Actually turns out I bought rod bearings. Not main bearings. The photos above are main bearings. Does it look like they should be replaced? I'm going to assume yes because of the looks of them and because they are 10 years old.
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So looking at these pistons....... i'm thinking they need to be replaced. They look a little burnt on the one edge. Any thoughts folks?
Will get more pics when I get them out...
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Ya......... rings may be bad but pistons are fried. Hard to tell and doesn't matter. Ordered a new piston set w/ rings etc. Spent about 5 hours on the engine today. Cylinder walls look great. Rod bearings look fine. Crank bearings have slight wear. Debating if I should eliminate the balance shafts. Definitely have never been this far before into a tear down.
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Hmmmm…the wear in the piston looks like vaporization. It seems like you may have been experiencing detonation.Comment
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Probably hahaOriginally posted by SSMAccord View Post
It's a 10 year turbo build. I'm assuming running rich would cause this. For all I know the tuner did it, no idea.
Got a new Honda coolant temp sensor !
I also ordered the KS-Tuned balancer shafts delete kit. Kind of excited to do this delete...
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Thanks to Jacob for coming over to help today with these items. He also owns a cb7 but he's not on this forum. Some items we had to tackle...
- Move the engine block off the stand to the table so I can get access to the flywheel bolts (wish I could find the socket, been looking for two days now). I need to get the crank out which I've never done, so both ends of the engine need to come off.
- Start on getting the old hubs out of the knuckles to start on the big brake upgrade. I don't have a press so this can be a PITA!
The EBC drilled / slotted has lasted me 15 years or so and worked great!
Just beat the hell out of with a big hammer. Unfortunately the other hub has 1 stripped bolt (I didn't do it) on the backside...... not sure how to get that out yet. It's a 12point which is stripped. We were supporting the knuckle by the tabs and steering point so that the rotor drops between the two pieces of wood when hit. (not really shown below)
I will powdercoat the new calipers (and OEM rears) to Arcadian green (same color as the car). I put a lot of thought into the color and just couldn't justify any other color. Maybe red.... but the only other thing on the car that is red are the tail lights.Comment
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Does anyone know where i can get the 12-point knuckle / hub bolts? The ones that hold the bearing into the knuckle.Comment
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Working on the big brake upgrade. Knocked the old hubs out pretty easy. Spent about 3 days working these 3 screws, trying to get them out. Even cut slots into them and banged on them with a hammer and screwdriver (hitting counter clockwise) and also an air chisel. They don't budge. They are brake (rock) shield bolts. And I think they've been in here for 30 years now. I think I'll just say screw it and leave them in. Not like I'm going to spend $100 each on rock shields anyways.. I would if they were cheaper.
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Cleaning up the block
I always clear coat the rotors because sea salt in the air will rust anything where I live....
Rod bearings and crank bearings.
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Mock up time...Out with the old hubby and in with the new :P Was easy to do this actually. The axles fit in the spline, the hubs fit in the knuckle. FFC bracket works no problem.
While supplies last I picked up a set of these. My rear fenders were butchered by a body shop long ago. Nothing but filler and one side is lower than the other. Don't.... think this is something I could or want to tackle. Not sure yet.
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Where'd you get the fenders? I like to think I'd be able to keep on top of any rust that starts to appear, but it would be nice to have a pair on hand just in case.Comment
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A friend of mine works at a parts store. So he knows what suppliers still have them and who does not. He gave me a heads up that they are getting hard to find and so I told him to get me a set. It will be a long time until these get installed. I need a body shop that will install these and roll all fenders out so we can do wider tires.Comment
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KS-Tuned balance shaft delete kit. This install has me a bit nervous. There's a lot of ... silicone and JB Weld involved.
I never did find the socket I used to put these flywheel bolts on. I ordered a couple and they wouldn't fit between the bolts. I eventually grinded this socket down so it would fit.
Rear main seal has seen better days. Will order a new one. Note to self, used too much lock-tight last time...
Both ends of the engine look like a OEM sealer.
I also have to start dis-assemble of the calipers if I want them power coated. Not sure these bolts will come out....
Just waiting on the tap and cap set to start the balance shaft delete. It involves capping some oil passages in the the block and other items. Then it will be crank bearings installs and piston / ring assembly + wrist pin installs. And then rod bearings + piston installs.
I can't see me doing anything different on assembly. New seals for some areas, good Honda Bond..... and read the manual + use proper torque spec.Comment
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