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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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    Just the radiator overflow hose / cap; i was cleaning it out, so just dangling there. Push button will be no key required. 100% positive that my ignition is super f00ked and I could start the car with a stick. The downfall here is no steering lock capability, but don't need it. We'll have more info coming soon.


      this is all lookin great! Push button is nice, only thing that is kind of annoying, is in order to turn on ACC, or start car you have to push in the brake. Again not a big deal, just different. Praying you have no leaks and the oil issue is resolved.
      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
      MR Thread:


        Thanks man, always appreciate ya stopping by of course! Only thing stopping this car from being put together is the fender washers/bolts I seem to have lost.


          Well... I have to admit I'm a little stumped on this one.

          Issue: Passenger side high beam does not work.

          What i determined so far:
          - Getting 3.3V at all times, although drivers side gets 12V (3.3V = DRL)
          - It's not my 10+ year old crimp job / re-did it.
          - It's not the bulb in the headlight, tested with 12V source
          - Getting 12V at the fuse box, for both high beams. (on both sides of the fuse)

          All this work got me 0.7V haha...

          I did this when connection probably 15 years ago.

          Even though it tested fine, I'm not going to leave it like that. Solder time.

          DOH! lol


            Sooo........ still digging into this and not looking good. I cut back to the original OEM wire as much as I could and still not getting proper voltage. Soooo back to the basics of a continuity test.

            Ya'll know how this works. Ohm test a wire and the resistance is X value. With no connection we get a OL on the meter.

            Not touching

            Longer wire test

            My high beam wire...

            For comparison, the low beam plug wire

            Looking into the electrical diagram for couple days and from what i can tell it's not a ground wire or IC, DRL etc. All of those components share it with the other headlight. No other reason but a cut wire somewhere and the resistance is not in spec.... so time to start digging. Ug... Please don't make me pull the dash.


              Well...... I hope I'm wrong on all of this, but so far Sally is simply disappointing me. The simply fix of a passenger side headlight not working has turned into a fuse box issue...... i think.
              I was trying to figure out why I was not getting full 12V to that wire. So I figured it was cut along the way.... but digging and digging, I wasn't even getting the 12V at the fuse box!

              All looks fine with the wire...

              So technically we should be able to measure resistance through the fuse box. I know some power leads connect to others but we should still be able to do this. Everything I know and read in the manual tells me that fuse #37 connects to pin#1 for the RED-BLU wire.


              Testing on the drivers side high beam fuse / wire location

              Grrr Sally. WTF/. Gone to fine my spare fuse box.........


                Having spent forever chasing electrical gremlins like that, I'd just add an aftermarket headlight subharness, triggered by the side that you know is working.

                - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                Current cars:
                - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion


                  Ya... i don't know what's going on here yet. Tried another fuse box and does the same. .......


                    Ok. This was solved. It was the DRL module. You can read about the post I created here asking for help.