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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post

    I am dying to do a MR2 convert. But the cheapest pump i can find is $400 - $500 or more! There was a guy on here long ago who did it, this was a pic i saved.

    That is my setup lol. It has proven to be reliable, considering I only drive it 2000 miles a year or so. The wiring is fairly straightforward, there is a way to wiring in the error light as well.

    The pump is kinda bulky considering the 3 point mounting, but you could mount it in the trunk and run the lines to and from the rack? That would kinda leave the cooler to be figured out.

    JDMACCORD who posts here as well as IG is working on a fully electric setup that mounts under the dash and does away with the hydraulic component all together. It is a work in progress, but looks promising.
    http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

    Comment


      So SSM, are you scared of the electric power steering ripping the wheel from your hands if it malfunctioned ?

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        Ok, here's what I got and this will do fine, better than no cooler at all. I tried and tried to make it work on the right side where this open space was behind the grill. But no way. It was too high up, forcing you to make the lowest portion of the res. higher. Wasn't happening!
        Thought about moving that piece of metal, but ahhh na. Didn't want to give air the chance to take the path of least resistance. So....

        Cooler goes behind rad on the bottom and gets used air. Could put in middle of rad but want to keep it away from exhaust.


        Lines loop around away from exhaust. and will meet up with the inlet and outlet lines you see on the right.


        Res goes here. Line from rack goes above alternator and below tubing. Line from cooler goes in the same spot. Extra protection on the hoses against heat.





        I .. can't see any issues with this setup. It's almost identical to the OEM setup. The one issue I can see which I should of corrected is that the line coming from the rack technically should be 1/2" ID vs 3/8" ID. Not sure if having two hoses merge to one is affected by not having a larger hose here. Not that it matters as the cooler is 3/8" ID. Yet the res and honda pump connections are 1/2" . Almost like I should be using a 1/2" hose from the two hoses joined at the rack. But meh...... I think it's just low pressure return.


        Oh SSM, forgot you had that power steering setup. Won't pick your brain on it yet, but obviously it's just a pump with a voltage all wired into the speed sensor. Kind of got me thinking, couldn't one just ANY electric pump? Why are folks using the MR2?

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          Big shout out to Jacob finding these hidden gems! I have not had time to look these over yet.

          Comment


            Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
            So SSM, are you scared of the electric power steering ripping the wheel from your hands if it malfunctioned ?
            Not at all, the failure state is that the pump would not work or not produce pressure. If there was a pressure situation, the pump doesn't put out enough pressure to take control of the wheel and would likely just cause fluid to spill out of one of the low pressure hose fittings.

            Also due to the way that I installed it, the pump powers down when the vehicle is at speed and also has a standalone on/off switch.

            I have seen powersteering issues that cause the wheel to turn to one direction on its own which is frightening, I encountered this when I was running the H22 pump and air was trapped in the system.
            http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

            Comment


              I think the MR2 pump is typically mentioned because it was one of the only EHPS pumps around when people started doing that mod way back when. Today they are kinda impractical as they are quite rare and expensive because of that, luckily EHPS is much more common now. There are similar pumps available from Volvo, Nissan and many others that operate the same way. There are a few of these pumps that are larger and bulkier than the MR2 or Volvo pumps which makes them not as great for finding space for it.
              http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

              Comment




                The rails on these are garbage. Rusted, one of them appears to be the F-series rails. They are already cut..... and missing plastic pieces. BUT.... the fabric section is in good shape! Only part with an issue is the drivers seat where people rubbed on the corner.

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                  wow. been awhile since i have seen your pics. it's come long quite a bit. later.
                  Avoiding dirt at all costs

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                    Originally posted by TypeG View Post
                    wow. been awhile since i have seen your pics. it's come long quite a bit. later.
                    ya man. Thanks for stopping by !

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                      OK. Car runs like shit and figured it was the timing, so I went out and got a timing light gun. OK, fixed that! Set the gun to 15deg and then used the cam lines. Seemed obvious where it should be judging by the sound of the engine too. First time I did it and glad I got over that hump ! But car still ran like crap. Stalling, low idle, rich......... all the symptoms pointed to what I though... off a tooth....

                      Upper marks were good..


                      Bottom was not so good




                      Tried fixing this but could not get the belt back on . As CyborgGT noted the H23 manual timing belt mod is super tight! Like way way too tight! And as of this point I can't get the belt back on (with the engine in). Not that I want it back on anyways. Look at this crap ......



                      Tensioner I have...



                      So i was all set to order the K tuned / 1320 kit but then noticed I don't even have the parts for the auto tensioner anymore (the bolt that goes in the block and the pivot arm, etc.). Sooooo not quite sure what to do at this moment. Anyone have the parts I need?

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                        Ya... well after reading all night I guess I'm going to stick with this h23 setup. Honda-tech and other websites talking about how the belt should be tight and a huge PITA to put on. Harder with the engine in the bay.
                        Not sure I want to pay hundreds of dollars for the auto setup from the dealership (assuming they have it). Anyone know what's up with this style tensioner? Looks not legit.

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                          OK......... Well . Ug. There was definitely some blood and sweat going into Sally.

                          I read some posts on prelude forums and figured out that if you just put the belt half on , for the tensioner / water pump / exhaust cam, it will slide on. Sooo fought with that all day started it and timing issue solved! But.... ...... ug....... timing belt squeal !!! BAAA . While the manual timing belt tensioner is great, it sucks trying to set it so everything is happy.

                          Sooo let's take it all apart again. Let the tension off and just tightened the bolt. The dam belt is tight enough as it is. But this is all pretty dam frustrating! Takes hours to do this... ug. I think this is try #4 of doing the timing ........ I guess practice makes perfect.

                          Made a vid



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                            I was too weak to persist, I guess. I tried putting mine partially onto each pulley at first, too, but I could never loosen the belt enough to have it not be a pain.

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                              I started the car today and made sure all is well. Runs great! I see by the cams the timing is off maybe a hair.... but not even sure what it should be. I set it to 15deg. I can't figure out why the "Set Timing" option in SManager is greyed out. So I can't see what the tuner set it to. But still runs great! I can still hear a tiny bit of belt squeal, but F-that. I'm not taking it apart again, i think i'm imagining things now too. Tonight I spent another few hours putting her back together and finishing the power steering cooler setup. Tomorrow I'll fill it and test it. ... if still no leaks then...

                              - headlights in and test
                              - bumper on and test all lights
                              - new front grill ....
                              - front wheels on.... and see if the transmission works
                              - go for a short drive
                              - check for leaks, clutch adjustment?
                              - car needs a wash too

                              ... and not to mention the original original problem (catch can filling with oil). Did our valve seal job work?

                              Location of the cooler


                              Lines go through here. Ya... left over pieces :P All gets tucked in there. Extra padding added where needed.


                              Over the ALT with extra protection. The proper way to do this is to run the lines around on the body with proper clamps, etc. Meh.


                              Fini. The PS reserve is now higher than all the other PS lines in the system, should work great.



                              And....... if all of that is working no problem, then we are working on the push start DIY. Ohh exciting.

                              Comment


                                What's that white thing hanging out between the clutch slave and radiator for? Looks like a vacuum check valve?

                                Push start sounds cool. Going with OEM that still requires a key, or a full-on modern system?

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