Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Well...... I put insurance back on Sally and took her for a drive today. Only adjustment was I blew a intercooler pipe off and a tiny clutch adjustment. No leaks, and good to go!

    I got rid of the push button start........ !

    - Felt cheap
    - Sounded cheap
    - 1 controller box already failed
    - Getting different reactions from it (sometimes it makes no sound, sometimes it doesn't respond)

    I just can't trust it. The only thing I liked about it was the looks.



    Have to do something about these....




    Only part i liked...


    Back to being able to use a butter knife :P


    Comment


      Just took Sally for a 2 hour drive. Man...she is good to go!! No leaks, no issues. Only issue is passenger side hi-beam does not work.

      Comment


        I think the solution to the butter knife issue is having a kill circuit for the main relay. The ignition would be destroyed but the car would be intact.
        http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

        Comment


          Ya, i agree. I haven't thought up a good method yet, but I will.

          Well, took the car for another drive today. Got my first drive video ........



          I would say I have about 3-4 hours of driving on the engine after rebuild. Doesn't leak a drop, works just great, except.....

          Catch can...




          Hmmm... so problem not solved after all.



          Oil level is fine. This leads to the question, when and why do people route the catch can back to the pan. How much blow by is acceptable. I'm guessing that all engines when built have little blow by (assuming piston rings are good). As the engine wears out you'll get more and more, and may require the catch can to loop back to the oil pan or empty the can. My compression is good, but ..... I get this issue. I read online about people having good compression but also have this. I went 5 years without this issue prior. So I'll guess it's rings that need replacing or have worn a bit. Any thoughts folks?

          Comment


            That doesn't seem like a lot of time on the engine for the blow by to disappear completely. I know on all of our stock engines, there was only a tiny bit of measurable oil loss in the beginning, if any, and they typically didn't completely settle down until a few thousand miles were on the odometer. I know that handbuilt would be slightly different, but I can't imagine it not taking a small while to bed the rings, unless you specifically broke it in on a dyno.
            The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

            Comment


              This looks like a fun afternoon drive.

              I am not sure about the oil issue, it might just be a side effect of increase pressure in the crankcase. That does not explain why it started all of sudden though.
              http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

              Comment


                I know this is not what you are after, but it was a solution I personally used to bypass someone using a *butter knife* to start the vehicle:
                https://youtu.be/m8PuRKzHW30


                To prevent theft, I implemented this device as well because my setup still required a key in the ignition:
                https://youtu.be/32Dsnf01Z-c


                The above system is from this guide:
                https://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb5/forum/...ne-immobilizer
                <<< CLICK FOR MY FLICKR
                MRT
                (BOUGHT FROM)Vouch: Konigstiger, slammed4thgen, StoobyMcDooby, H22WAGON93,
                charlie0882004, rossisalvage, c mak, new_beginnings x2, King James, True-BlueCB7,
                Clean-CB7, Joshy, f20aaccordturbo, greggydrift, WilliamW, tommi, Dy2*STR33T-KING x2,
                Night Wolf, kouzie, Koochologist, remix405, Losiracer2, Hostile, CB7=91, lindiz x2, cp[mike]

                Comment


                  An electromagnetic relay is not a bad idea. And good idea to power off a key on source vs always on. And then I imagine you are simply cutting the OEM wire (fuel/ign/relay/12V, etc.) and joining it in right under the dash.
                  I once read about someone's car where you had to hold down the window switch to activate the relay that allowed things to start. I'm still thinking on this to be honest. I like the RFID idea but I need more. & let's face it, they're going to get into the car. Can't stop that.
                  I don't want to cut power 100% as I hate resetting my stereo settings
                  The battery is in the trunk, so they're not jumping battery to starter. They could bring their own battery and do that I guess
                  I did want a steering wheel quick release, but then I look like a doof carrying a wheel around. I thought about locking it to something in the car too (as long as it can't be used)
                  I was personally thinking of using the cruise control button as something but it's small AWG wire, it would need to activate a relay that allows the ignition wire under the dash to complete (for the key turn)

                  I will say currently there's no way i can leave the car alone. I think one could break in to it and start it with a fish...


                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                    An electromagnetic relay is not a bad idea. And good idea to power off a key on source vs always on. And then I imagine you are simply cutting the OEM wire (fuel/ign/relay/12V, etc.) and joining it in right under the dash.
                    I once read about someone's car where you had to hold down the window switch to activate the relay that allowed things to start. I'm still thinking on this to be honest. I like the RFID idea but I need more. & let's face it, they're going to get into the car. Can't stop that.
                    I don't want to cut power 100% as I hate resetting my stereo settings
                    The battery is in the trunk, so they're not jumping battery to starter. They could bring their own battery and do that I guess
                    I did want a steering wheel quick release, but then I look like a doof carrying a wheel around. I thought about locking it to something in the car too (as long as it can't be used)
                    I was personally thinking of using the cruise control button as something but it's small AWG wire, it would need to activate a relay that allows the ignition wire under the dash to complete (for the key turn)

                    I will say currently there's no way i can leave the car alone. I think one could break in to it and start it with a fish...

                    I once ran an RFID switch for the starter too.
                    Bu the problem with our cars is, everything is high voltage.

                    I had and RFID that ran the main ground to my ECU.

                    When the chip was at the reader (hidden in the door panel at the grab handle) It activates the relay and allows ground to flow to ECU.
                    It was a flawless designed that I personally did so in the case a day comes where I am car jacked at gun point, I can simply remove the RFID chip from the reader, and take with me, or toss it and run and the car will never start.

                    The only flaw to that setup, the RFID is meant to be used momentarily and not to hold the current and keep the relay powered.
                    It burnt out the RFID system so I ditched the system and went with the immobilizer as seen in my videos above.

                    The system above, the starter signal is completely cut off from ignition switch and cut off at the starter.
                    The remote start and touchless start is wired directly into the starter with their own standalone relays.


                    I understand the frustration on having to do stereo settings, thus why I do not try to break circuitry to any other component except for main relay or ECU.

                    I chose those 2 because they are critical in the vehicle starting.
                    When I got into electrical (self taught and trial and error, no education to back it up) I started with the basics of learning a relay.
                    Then I thought deep into people doing swaps and running into issues of no crank and no start.
                    Most people go after a 12v source for doing a kill switch.
                    I thought, most times, when people do a swap, they cant get it to crank or get it to crank and not start.
                    Most answers to the people with the issues is, check ground.
                    Thermostat ground.

                    Then it all clicked.

                    Break ground to prevent starting lol.
                    Once you learn the grounds, theres so many other grounds you can break that will prevent a vehicle from starting.
                    I started with the main ones, and have found a few other, single wire, and can be totally hidden.

                    ECU because as long as you are not running a stock ECU where the basemap adjusts based on driving, theres no worries of a reset or loss of power when on a tune.

                    If you like to smash some ideas and brainstorm a kit designed specifically for you, let me know, I have tried a thing or two in the past and still have a few tricks up my sleeves.
                    <<< CLICK FOR MY FLICKR
                    MRT
                    (BOUGHT FROM)Vouch: Konigstiger, slammed4thgen, StoobyMcDooby, H22WAGON93,
                    charlie0882004, rossisalvage, c mak, new_beginnings x2, King James, True-BlueCB7,
                    Clean-CB7, Joshy, f20aaccordturbo, greggydrift, WilliamW, tommi, Dy2*STR33T-KING x2,
                    Night Wolf, kouzie, Koochologist, remix405, Losiracer2, Hostile, CB7=91, lindiz x2, cp[mike]

                    Comment


                      Yep, and you're getting into power vs. ground fed electrical components or what it takes to complete the circuit. I know some electrical from school long ago but couldn't tell you (for example) what relays to use in this situation with the wires involved carrying either high amps or heavy gauge (ignition wires). I'd have to research it. I do have an old alarm / remote start tied into my ignition wires from a long ago install so I can always splice into these if needed.
                      But ya I'm still not sure what I want to do yet. I think if I were to go your route I'd go with RFID over magnet just for the ease of carrying it around.

                      Comment


                        The problem with our vehicles being high current, when the starter cranks, it draws so much power that most of the electronics in the vehicle gets a lower voltage.
                        And with that, if there is a relay tied in, the voltage drop may be too low to cause it to not latch and the circuit remains broken and the vehicle cannot start.
                        (That issue i encountered with the RFID pulling a relay for the start signal. Another situation is the touchless arming and disarming switch, voltage drops and cuts the circuit for the ground for the relay/ECU causing a no start too)

                        Was not practical for everyday use if the battery voltage is too low during crank.

                        I have yet to come up with a new system, but I will say, it is in the works.

                        I am planning on building a few plug and play kill switch units, that requires the magnet, but I have yet to get the plugs and look into schematics to bypass the toggle switch.
                        And also a way to not have the relays have a draw while the vehicle is off. (referring to the Immobilizer thread)
                        <<< CLICK FOR MY FLICKR
                        MRT
                        (BOUGHT FROM)Vouch: Konigstiger, slammed4thgen, StoobyMcDooby, H22WAGON93,
                        charlie0882004, rossisalvage, c mak, new_beginnings x2, King James, True-BlueCB7,
                        Clean-CB7, Joshy, f20aaccordturbo, greggydrift, WilliamW, tommi, Dy2*STR33T-KING x2,
                        Night Wolf, kouzie, Koochologist, remix405, Losiracer2, Hostile, CB7=91, lindiz x2, cp[mike]

                        Comment


                          I hooked up S300 today and made some low end fuel adjustments. Just to level out the A/F during low rpm. I also set the rpm max at 7500 for all gears. Then took her for another 2 hour drive today. Did some burnouts. Works flawless! No leaks, a/f is fine, low Temps.

                          Didn't really collect much oil vs the last time and I was harder on her. I don't know the answer for the oil but I'll assume piston rings. The more they wear out the more oil pressure is in the head pushing oil out the pcv.

                          She definitely needs better brakes. Or I also probably have air in the lines now. Pedal goes kind of far to engage and .... not instant. Not like a new car where your toe can do it. And also high speed steady braking l... it doesn't grab harder the longer you hold the brakes on. One day....
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                            I seriously need to learn how to tune, so I can adjust my maps accordingly. I have to get a map made for 91 octane since they don’t have E-85 or 93 here in my area
                            ~Nick~
                            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                            Comment


                              Ya, me too. For a 91 octane tune you need a dyno. You're basically making a whole new fuel map at that point and you need to run through the gears to get all the data plots mapped out. I'm just adding / removing fuel from the low end fuel table in small percentages. The table tells me what to do really. Used the below video. But in reality the tune shouldn't have to change, most likely a bad IACV or old parts that cause the inconsistencies...

                              Comment


                                In the last car vid the cig. lighter thing wouldn't work. Sometimes a cable gets unplugged. This time nope... all looked good except for the cigg. lighter unit itself. Time to take it apart!

                                WTF is this tom-foolary. What was Honda thinking when they did this one. All of this was mashed in the plastic holder unit. Like a spring style power transfer...







                                I had cut away most of the V metal plug on the cigg lighter so that it fit into the female end of a crimp end. Attached and taped it off. All fixed.


                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X