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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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    And finally got the right part. 26 teeth vs. the smaller 20 tooth one. Believe I have all the parts now and can put Sally back together again


      Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
      And finally got the right part. 26 teeth vs. the smaller 20 tooth one. Believe I have all the parts now and can put Sally back together again

      What is this about the water pump tooth?

      I been fighting a over heating issue for the longest time.
      I want to believe it has something to do with the pump now too, after reading your post about the 20 tooth vs 26 tooth.

      What are the part numbers, and what makes them different ?

      I am using a manual tensioner conversion for my kit.



        Soooo..... ya. The pulley wheel (outside) tooth count is different, but the inside blade count is the same. But a different shape, & obviously with a smaller outside wheel (less teeth) it would spin faster. Not sure why the h22 engine would have different sizes / speed of water pumps...... anywho...

        H22 Small pulley (20 tooth)

        Different design blades / 7 blades

        H22A Large pulley (26 tooth)

        Mine = OEM. Prob good thing I replaced it

        The 20 tooth one was listed as:
        Honda 19200-P14-A01
        Water Pump (Yamada)
        1992-1996 Honda Prelude 19200P14A01 (but it's for the H22A1 or maybe H23)

        The 26th tooth one was listed as:
        Honda 19200-P13-003

        But I can see the confusion. When you look up H22 it always gives you the first 20 tooth part.

        back to Sally...
        I did get the water pump replaced and all parts installed, some lock tight and bolts torqued.

        Water pump missing part.... glad it's fixed.

        I even got the transmission back on...

        This was the easiest I've ever done it. A block at the base just the right height so it centers up. Use the jack and wood to tilt it up and in. Lift with arms if needed. Slid right in!

        I always question the tightness...
        Last edited by Raf99; 05-27-2022, 07:14 PM.


          Well can't have the valve cover looking like this....

          Clean it up a bit. Always wanted to do a cool design on the valve cover but they always come off as cheesy..

          I now buy the ... velco type electrical tape for all my wires. Use it where I can to replace the gross sticky goo old electric tape..(dam i hate that stuff)

          There's no easy way to make this mess pretty, but it's pretty organized.

          Ready to go back in..


            Thanks to Jacob for coming over and man-handling this beast into the car. Always a tight squeeze even with the IACV and crank pulley off, and if you don't have it at the right angle it gets stuck Always end up bending the piece up by the firewall too, luckily it's easy to bend back.


              Nice. I switched to a cloth-style electrical tape when I was messing with my harness as well. Not only is it nicer to work with from a 'feeling' standpoint, but it looks a lot nicer too, imo. How long has your block been painted? I was considering painting mine during the build, but was worried about it flaking off over time and looking worse than if I had just left it alone. That is a beautiful engine assembly; the matching valve cover is a nice touch, too.

              Accord Aero-R


                Thanks. I always debated on what to do with the valve cover. Thought one day I'd just meet some amazing spray brush artist and boom. Meh.
                Blocks been painted for a while now, more than a year. And easy too. Even now if there's a spot scratched or paint chip I just give it a spray/squirt. There's no shine, so it just blends in again. But ya, buy the VHT high temp paint too obviously (engine paint hi-temp grey).


                  This thread and your progress is the reason I find myself randomly searching for another clean shell to build.
                  The Lord watches over me!

                  "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

                  - D. Chappelle


                    Shit man, I appreciate it so here's an updated photo for ya ! Wow... so much to do....

                    - Connect crank pulley. (forgot you had to lower the engine down, ug...). Done / put engine back up.
                    - Forgot crank pulley tool requires engine to be lowered. Ug.. lowered engine.
                    - Need axes in before trans fluid.... ugg Put axles (which requires dismantling suspension etc.) done.
                    - Filled the tranmission with fluid
                    - Put turbo manifold on
                    - Put turbo on and connect oil / coolant and return line to oil pan
                    - Fill engine with oil
                    - Connect power steering and alternator belts
                    - Connect fuel hoses, injectors, connectors and dizzy duds with floogle fids

                    ..... soooo.... exhaust on ... radiator, fill with coolant......and maybe start without the intercooler on. Circulate some oil first of course and then see if she starts up. I'll get a vid I remember.

                    What I'm not looking forward to is dismantling the interior just to run the jdm fog light pole button.


                      Ok.. Almost time to start the show...

                      We have to stuff all of this under the dash (drivers side) and plug in 3 power plugs and test the JDM bumper pole. (two of the plugs are already taken by my rear JDM light and A/F gauge)
                      And the button needs to go in the center console which kind of sucks as I need to remove the center console or somehow run that wire...

                      I need to get more coolant. Sigh*... always need more coolant. Then I guess I'll see what happens when she turns over without fuel. If no noises will give it some fuel and see what happens. This ....... all after...

                      - engine out
                      - converted to a auto tensioner system with new style manual tensioner
                      - changed timing belt and all accessory belts
                      - changed cam gear seals
                      - changed oil pan seal
                      - changed water pump
                      - re-sealed transmission housing


                        Sure enough... i go to start sally and the one thing that didn't work was the Jordan Push Button start. Simply had no power. Not sure why. Has 12V going to the "box/ecu" but that's it. I wrote them to see what they say.
                        Sooo used the old key to get the job done.

                        Start with fuel off.

                        Start with fuel.

                        2nd start and purr. lol... still has head noise clatter.

                        looking good....​

                        Have a jolly old oil leak over by the trans..... newb mistake.... let's fix it. Took the pan off and used some sealant along with the gasket, focused on that end / corners.


                        All done... I'll let it cure and then test again.

                        If all good then we'll put the traction bars / wheels back on and see if she moves. Next would be the bumper and JDM bumper pole install fini...
                        Last edited by Raf99; 06-24-2022, 02:25 PM.


                          Sounds like a promising start minus the oil leak. Sucks to hear about the start button, hopefully they will send you a new one to replace it.


                            They replied to my email pretty quick and verified my address, but didn't say they were sending one. I emailed them again today, we'll see what they say.
                            And still have that oil leak, but just a tiny tiny bit. Should of used more sealant on that end of the pan with the bow in it. Also have an exhaust leak but that's just a gasket.
                            Now I have to put the whole front end together which takes a long time...


                              I asked them for an update and bud said they shipped one last week. Very fast supportive response and didn't question anything. Good news there!

                              but.... this also leads me to believe they are aware of the issue and just throw units at people now for a fix. That = bad news. If the new one works we can rip open the old one and see if its chinese crap on the insides....