Cisco NA F22 non-VTEC SOHC Project - Full Street White

[breeziebabyyy]

I'm beyond jealous lol!! Looks nice bro.. I'll be sure to watch this thread haha

[turbo90accord]

I think your pretty broken in at this point. as long you have put it through its vaccum/ load cycles propperly you should be good. Id kinda like to see it final tuned now then again with the bisi header just to see how much is power is picked up once installed.

[foamypirate]

Yes, getting it tuned now for the rest of break-in, then permanent (as much as it can be on a car of this level) with the Bisi header would be excellent, as this would give us a nice baseline number to see how the Bisi header improves the powerband.

[Charlie240sxt]

Not sure how it would be the baseline with this setup.i would think it'd be about the most alot of guys could assume to gain.He has upped the specs on every part of the motor.

You seem to know your stuff and know the car better then us man you tell us the best route. Don't 2nd guess yourself to much but if it was me I'd also say retune then final tune would be better.

[KeeleDesign]

According to the tuner, the header will make a significant change from his standpoint. Therefore, I'd rather wait until the header is installed before doing a final tune, plus it is cheaper. I realize you all want Bisimoto's header gain numbers, but I'm not some money pit here, I can not afford to do that. My situation has changed and I don't have as much freedom with my money to invest it heavily and quickly towards my project as I did before.

In listening to the motor, it tells me the most important thing is to get it retuned as the original tune is not sufficient enough as the motor has sealed. I think I'll prepare the motor for final tune when the weather gets warmer. I'll final tune it then after the header is received and installed, that date is not known.

totally admirable,

[hatchninja]

well it's worth doing it right, i'd wait too.

[HondaFan81]

Overall I am very pleased with how this came together. I need to PM you a few things/suggestions.

Mr. Turbo is pleased? Wow. Nice seeing you around again Phil. Thanks for the suggestions, I think you are right and I'll have to upgrade again down the road before my first 9,000 rpm run. I'll probably make my own from scratch, so much cheaper that way and I can add a few neat things.

[KillerCam282]

Mr. Turbo is please? Wow. Nice seeing you around again Phil. Thanks for the suggestions, I think you are right and I'll have to upgrade again down the road before my first 9,000 rpm run. I'll probably make my own from scratch, so much cheaper that way and I can add a few neat things.

Thats a smart idea. That way its tailor-fitted to the location you choose and the size you need.

I forgot to ask you if the pan is baffled. I'd look through the thread but my pc has something against comprehensive N/A builds.

[HondaFan81]

Refresh On High Oil Pressure Issue:

My motor needs 1300 rpm minimal to idle Bisimoto's stage 3 cam. Anyhow, idle is not set 100%, so it dipped down to 800 rpm (fully warmed up) at one point and I noticed that the Autometer gauge read about 37.5 psi. Now at 1500 rpm it is at 80-85 psi. By 4000 rpm it is maxed out at 105 psi. Even at 4500 rpm it's at 105 psi and you clearly see the oil pressure relief valve working.

Remember, I have an Endyn new OEM modified oil pump and Kaizenspeed balance shaft eliminator kit. Kaizenspeed says their kit can bump pressure 10-15 psi.

Based on all the above, I don't think my oil pressure is that bad. I did not realize how much oil pressure increases from stock idle 750 to 1500 rpm. Anyhow, I feel better about all this

Also, the oil dipstick no longer pops up after some good revving of the motor, so the crankcase ventilation system/oil catch can breather seems to be working well so far (max 4000 RPM due to my tune, engine break-in).

Overheating Coolant Issue Update:

I did verify from a Honda mechanic that our cb7 cooling fans can and do operate while the vehicle is running, it is not solely the flow across the radiator that does the cooling. So fixing both cooling fans seems to have fixed that issue.

It makes sense since I drove the car 3 times back and forth from work and all was fine, the trip was only 25 miles each way, then the motor had chance to fully cool down before I ran it again. The time it got hot was when I first took it for a one hour drive, like 60 miles or more. It was consistently at 70-80 mph the whole time between 3500-3800 rpm. I also feel that as the rings sealed up, it will retain more heat in the combustion chamber and so it perhaps had an affect as well. My coolant system needs to be tip top and my tuning as well to keep the temps where they should be. I know that my tune is off right now as the motor is sealed up, so this all I think is tied together. So I await final tune.

[wed3k]

thenextazn is running 10:90, coolant:water with water wetter and his temps never go above 40%.

i poured a third of the bottle of water watter in my cb7 and never really noticed a difference however im running 50:50.

but we both live in the bay area where it never drops below 40 degrees so there isnt a real need for coolant other than the lubrication properties. what bothers me is why it oevrheated on a highway drive.

my fans also never come on but thenextazn's h22 setup, his fans are always on.

[owequitit]

use distilled bottled water.

x2

[i-07]

i love the work man!!

[HondaFan81]

thenextazn is running 10:90, coolant:water with water wetter and his temps never go above 40%.

i poured a third of the bottle of water watter in my cb7 and never really noticed a difference however im running 50:50.

but we both live in the bay area where it never drops below 40 degrees so there isnt a real need for coolant other than the lubrication properties. what bothers me is why it oevrheated on a highway drive.

my fans also never come on but thenextazn's h22 setup, his fans are always on.

Well, I was under impression that our cooling fans don't come on while driving, but that is not true apparently according to a Honda mechanic friend of mine. Anyways, I heard from one person that using Redline water wetter it seemed to make no difference either. Perhaps I will try and just use a more water concentrated mixture than coolant, see if that helps in warmer weather. I figure anything to help the motor since it is seeing higher compression that it was originally designed for.

For those stating distilled water use, I see your point. However, I admit that I've used tap water for a while with the coolant mixture at a 50/50 ratio for many years and have had no issues with corrosion on radiators. Any radiator I've replaced on my parent's cars have been do to deterioration of the radiator cooling fins, not corrosion or leaking at the seams. Anyhow, my white Accord has a brand new OEM replacement Koyo radiator on it with new thermostat and radiator hoses, everything on the motor is basically new minus a few sensors, that is all that is used. However, the few "used" sensors are known good or tested good components. Well the fan motors themselves are used, but good. The starter is good used. The battery is new, the alternator is newly remanufactured, you get the idea.

[d112crzy]

I've never had a problem running tap water either.

[NAiL05]

Probably improper mixtures causing the metal to corrode. I mean sometimes tap water might contain some minerals that arent too friendly with the metal or if you just run straight up water. I too am running tap water for now since it works and its practically easy access.