downs, I know if the G54B was a DOHC engine, it would be an absolute beast...

Sorry to thread jack Keeles!!

[KeeleDesign]

I honestly must say i am unsure.

I don't really think i need any more displacement as to the fact that every motor i have seen built in these things seem to hold up much better with less displacement. and still have an imaculate amount of torque.

Since in reality i have a verry small turbo on this car, my torque is verry potent when it kicks in.and unlike most the larger turbos, i don't have to have it redlined at launch to get this same feeling, and less likely to break more parts while still putting 400 whp to all 4 tires through the automatic.
the cams more than anything will allow me to hopefully keep my power through 7500 rpm's as compared to it dropping off at 7000 as of right now.
and with the intake and ported evo 3 it may make it to 8,000, and if so i may have to upgrade my tcu computer.

As for thread jacking, naw man thats kewl i like reading actual conversations instead of comments. If i don't think it deals with this thread i'll ask nicely for you to delete it.

ohh yes Deev i know i am verry lucky to get this car in the shape it is for the price i did.. I just don't think many people really realize how imaculately clean and well tuned this car has been. But i do.

[deevergote]

I knew that. Typo! Fixed now.

Are you going for all out power, or an all around good driving car? That's what I'm shooting for with my CB7. I don't see the point of a car that isn't practical to drive!


I do agree that the 4G63 is better than the G54B... it's just that the G54B has such a large displacement that it's pretty damn impressive! I don't know of any other 2.6L I4s! (I'm sure there are... but that's all I know!)

How many miles are on that car now? I've heard that if it breaks 100k, you don't have to worry about crankwalk... if it's going to happen, it'll be before 100k.
Still, that's the model you have to watch out for.

[LoDollar92LX]

toyota made a 2.7L I4, and there was a mercruser engine that was a 3. somethingL I4 and used a one ford 460 cyl head.

[deevergote]

You're pretty close to the 100k mark... it probably won't become an issue. It was a pretty common problem with those 2nd gens, though.

[KeeleDesign]

Tonight i swapped all my fluids.

Honestly i didn't ecpect to really feel any difference, as this is more previnitive high hp maintance.

But the feel of the car feels even more firmer and percise. noise has gone down from the tranfer case and rear end.

and engagement and shifting feels more firm than before with less noise. honestly i didn't expect to feel anything.

the new oil also has allowed the turbo to spool faster and made the engine a bit quieter as well.

although the tranny fluid is more denser and causing the stall to only go to 2200 rpm's as compared to the previous 2800. I like it better now though.

[deevergote]

Sweet. I can't wait until I get Redline fluid in my GTP. I changed the fluid this summer with crap from Shell... just to get fresh fluid in there around 70k. Didn't feel a difference at all, but I have a feeling it might be different with the Redline. Need to change my supercharger oil as well!

Wat sort of gas mileage does that thing get with 1000cc injectors?

[KeeleDesign]

Sweet. I can't wait until I get Redline fluid in my GTP. I changed the fluid this summer with crap from Shell... just to get fresh fluid in there around 70k. Didn't feel a difference at all, but I have a feeling it might be different with the Redline. Need to change my supercharger oil as well!

Wat sort of gas mileage does that thing get with 1000cc injectors?

ok... this is a really good question. I don't think people understand the whole comprehension of bigger injectors sometimes.
When tuning i will change the global and dead time on the injectors, whitch curve the amount of fuel that is given during idle and WOT and the computer calculates the rest in porpurtion and then i go back and fine tune the fuel enrichments or decrease from their.. my global needs to be -55 and deadtime at 330.


so basically my miliage isn't any different than if i had 550 injectors.
.....
okay i really suck at explaining .. but.. in lamans term, at WOT as of right now i am only at between 65-70% fuel injector delivery, whitch for my application is good, considering it keeps the injectors in a great percentage range not forcing more than that is needed.
now if i didn't change my global and deadtime my car wouldn't even run i'd just pore fuel out the tail pipe lol.
2G's = LTFT Lo and Mid

The DSMlink owners manual contains a list of appropriate injector Global and Deadtime settings. Use these settings and input them in the fuel table. Once you input the correct Global value for your injector, do not touch it ever again. (Unless switching to E85) All other compensations to the injector flow will be made through the airflow and fuel sliders.





"To keep things EXTREMELY simple, I've broken down the long term fuel trims to these sliders.


2G's
LTFT Lo = 50Hz Airflow Slider
LTFT Mid = 150-400Hz Airflow Slider

Adjusting fuel trims with the above information makes Rev MAFT calibration very easy. Obviously we still need MAFraw captured along with STFT and all the LTFT's. Also make sure you are at your thermostat's operating temperature.

Step 1) Rev to 50Hz
Step 2) LTFT lo + STFT = Your 50Hz adjustment

Example : If STFT is +7% and LTFT Lo is +3%, then adjust your 50Hz airflow slider 10% higher than it currently is now.

Step 3) Rev to 150Hz
Step 4) LTFT mid + STFT = Your 150Hz adjustment

Example : If STFT is -11% and LTFT Mid is +4%, then adjust your 150Hz airflow slider 7% lower than it currently is now. And continue to repeat for LTFT Hi for 1G's.

Step 5) Cruise on the road until you can get a stable 250Hz
Step 6) Repeat equation until lower airflow sliders are calibrated

I also want to mention what the DSMlink manual suggests when LTFT Lo and LTFT mid are far apart from each other. If LTFT Lo is positive and LTFT mid is negative, then increase dead time. Vice Versa. This is another tool you can use when fine tuning LTFT's.

NOTE : You must be patient when calibrating the lower airflow sliders. The ECU will take it's time readjusting the LTFT's. The best thing to do is to calibrate the GMAF using the steps above and then just recheck them after a day of driving. Adjust again if neccesary."

oh yeah right now i am only getting 19 mpg, but with more tuning now that my fluids are changed with time i should be able to get up to 30 mpg with no problems. still pushing 29 psi at WOT

[deevergote]

Cool. That explains a lot. As long as it's tuned to only deliver more fuel when needed, it makes sense. The injectors are capable of dumping a buttload of fuel, but they don't at partial throttle / low boost, correct?

I'll be impressed if you can get 30mpg. That's good for my H22A powered cb7... FWD, manual, naturally aspirated, and lighter than your DSM. Not saying it can't be done... but if you can pull it off, it'll be very interesting!

[KeeleDesign]

the only reason i think it's possible to get 30 mpg is because their are about 25 other people on the dsmlink forum that have my setup getting that mpg.. If i can get 24pmg i will be well satisfied.

I hope the tuning didn't confuse you concerning the injectors..

do you have a forum for your gtp?

[deevergote]

Were the cars that got 30mpg AWD or FWD? FWD I could definitely see, as MRX managed to get about 32mpg with his turbo F22 (driving mainly out of boost). I know most AWD cars get lousy gas mileage in stock form, let alone when they're making double the horsepower! I suppose tuning can help a good deal in that area, though. Still, the STi, which weighs only a little more than the AWD DSMs, makes 300hp, and is AWD turbo, only gets about 19-21mpg!

If you can even pull off 24mpg, I'd consider looking for a DSM myself! (actually, a Galant VR4 has always been one of my dream cars)



As for the GTP, it's FWD... so no rear end to grease! Such a horrible idea... all that power through a FWD drivetrain And then they give me traction control that just cuts the power when I put down too much!

I plan on getting the standard Redline synthetic fluid, and adding a better transmission cooler. The transmission is supposed to be able to take a LOT of power, as long as it isn't allowed to overheat (I suppose that goes for most automatics, especially with high-torque motors.)