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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Went back to the junkyard for more manual swap parts. Picked up the clutch and brake pedals (stupid brake pedal spring...), a clutch fluid reservoir, shift boot retaining ring, and managed to find two good cigarette lighter bezels. ESP conversion mount is on order. I believe that leaves me with starter and axles (to be bought new), and the transmission itself with all of its directly associated parts, but I'm still going to hold out a bit longer for an H-series trans to appear.

    And this classy little scamp was in the parking lot




    I did see the inside of a CR-Z for the first time in the yard. The seats in those things look like a great alternative to an RSX/EP3/S2000 seat swap...

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    It's not that big a deal, I can pull overtime at work and possibly cut that timeframe in half. But delay is delay, and I've had too much of that already, haha. As far as tuning, I'd just rather have a professional there (or a couple of them, in PFI's case) who can look and listen to the engine in person. I've been watching PFI's channel for as long as it's been a thing, and have seen them catch enough sounds and leaks, etc before they evolved into something worse. Suppose I end up with an issue that I couldn't spot myself? Adding a pre-tuning session over the internet/phone seems like it'd be needlessly complicating things. Keep it simple: a known good basemap to get it started and make sure it runs smooth enough to drive to the shop without a tow, then hand it over to a pro and be done with it.

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  • Rilas
    replied
    Steve at e-tunez did a good job. I'm even going to have him retune the H22 again after I throw the delta 262 cams in it.

    What you could do is get it street tuned by e-tunez or someone else for a good bit cheaper and get the car running well. Then take it to PFI or whoever and only pay for an hour or two of dyno time and have them clean up the tune with the dyno to help. Should end up running cheaper than $650 not a lot, but you've over run the budget in other places, doesn't hurt to save a bit in other places if possible for the same results.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Just a slight plug, that head work price isn’t that bad. For what they did that is very reasonable! Have you looked into e tuning? I went with Steve at Etunez and he specializes in k and H series and it won’t break the bank. I think 275-350 for a full street tune. I went with them and I am very happy. Plus I love the fact that I could tune on my own time and be a part of the process instead of simply watching it on a dyno. Will (Rilas) also got tuned by them and I think he will back me up when I say that Steve is awesome to work with and their customer Service is fantastic.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I do appreciate the offer (it's really an absurd coincidence that you had that), but to be honest, at this point my mindset is quickly losing interest in what would only be a 'placeholder' mod.


    Good news/not exactly "bad" news. The good: I picked up the H22 head today. In the couple of times I talked to this guy, it's very obvious that he's very passionate about his job; I definitely went to the right guy, so my hopes are high that this will be a reliable head. One thing that deviated from plan is that he didn't use the Supertech guides I had supplied, and instead swapped them out with GSC B-series guides, as you'll see in the invoice below. While he's a Supertech fan, he's not comfortable with their guides because of how they're not quite big enough to properly grip the valve seals. You could literally put the seals on and pull them off again by hand. GSC has been one of his go-to brands for a while. But since it took so long to get my head done (setbacks with other customers' heads), he didn't charge me for them. There weren't any other real hiccups; he said mine was the nicest H-series heads he's had come through - those HMO motors, man! He included a full reassembly and valve lash adjustment, so all I have to do is pull the cams and bolt the head onto the block, and it's ready to go. An expensive job in the end, but I did opt to replace everything. Photos of the head were all supplied by Drew:

    Memory refresher on the full head setup, once running:

    - Ishino/Stone (OEM) top-end gasket set
    - Fel-pro MLS head gasket
    - ARP head studs
    - New OEM '97-'01 spring-style lost motion assemblies
    - New OEM valve spring seats
    - Supertech 79lb valve springs
    - Supertech titanium spring retainers
    - Supertech machine hardened valve locks
    - Supertech black nitrided dish valves
    - GSC Power-Division manganese bronze B-series valve guides
    - Supertech valve seals
    - Skunk2 Pro 2 cams
    - Skunk2 Pro Black Series cam gears
    - OEM manual timing tensioner conversion kit
    - Skunk2 cam seal
    - "Skunk2 Inside" VTEC solenoid cover










    Install specs below... and because I did a lot of searching beforehand on pricing to get an idea of what to budget for, I left the prices in for anyone it might help. It might be worth noting that my intake manifold gasket surface was a bit messed up and he had to spend time sanding it down smooth. I did also have the head completely disassembled and the parts very neatly organized and labeled in Zip-Loc bags in a tote before taking it in:




    The not-as-good: After PFI got my block back from their machinist, they looked it over and saw that while it had been re-sleeved, it wasn't bored to my pistons. Jamie told me it'd be done tonight, but with my work schedule vs the hours those guys are actually at the shop, I probably won't have time to pick it up until next Monday. Once I get it back, I'll be doing the bearing sizing and assembly myself - fingers crossed on that one. I need to pick up a caliper and dial bore gauge.


    The even less good: I overshot my budget a bit (probably from all my nickel-and-diming on the aesthetic restoration), and it'll be a couple more months before I can afford the tune (I was quoted about $650 at the high end) and whatever the labor on getting the full exhaust system welded up will cost - I definitely don't want muffler shop welds on this system, so I'll be trying for Hayden (Metigulous) or Shawn at PFI, if they can. Otherwise, all I've got left, which will be purchased as soon as the block is paid for, is a Phearable base-mapped Hondata S300 system (I don't want to be another of PFI's basket cases if they end up using my car for YT content, so I'm making sure it runs smooth first) and the parts I'm still missing for the manual conversion.
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 06-15-2020, 07:54 PM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    This may or may not be helpful. I have a spare working BB6 speedometer that I can contribute. The mileage is 151,868.

    Things that are not so helpful:
    The plastic trip mechanism arm is broken at the end, but it just snaps outs and you can snap the arm from the unit you already have in its place, also the amber color has been removed so if you plan to remain with the stock BB6 illumination color it definitely wont work.

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  • Rilas
    replied
    I'm not exactly sure what or how your trying to turn it as I don't have one to look at in front of me. But even if it takes 10 minutes or something to get the setup right it might save hours in the long run.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I didn't think about putting that much effort into a drill technique - what, running a Phillips head parallel to a gear and holding it up to the teeth? Worth trying if I end up with another cluster.

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  • Rilas
    replied
    Why not buy a cheap screw driver from Harbor Freight, cut the handle off. Insert it into the chuck on your drill and set it low speed and just let it spin the numbers up? Save your wrist and probably a ton of time. Just trying to help a fellow out.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Only the number wheel itself might swap over, because the trip meter on the BB6 cluster is above the odometer rather than next to it, so all of the plastics behind the gauge face are designed around that structure. If I could disassemble the BB6 gauge enough to remove that wheel, I could adjust its own numbers anyway, and I can't disassemble it that far because at least in my case the needles are not wanting to come off - if I pull any harder than I've already tried, I know something's going to break. I assume that's a legal characteristic. Removing the needles, and then the gauge face, is the only way to get to most of the screws to disassemble the thing. Since mine's already broken, I'll try hunting for one more BB6 cluster, hope it's super high in mileage, and then just binge-watch the entire Star Wars series while I absentmindedly spin that gear by hand.

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  • Fleetw00d
    replied
    Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
    The trip wasn't a complete waste, though, as they also got a BB6 in. Nabbed the gauge cluster w/pigtails, as well as the bezel, hoping I can make a clean install with some cutting and molding to the CB bezel. Just need to figure out how to correct the mileage.
    I have disassembled CB clusters; the odometer can be removed and replaced. You might be able to take the odometer out of your cluster and install it in the BB6 cluster.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    ^ I'm thinking that muffler paint will end up sizzling off, but we'll see.


    I knew too much good was happening to me lately; I just don't have that kind of luck. I found a video that showed how to free-wheel the odometer to quickly set it wherever I wanted, which said the metal pin simply popped out of the plastic retainer... my retainer broke on both ends.

    Before I broke it, I found that I could use a precision/jewelry screwdriver to turn a gear (the black one to the right of the 9 in the photo below) and slowly increase the mileage mile by single mile. Seeing as how I had something like 80,000 miles to add to this odometer to make it correct to my chassis, that was going to take ages, so I tried doing it the 'easy' way and fucked it all up. Maybe I can get it back together and superglue the plastic to hold it in place, but my hopes aren't high. At least this cluster only cost me $30, but as with the 4th gen shifters, clusters are always gone from 5th gens in the yards. Anyone have BB6 electrical schematics to be able to tell if the automatic's speedometer is interchangeable with the manual's? I'm not sure I want to keep spending money on these when my long-term goal is for an expensive custom cluster.




    At least Monday is bringing me good news...
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 06-14-2020, 06:03 AM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Excellent work on the grille DIY and the muffler.

    And those Prelude parts are a good score. Those are becoming a rarity these days.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Went back to the same yard first thing this morning because I got the notification that they got an RL in last night. Bad luck on the calipers, though. One knuckle was completely gone from whatever accident the car was in, and while the other caliper was still there, I spaced and forgot my disposable 12pt sockets and sledge to deal with wheel locks. Ah well, brake upgrade is a long way off anyway.

    The trip wasn't a complete waste, though, as they also got a BB6 in. Nabbed the gauge cluster w/pigtails, as well as the bezel, hoping I can make a clean install with some cutting and molding to the CB bezel. Just need to figure out how to correct the mileage.




    But the best news of all is that I should finally be picking up my engine from the machine shops on Monday. I called local Heads by Drew a couple days ago and he says, "this is your week." He's been all sorts of backed up, and told me about some Subaru heads that just set him back. He's got an awesome reputation locally, though, so he's worth the wait. There's still the chance that something could come up with my head (the intake manifold surface had some gouging that needs sorted), but fingers crossed. PFI, who has my block, is unfortunately a bit of a pain to deal with. Seems the only contact is email, which they're slow to respond to, or to go down there in person. I was told they have my block back from their machinist, though. Just a re-sleeve and crank polish. I've slowed down the spending because I need to take a step back and double-check my budget; pay for the machine work first, then get back to the manual conversion, which still needs a handful of parts.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Originally posted by Daheavyking View Post
    So love the progress on the wagon!! Can't wait to get mine up and running!!
    No time like the present, if you've got as much alone time as most people these days!


    Prelude shifter assemblies must be more popular than I thought, because this took three or four manual Prelude appearances to find. It pays to assemble everything before you take it up to the counter, too: $15 for "shift linkage." Score. Anyone know if the cable bushings from a more popular car are compatible with these? I'd like to upgrade, but the options are all Civic/Integra/K-series. *ED. - never mind, I forgot about Cheddas Auto. Got those on order.

    Last edited by CyborgGT; 06-07-2020, 09:45 PM.

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